Las Vegas Review-Journal (Sunday)

A bite of history

- 1216 W. Owens Ave., 702-539-0333, ordersoulf­ooyoung.com

While soul food now is available throughout the valley, there’s something special about sampling it in the neighborho­od where its history runs deep. These Historic Westside restaurant­s were recommende­d repeatedly as great places to eat by those who know the community.

Annie’s Kitchen: Run by husband-andwife team Bill and Annie Thompson and their family, Annie’s occupies the space that once housed the famed Chez Polle. Bill says their main reasons for opening in the historic neighborho­od were “to motivate young people that they could open a business in a Black community and be successful” and to “serve them quality food at a very inexpensiv­e price.” When it opened in 2005, customers could get an entree with sides and a drink, for as little as $5. The price has gone up only $3 in the years since. 1212 D St., 725-214-6062.

Chef Carol’s Southern Kitchen: Arkansas native Carol Hampton-Gray has been cooking in restaurant­s for over 50 years and describes herself as “a dirty Southern cook.” She offers everything from oysters, prawns and a delicate salmon filet in a light glaze to beef neck bones and chitterlin­gs, all cooked “with love and patience” and served in a refined, upscale dining room. That combinatio­n draws customers from throughout the valley, as well as tourists. Hampton-Gray promises that nobody will leave hungry. “If you don’t have enough to eat, just let me know,” the chef says. “I’m going to bring you out some more, and I’m not going to charge you for it.” 1100 N. Martin Luther King Blvd., 702-444-0696.

Gritz Café: As the name indicates, the specialty at this breakfast and lunch spot is bowls of grits, which diners can customize with their choice of meat, toppings and bread. Other house specialtie­s include chicken and waffles, catfish and waffles, biscuits and gravy, wings, catfish, hot links, pork chops and an assortment of sandwiches and po’boys. As owner Trina Jiles writes on the restaurant’s website, her goal is to “invite you to the South,” and a selection of plates named after Southern states is designed to take you on that culinary journey.

1911 Stella Lake St., 702-255-4748, gritzcafe.com.

Soul Foo Young: The Far East meets the Deep South in this fusion restaurant. Take, for example, the Bruce Leroy: three whole fried chicken wings are served with veggie fried rice. For traditiona­lists, soul food options include barbecue rib tips, fried catfish filets and smothered or fried chicken, with choice of sides such as collard greens, mac and cheese, okra and black-eyed peas. Chinese dishes also are available, including five varieties of egg foo young.

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