Las Vegas Review-Journal (Sunday)

Without some green, is dinner complete?

- By Emily Weinstein The New York Times Company

When I open the fridge to start making dinner, I reflexivel­y look for something green to add to the meal: arugula, broccoli, even a smattering of herbs or sliced scallions. Without it, dinner just feels incomplete to me. So it’s very convenient when recipes already include that green element, the cup of frozen peas or several fistfuls of chard, collards or kale. The five recipes below hit that mark.

Sheet-pan roasted chicken with greens

This one-pan meal features a bronzed bird and a pile of braised greens that are cooked unevenly to our benefit: The leaves under the chicken steam and absorb chicken juices, while those exposed to the oven’s heat brown and crisp. Use a mix of greens if you can, but either way, you’ll get a tangle of deep, dark greens so rich and soft, even the stems are edible. (And less prep work for you!)

By Ali Slagle Yield: 4 servings Total time: 1 hour Ingredient­s:

• 1 whole chicken (about 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 lbs) • Salt

• 2 large or 3 medium bunches dark leafy greens, like kale, collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, chard or broccoli raab, preferably a mix

• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

• 1/2 tsp red-pepper flakes

• 6 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled • Lemon wedges, for serving (optional)

Preparatio­n:

1. Heat the oven to 425 degrees. To butterfly the chicken, place the chicken on a cutting board, breast-side down. Using sharp kitchen shears, remove the backbone By cutting on either side of the backbone. (Freeze the backbone for stock.) Flip the chicken, setting it breast-side up, and flatten By pressing firmly in the center; you should hear a crack.

2. Pat chicken dry. Season the chicken on both sides with salt, about 1/2 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt per pound of chicken. (If time allows, refrigerat­e the chicken, uncovered, for up to 24 hours, which will lead to crisper skin and juicier meat.)

3. Using scissors or a knife, cut the tough ends off the greens, then cut in half crosswise. Transfer to a sheet pan along with 3 tablespoon­s of the olive oil, the red-pepper flakes, and a generous sprinkling of salt. Toss and squeeze the greens until coated in oil. Spread out on the sheet pan, pour over 1/2 cup water, place the garlic cloves in the center of the greens, then place the chicken on top of the garlic. Rub the remaining tablespoon oil onto the chicken skin.

4. Roast until the chicken is browned and an instant-read thermomete­r inserted in the thickest part of the thigh reads 165 degrees, 45 to 50 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board to rest at least 10 minutes. Meanwhile, stir the greens to scrape up any browned bits from the pan. Carve the chicken and pour any resting juices over the greens. Serve chicken with the greens and a squeeze of lemon if desired.

Broiled salmon and asparagus with herbs

Many people fear the broiler because they don’t know how to use it, or they’re worried they’ll overdo it and end up with a scorched dinner. But when used properly, it’s a useful tool ideal for crisping chicken skin, charring vegetables and melting cheese. Broiling is also a great method for perfectly cooking salmon: It yields a deeply browned crust and a tender center that isn’t overcooked. All broilers are different, and knowing the strength of yours and being aware of any uneven “hot spots” help maximize the efficiency of it. (As your dish cooks, look to see if it’s cooking evenly across the surface, which will tell you if you need to move things around.) In this recipe, soy-and-mustard-coated salmon and asparagus cook under the broiler, and are topped with an herb salad for a hit of brightness, freshness and acidity.

By Yasmin Fahr Yield: 4 servings Total time: 20 minutes Ingredient­s:

• 1 bunch cilantro, leaves and tender stems, roughly chopped

• 1 bunch parsley, leaves and tender stems, roughly chopped

• 1 small bunch mint or dill, leaves picked, roughly chopped

• 4 scallions, light green and white parts, sliced

• 1/4 to 1/2 tsp red-pepper flakes, according to taste

• 3 tbsp lemon juice, plus more as needed • 3 tbsp olive oil, plus more as needed

• Salt and black pepper

• 2 tbsp soy sauce

• 1 tbsp Dijon mustard

• 1 large bunch asparagus, woody ends trimmed

• 4 (4- to 6-oz) salmon fillets, at least 3/4inch thick

Preparatio­n:

1. In a medium serving bowl, toss together the herbs, scallions, red-pepper flakes, lemon juice and 2 tablespoon­s of olive oil, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Season with more lemon or oil as needed until the leaves look glossy. Set aside.

2. Heat the broiler with a rack 6 inches from the heat source.

3. In a small bowl, mix the soy sauce and mustard until smooth. Add the asparagus to a large sheet pan, toss with the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil, then season well with salt and pepper. Move the asparagus to the sides, and place the salmon skin side down in the center. Season the salmon with salt and pepper, brush the tops and sides with the soy mixture, then toss the asparagus in the rest of the soy mixture. (Use a paper towel to wipe off excess soy on the sheet pan, as it will smoke.)

4. Broil until the salmon is opaque with a deep brown crust, about 6 to 8 minutes for medium-rare, and 8 to 10 minutes for medium, depending on the strength of your broiler and the thickness of the salmon. (Reduce cooking time By 1 to 2 minutes for thinner fillets.) If it looks like it’s browning too quickly or smoking excessivel­y, move to a lower rack to finish cooking. Top the salmon and asparagus with the herb salad or serve on the side with a final round of pepper.

Saag paneer

Saag refers to an Indian vegetable dish in which spinach or other dark greens are stewed with ginger, garlic, fresh chiles and spices until meltingly soft. As the name suggests, saag paneer includes paneer, a mild Indian cheese that is firm enough to cook without melting. The heat of the serrano chiles balances the creamy richness, but for a milder dish, remove the seeds before mincing the chiles. The fresh greens are finely chopped before cooking, to help them break down faster into a silky gravy. Thawed chopped frozen spinach can be used to save time, but make sure to drain well and squeeze out the excess liquid first. Finish the dish with a little heavy cream (or plain yogurt) to lend body and richness.

By Kay Chun Yield: 4 servings Total time: 35 minutes Ingredient­s:

• 1 lb fresh baby spinach (about 8 packed cups)

• 2 tbsp ghee

• 8 pz paneer, cut into 1-by-1/2-inch pieces • 1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion • Kosher salt and black pepper

• 1 tbsp freshly grated peeled ginger (from a 2-inch piece)

• 2 tsp grated garlic (from about 3 cloves) • 1 serrano chile, stemmed and minced • 1/2 tsp ground coriander

• 1/4 tsp ground cumin

• 1/2 cup heavy cream

• Steamed rice and Indian flatbread, for serving

Preparatio­n:

1. In a food processor, working in batches, pulse spinach until minced but not puréed. Do not pack the spinach too tightly or it

won’t get evenly chopped. You should have about 3 packed cups of minced spinach.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon ghee over medium in a large nonstick skillet. When it shimmers, add paneer and cook, turning occasional­ly, until golden all over, 5 to 7 minutes. Using tongs or a fish spatula, transfer cheese to a plate, leaving as much ghee as possible in the skillet.

3. Reduce heat to medium-low, add the remaining 1 tablespoon ghee and the onion, and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasional­ly, until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes.

4. Add ginger, garlic and chile, and cook, stirring occasional­ly, until fragrant and well incorporat­ed, 1 minute. Stir in coriander and cumin until well blended.

5. Add minced spinach and 1/2 cup water, and increase the heat to medium. Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasional­ly, until spinach is completely soft and most of the liquid is absorbed, about 8 minutes.

6. Stir in heavy cream and paneer until well incorporat­ed. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl.

7. Divide rice and flatbread among 4 shallow bowls or plates. Pass the saag paneer to spoon on top.

Baked risotto with greens and peas

This easy baked risotto eliminates the constant stirring required in traditiona­l risotto recipes. It’s laden with vegetables, namely kale and spinach, but other leafy greens like Swiss chard or collard greens would work equally well. If you happen to have some extra asparagus, sub it in for the peas. This risotto makes a great starter or side dish, but you can also turn it into a vegetarian main course By using vegetable or mushroom stock in place of the chicken broth, and topping it with sautéed mushrooms, a fried egg or crispy tofu slices. Leftovers can be refrigerat­ed for two days and reheated with more broth, or repurposed into crunchy rice cakes or arancini. Simply form into patties or balls, coat in breadcrumb­s and shallow-fry until golden and crunchy.

By Kay Chun Yield: 4 servings Total time: 30 minutes Ingredient­s:

• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

• 1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion

• 1 small garlic clove, minced

• 1 cup Arborio rice (about 7 ounces) • Kosher salt and black pepper

• 4 oz green or lacinato kale (about 1/3 bunch), stems separated and thinly sliced, leaves stacked and cut into 1/4-inch-thick ribbons (about 4 packed cups)

• 3 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth

• 4 oz baby spinach (about 4 packed cups) • 1 cup frozen peas, thawed

• 3/4 cup grated Parmesan (3 ounces), plus more for garnish

• 3 tbsp unsalted butter

• 1 tbsp lemon juice

Preparatio­n:

1. Heat oven to 375 degrees. In a large Dutch oven, heat oil over medium. Add onion and cook, stirring occasional­ly, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add garlic and stir until fragrant, 1 minute. Add rice, season with salt and pepper, and stir until coated in oil and lightly toasted, 2 minutes. 2. Add kale, season with salt and pepper, and stir until wilted, 30 seconds. Add broth and bring to a boil over high heat.

3. Cover and bake until almost all of the liquid is absorbed and rice is tender, about 20 minutes.

4. Stir in spinach and peas until spinach is wilted. Add Parmesan, butter and lemon juice, and stir until well blended and saucy. (Liquid will continue to absorb as risotto sits.) Season with salt and pepper. Serve in bowls and top with more Parmesan.

Grits and greens

This weeknight dinner is the perfect homey and rustic dish. Quick-cooking grits become extra flavorful because they are simmered in vegetable stock and get a creamy bite from the combinatio­n of milk and sharp cheddar that’s stirred in once the grits are tender. Using both collard greens and Swiss chard lends more interestin­g and varied tastes and textures. Because the leaves are cooked just until wilted, apple cider vinegar is added at the end to help balance out any bitterness. A little hot sauce splashed on just before serving helps tie the entire dish together, awakening the flavors in both the greens and grits.

By Vallery Lomas Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 40 minutes Ingredient­s for the grits:

• 2 cups vegetable stock

• 1 cup quick-cooking grits

• 1/4 tsp ground black pepper

• 1/2 cup whole milk

• 1/2 cup shredded sharp cheddar (3 oz) • Salt

Ingredient­s for the greens:

• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 shallot, minced

• 2 garlic cloves, sliced

• Pinch of red-pepper flakes

• 1 bunch collard greens (12 1/2 oz), stems removed, leaves cut into 1-inch pieces

• 1 bunch Swiss chard (10 oz), leaves and stems cut into 1-inch pieces

• Salt and black pepper

• 1 cup vegetable stock

• 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar

• Hot sauce, to serve

Preparatio­n:

1. Make the grits: In a medium saucepan, heat the vegetable stock and 2 cups water over medium-high until boiling. Once boiling, slowly pour in the grits while whisking to reduce lumps. Once the grits come to a boil, reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, whisking frequently, until thickened, 5 to 8 minutes.

2. Remove the pan from the stove. Season the grits with the pepper, then stir in the milk and cheese until the cheese melts. Season to taste with salt. Set aside and cover to keep warm.

3. Meanwhile, make the greens: Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high. Add the shallot and garlic, and cook, stirring often, until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the red-pepper flakes, collards and chard. Toss to combine until wilted, 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt, add the vegetable stock and bring to a simmer.

4. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook, stirring occasional­ly, until the greens are very tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, and season again to taste with salt and pepper. Divide the grits among plates and top with the greens and a dash of hot sauce.

 ?? JOHNNY MILLER / THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? Saag paneer is a classic Indian dish of stewed, seasoned greens.
JOHNNY MILLER / THE NEW YORK TIMES Saag paneer is a classic Indian dish of stewed, seasoned greens.
 ?? DANE TASHIMA / NEW YORK TIMES FILE (2022) ?? Yasmin Fahr’s broiled salmon and asparagus with herbs has a mustard-soy sauce glaze that brings deep, salty swagger.
DANE TASHIMA / NEW YORK TIMES FILE (2022) Yasmin Fahr’s broiled salmon and asparagus with herbs has a mustard-soy sauce glaze that brings deep, salty swagger.

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