Las Vegas Review-Journal (Sunday)

These dishes beat the heat in the kitchen

- By Krysten Chambrot

The weather is changing but it’s still hot, and I feel so lazy.

I recently moved out of my apartment of six years, and I’ve been housesitti­ng until I find the perfect place. It’s been glorious to dote on my friends’ plants and test out neighborho­ods, but I’m never quite comfortabl­e using another person’s kitchen as intensely as I would my own. So I’ve been living a low-cook lifestyle.

I can’t recommend it enough. Outside my borrowed kitchens, there’s been fabulous onigiri from a nearby deli, gorgeous pizza and the best pasta.

Still, a woman can’t live on takeout alone. (No matter how hard she tries.) The recipes below are all perfect for the temperatur­es (high) and my energy level (low).

1. Sheet-pan feta with chickpeas and tomatoes

In a spread of Greek appetizers, or meze, there’s often a warm feta dish like bouyiourdi (baked feta with tomato and hot peppers) or a saganaki (fried cheese). This recipe combines elements of these two classic appetizers into a sheet-pan meal. Softened feta provides a salty, creamy counterpoi­nt to sweet, juicy tomatoes and chickpeas that are sticky from honey and spicy from dried chile. Try this version, then riff wildly: Switch out tomatoes for mini peppers, olives, dates or cauliflowe­r. Swap the hot honey for anchovies, harissa, smoked paprika or turmeric. Eat with pita, grains, salad greens, hummus or yogurt.

By Ali Slagle

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 40 minutes Ingredient­s:

3 cups cooked chickpeas (homemade or two 15-ounce cans), drained, rinsed and shaken dry 2 pints (16 to 20 ounces) cherry or Sungold tomatoes

1 shallot, thinly sliced

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoon­s honey

1 teaspoon mild chile flakes (like gochugaru) or 1/2 teaspoon red-pepper flakes

Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

2 (6- to 8-ounce) blocks of feta (see tip), sliced 1-inch-thick Preparatio­n:

1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. On a baking sheet, stir together the chickpeas, tomatoes, shallot, olive oil, honey and chile flakes. Season with salt, then spread in an even layer. Arrange the feta among the chickpeas. Roast until the feta and tomatoes are soft and the chickpeas are golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes (no need to stir). Eat right away. (The feta will harden as it cools; reheat leftovers.)

Tip: Avoid feta made with cow’s milk, which does not have enough fat to withstand roasting.

2. Cheesy kimchi noodles

Instant ramen ranks highly among comfort foods because it can be quickly prepared and those little seasoning packets provide lots of flavor with minimal effort. No packets are used in this recipe, but the addition of gooey, melted Cheddar and funky fermented kimchi makes the dish even more satisfying. Sautéed scallions and garlic balance out the spicy Sriracha, soy and sesame sauce, while the runny yolk from a crispy fried egg adds richness and mellows the spice. The cheese becomes sticky as it cools, so these noodles are best served immediatel­y while still warm and glossy.

By Lara Lee

Yield: 2 servings

Total time: 20 minutes Ingredient­s:

For the noodles:

6 ounces dried instant noodles (see tip)

1 1/2 tablespoon­s canola oil, plus more for coating cooked noodles 2 eggs

5 scallions, thinly sliced on the diagonal (reserve 1 tablespoon for garnish)

1/2 (packed) cup kimchi, sliced 3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

1 tablespoon black (or white) sesame seeds, plus more for garnish 1/2 cup grated cheddar

For the sauce:

2 tablespoon­s Sriracha

1 to 2 tablespoon­s soy sauce 1 tablespoon sesame oil 1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine Preparatio­n:

1. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil over high. Add the noodles and cook according to the package instructio­ns until tender but still springy, about 2 to 3 minutes.

Transfer to a colander and rinse in cold water until cool, then toss with a splash of canola oil to prevent the noodles from sticking together. Set cooked noodles aside.

2. Meanwhile, prepare the sauce: In a small bowl, whisk the Sriracha, soy sauce, sesame oil and Shaoxing wine; set aside.

3. Set a medium nonstick skillet over high heat. Add 1/2 tablespoon canola oil and, once shimmering, crack in the eggs. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the whites are done and the edges are browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

4. In the same skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon canola oil over medium-high. Add the scallions, kimchi, garlic and sesame seeds, and cook for 1 minute until just softened, stirring frequently. Add the noodles and sauce, and toss to combine for 1 minute. Stir in the grated cheese until it melts. Turn off the heat.

5. Transfer the noodles to serving plates, top with the fried eggs and garnish with extra sesame seeds and scallions. Serve immediatel­y. Tip: If you can’t find plain instant ramen noodles, you can also use two individual 3-ounce ramen packages, discarding the flavor sachets or saving them for another use.

3. Grilled salmon salad with lime, chiles and herbs

Made of soft, supple salmon; crisp lettuces and vegetables; and a very savory dressing run through with chiles and lime, this light salad is tangy and full of flavor. The

dressing, based on nuoc cham, a traditiona­l Vietnamese dipping sauce, has just enough fish sauce to give it depth and pungency without overpoweri­ng the brightness of the lime. You can substitute other fish, or even chicken, for the salmon. Just adjust the grilling time as needed, and toss with the dressing while still warm. Note that if you don’t have a grill, you can roast the fish in the oven.

By Melissa Clark

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 30 minutes Ingredient­s:

2 limes

2 small fresh red or green chiles or 1 large one, thinly sliced, seeds removed if you like

1 shallot (or 2 scallions, or 2 tablespoon­s red onion), thinly sliced 2 tablespoon­s fish sauce Kosher salt

Pinch of sugar

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil or grapeseed oil, plus more for brushing

1 1/4 pounds salmon fillet, preferably 1 large center-cut piece

8 cups salad greens, such as Little Gem, bibb or Boston lettuce

1 cup mixed soft herbs (such as cilantro, mint and basil), leaves and tender stems

1 cup thinly sliced radishes, cucumbers or both (optional) Preparatio­n:

1. Light the grill for indirect heat, or heat the oven to 450 degrees.

2. As the grill or oven heat up, make the dressing: Halve 1 lime, and squeeze its juice into a small bowl. Add the chile slices, half of the sliced shallot (save the rest for serving), the fish sauce and a pinch each salt and sugar. Let sit for 1 minute to dissolve the salt, then whisk in the olive oil. It won’t emulsify, so mix again before using.

3. Brush the salmon with oil, and place it in a grilling basket if you have one. Cook over the indirect (unlit) side of the grill, for 2 to 5 minutes per side, depending on how hot the grill is and how thick the salmon is. Note that individual fillets will cook faster than a single large piece. Check the salmon often. (Alternativ­ely, roast the salmon on a baking sheet in the oven, until just cooked to taste, 7 to 12 minutes; you don’t have to flip it.)

4. As the salmon cooks, halve the other lime. Brush the cut sides with olive oil and grill, cutside down, over direct heat until charred, about 1 minute. If using the oven, throw the halves, cutside up, on the roasting pan with the salmon. They won’t char, but they will cook and mellow in flavor, which is the aim.

5. When the salmon is cooked, transfer it to a plate and spoon some dressing over it. Let it cool slightly, then break up the fish into large chunks.

6. Place greens, remaining shallots, herbs, and radishes or cucumber, if using, in a large shallow bowl or on a platter, and add a little more of the dressing. Squeeze some of the juice from a charred lime half over it and drizzle with a little olive oil. Toss and taste, adding lime juice, olive oil or salt as needed.

7. Top with the salmon chunks and drizzle with more (or all) of the dressing. Serve with the remaining charred lime half on the side for squeezing.

4. Five-minute hummus

Michael Solomonov and Steven Cook of the Philadelph­ia restaurant Zahav found success with their hummus recipe, but in their second book, “Israeli Soul,” the two came up with this smart version, done in a fraction of the time of the original. It’s just as satisfying, and packed with tahini flavor, a given since it calls for a whole 16-ounce jar. The end result is nutty and smooth, and topped with roasted vegetables, a worthy weeknight meal. Recipe from Michael Solomonov and Steven Cook Adapted by Krysten Chambrot Yield: 4 generous cups

Total time: 5 minutes Ingredient­s:

1/4 garlic clove

Juice of 1 lemon, about 1/4 cup 1 (16-ounce) jar tahini

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 to 1 1/2 cups ice water 2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed

Preparatio­n: 1.

Drop the 1/4 garlic clove into a food processor and add the lemon juice. Pour the tahini on top, making sure to scrape it all out of the container, and add the salt and cumin. Process until the mixture looks peanut-buttery, about 1 minute. Stream in the ice water, a little at a time, with the motor running. Process just until the mixture is smooth and creamy and lightens to the color of dry sand.

2. Add the chickpeas and process for about 3 minutes, scraping the sides of the bowl as you go, until the chickpeas are completely blended and the hummus is smooth and uniform in color.

 ?? RYAN LIEBE / THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? Sheet-pan feta with chickpeas and tomatoes is a simple dish to try when it’s just too hot out. Some lighter recommenda­tions embrace tomatoes and feta, cheesy kimchi noodles, hummus plates and flavorful salmon salads.
RYAN LIEBE / THE NEW YORK TIMES Sheet-pan feta with chickpeas and tomatoes is a simple dish to try when it’s just too hot out. Some lighter recommenda­tions embrace tomatoes and feta, cheesy kimchi noodles, hummus plates and flavorful salmon salads.
 ?? DAVID MALOSH / THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? Grilled salmon salad with lime, chiles and herbs keeps the savory balanced with a light salad, and other fish work well, too.
DAVID MALOSH / THE NEW YORK TIMES Grilled salmon salad with lime, chiles and herbs keeps the savory balanced with a light salad, and other fish work well, too.

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