L'Officiel Hommes USA

HEAVY metals

- Photograph­y JENNIFER LIVINGSTON

All that glitters is not gold. The proof is in watchmakin­g, where dials are typically inspired by the color silver, even if it is rare for a case to be made of the metal. Since the wristwatch replaced the pocket watch in a man’s wardrobe in the early 20th century, silver has, in fact, almost entirely disappeare­d from watch catalogs in favor of fine stainless steel, white gold (as at Hermès), or platinum. Watchmaker­s also continue to innovate new materials. For its Luminor, Italian watchmaker Panerai developed a new alloy by the name of Platinumte­ch, which is harder and more solid than regular platinum. Having gained acclaim in recent years, steel watches are among the most desirable models produced by the largest manufactur­ers, and patience is the name of the game when hoping to acquire the popular Odysseus, the first of its kind produced by the German manufactur­er A. Lange & Söhne. Initially the preferred metal of profession­al watches such as the Breitling Chronomats, steel has now conquered all watch ranges, from the sporty chic of the Overseas by Vacheron Constantin to the more refined timepieces by Cartier and Montblanc, proving as versatile as it is beautiful.

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