IN LIV­ING COLOR How to get what you want at the sa­lon ac­cord­ing to four of Hol­ly­wood’s top hair col­orists


InStyle (USA) - - Directory - BY MARCI ROBIN

As any­one who has gone from blond to brunet (or vice versa) can at­test, hair col­orists possess a lot of power. It’s hard to pull off an over­all look if your sig­na­ture shade has gone brassy. Col­orists are es­sen­tially the beauty in­dus­try’s ver­sion of im­pres­sion­ist painters who spend years mas­ter­ing brush­strokes and an in­tri­cate bal­ance of tones so that your locks are tinged to your lik­ing. And since in­di­vid­ual flour­ishes make each col­orist unique, it’s im­por­tant that you do your home­work be­fore your first ap­point­ment. Here, four in-de­mand Hol­ly­wood col­orists ex­plain how you can find the pro who is right for you and what to ask for once you do.


If you’re on the hunt for a new col­orist, don’t be shy about ap­proach­ing some­one whose hair catches your eye. “Ev­ery­one loves a com­pli­ment, so if you pass by a stranger with beau­ti­ful hair color, walk up to her and ask her who does it,” says Rita Hazan, who works with Bey­oncé and Jes­sica Simp­son. Or, if real-life peo­ple-watch­ing doesn’t yield any leads, “check out the Instagram feeds of a few cool sa­lons in your area to see which pho­tos you grav­i­tate to­ward,” sug­gests Lorri Goddard, Rosie Hunt­ing­ton­white­ley’s and Reese Wither­spoon’s col­orist. When you spot a look you like, check to see if the col­orist is tagged or men­tioned in the caption, then go to that pro’s feed to browse more of his or her work. “You’ll get a sense pretty quickly of whether this per­son has the vibe and aes­thetic you like,” says Goddard.

After you’ve homed in on some­one whose work in­trigues you, con­tact the sa­lon to find out what they charge. “If it’s be­yond your bud­get, ask the re­cep­tion­ist if there’s a ju­nior col­orist who’s been trained by that ex­pert and does sim­i­lar color work,” says Goddard. But no mat­ter how ma­jor the pro may be, don’t dive right in with a full-color ser­vice. “Al­ways, al­ways sched­ule a con­sul­ta­tion first to be sure you both have the same vi­sion and goals for your hair, in­clud­ing how of­ten you’re will­ing to come into the sa­lon to main­tain your color and what the cost com­mit­ment will be,” says Tracey Cun­ning­ham, who counts Zoey Deutch and Jen­nifer Lopez as her clients. “It’s so im­por­tant to see first how you get along with each other. If you don’t feel like you’re speak­ing the same lan­guage, you may want to keep search­ing for some­one else.”


When you have that ini­tial sit-down, pay at­ten­tion to how at­ten­tive the col­orist is. “The per­son should ask you lots of ques­tions about your lifestyle and your hair-color his­tory and how you like to style your hair,” says col­orist Naomi Knights, who has worked with Scar­lett Jo­hans­son, Am­ber Val­letta, and Florence Pugh. “Be wary of any­one

Pho­tos are more ef­fec­tive than words at en­sur­ing you and your col­orist are on the same page.”

—Tracey Cun­ning­ham, ZOEY DEUTCH’S col­orist

who wants to skip get­ting to know you.” And dur­ing your chat, don’t skimp on the de­tails. “Tell the per­son about any hair color you’ve had in the past year—even tem­po­rary wash-out for­mu­las— along with any al­ler­gies you have and the types of color tones you like and, more im­por­tant, which ones you don’t like,” says Goddard. The pros agree that it’s of­ten eas­ier for clients to ex­plain what they don’t want as op­posed to what they do want, which is why bring­ing pho­tos also helps. “Pic­tures al­low the col­orist to see ex­actly what you’re en­vi­sion­ing, so you can dis­cuss how to make the look come to life,” says Cun­ning­ham. “They are also more ef­fec­tive than words at en­sur­ing you and your col­orist are on the same page with your goals.” And while celebrity ref­er­ences are great, per­sonal pic­tures are just as wel­come. “Bring pho­tos of your­self from a time when you loved your color, even if that’s from when you were a tod­dler,” says Goddard.


Once you have your lu­mi­nous new hue, ask your col­orist for ad­vice on how to main­tain it—and really fol­low it. “I never let a client leave with­out get­ting a post-color gloss­ing treat­ment, es­pe­cially if she’s head­ing to an event,” says Cun­ning­ham. The quick process im­me­di­ately fol­lows your dye job, “and it works won­ders to per­fect the tones and make the hair really shiny,” she says. You can also pop into the sa­lon and re­peat the ser­vice any­time you feel like your hue has be­come faded or brassy. “A gloss treat­ment can re­fresh the look of high­lights or cor­rect any un­even­ness in your shade,” says Cun­ning­ham. Ul­ti­mately, your col­orist wants to build a last­ing re­la­tion­ship with you and help evolve your look so you never feel stuck in a rut—and so you can be that head turner on the street who al­ways gets asked, “Ex­cuse me, but who does your color?”

Tell the pro which tones you like and, more im­por­tant, which ones you don’t like.”

—Lorri Goddard, REESE WITHER­SPOON’S col­orist

Be wary of any col­orist who wants to skip get­ting to know you.”

—Naomi Knights, FLORENCE PUGH’S col­orist

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