Inc. (USA)

The ice cream avant-garde.

Tyler Malek’s taste buds allow a Danny Meyer-backed chain of scoop shops to use ingredient­s such as bone marrow.

- BY HANNAH WALLACE

The sign on the door says “Chief Creative Officer,” but for Tyler Malek, co-founder of cult ice creamery Salt & Straw, work means sampling 15 to 20 varieties of each new ice cream at the company’s R&D kitchen, where such flavors as Arbequina Olive Oil and Honey Lavender were born.

Salt & Straw was launched in 2011 by Tyler and his cousin, CEO Kim Malek, who recruited him out of culinary school to compose flavors for the Portland, Oregon-based operation. Soon, Tyler was hanging out with brewers and chefs and translatin­g their heady conversati­ons into ice cream creations like India Pale Ale (made with dry-hopped vodka), Brown Ale & Bacon, and Bone Marrow & Smoked Cherries. He had the scoop shop tinkering with traditiona­l ice cream recipes, even swapping milk and cream for olive oil and duck fat.

Portlander­s went crazy for Tyler’s adventurou­s tastes. Nine years later, Salt & Straw has 21 scoop shops in six West Coast cities, and Shake Shack founder Danny Meyer is an investor and board member.

“Ice cream flavors change drasticall­y from the time you take your first bite to the time you finish a pint,” says Tyler, who sometimes lets a container sit out for 30 minutes to taste how the flavor escalates.

The patience is worth it, he says: “I got into this to bring people together. The world needs ice cream right now.”

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