Las Vegas Review-Journal (Sunday)
Clean out your fridge, find dinner
Tamar Adler has a new cookbook devoted to leftovers — “The Everlasting Meal Cookbook: Leftovers A-Z” — packed with recipes like refried bean hummus, a pad thai omelet, hot dog banh mi, chicken ragù. I love the elegant honesty of Tamar’s writing, the sureness of her direction and the range of her ideas. It’s the kind of book that makes you feel more capable just by opening it.
Her book inspired me to feature New York Times Cooking recipes this week that easily use up leftovers, if you’ve got them (or, in the case of fried rice, do so by design).
Chicken Fried Rice By Ali Slagle
Fried rice is so perfect for using up whatever you’ve got that the rice sometimes becomes an afterthought. But not here: First, the rice is lightly seasoned with scallions, ginger and garlic, then judiciously studded with chicken, peas and small curds of egg so that you can still taste the rice itself. Ground chicken is used instead of sliced or cubed because it’s easy to infuse with seasonings and can brown without drying out. If you’d like to add additional vegetables, of course you can: Stir-fry them after Step 2, remove them from the pan, then add them back with the chicken in Step 4.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Total time: 20 minutes Ingredients:
• 1 pound ground chicken or turkey, preferably dark meat
• 2 tbsp soy sauce, plus more to taste
• 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1 (3-inch) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
• 1 to 1 1/2 tsp red-pepper flakes, chile sauce or chopped fresh chile (optional)
• 3 tbsp neutral oil, plus more as needed
• 1 bunch scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced, dark green parts separated
• 4 cups cooked, long-grain white or brown rice, preferably day-old (or 1 1/3 cups uncooked rice; see Tip)
• 1/2 cup frozen peas (about 2 1/2 ounces; no need to thaw)
• Salt
• 2 large eggs, beaten with a pinch of salt
• Any combination of chile sauce, rice or black vinegar, toasted sesame oil, white pepper, cilantro and MSG (optional, for serving) Preparation:
1. In a medium bowl, use your hands or two forks to mix together the ground chicken, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, half the garlic, half the ginger, and the red-pepper flakes (if using).
2. Heat your largest nonstick or cast-iron skillet over medium-high until very hot. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil and the ground chicken, then use a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula to quickly press meat into a thin layer (like one giant smash burger). Cook, undisturbed, until meat is browned underneath, 3 to 5 minutes. Break up meat into bite-size pieces and stir until cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn off the heat, then transfer the chicken to a clean bowl, leaving the juices and fat in the skillet.
3. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, the scallion whites and the remaining ginger and garlic to the skillet. Raise heat to medium-high, scrape up browned bits on the skillet and stir until sizzling and light golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the rice, peas, the remaining 1 tablespoon of soy sauce and salt to taste. Stir to coat in the oil and break up clumps of rice. Spread out the rice along the sides and bottom of the skillet. Cook, undisturbed, until the sound shifts from a sizzle to a crackle and the rice is golden at the edges, 3 to 5 minutes. If the rice is burning, add more oil.
4. Pour the eggs in a thin stream over the rice. When you see some of the egg start to set, 15 to 30 seconds, toss the rice constantly to break up and cook the eggs. Add the chicken and toss to warm through, 1 minute. Turn off the heat and stir in the scallion greens. Serve with more soy sauce and other seasonings as you like.
Tip: Leftover, cooked rice from the fridge has less moisture, so it will crisp more easily. If you’re starting with uncooked rice, cook it as you would pasta so that the grains are not clumped together: Bring a
large pot of salted water to a boil. Add 1 1/3 cups rice and cook until just cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes for white rice and 25 to 30 minutes for brown rice. Drain, run under cold water to cool, shake to get rid of any water, then spread out on a baking sheet and refrigerate until Step 4.
Roasted white bean and tomato pasta
By Alexa Weibel
With a flavor profile inspired by pasta e fagioli, this weeknight pasta recipe coaxes rich flavor out of simple ingredients while enlisting the oven to create a luscious sauce from roasted tomatoes and white beans. Essentially, the dish requires just three steps: Boil pasta, roast your sauce ingredients, then stir together until the pasta is glossy. When roasted in the oven, the beans become crispy, like croutons, and break down in a way that helps thicken the sauce. Though a flurry of freshly grated cheese would be welcome on top, this otherwise-vegan dish doesn’t need it: The roasted tomato sauce is rich and luscious, fortified by starchy pasta water, roasted beans and a good glug of extra-virgin olive oil.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Total time: 30 minutes Ingredients:
• Salt and black pepper
• 3/4 cup plus 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 large shallot, finely minced
• 2 tbsp tomato paste
• 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 1/2 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary (or 1/4 tsp dried)
• 1/2 tsp red-pepper flakes
• 1/2 tsp sugar
• 16 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved
• 1 (15-ounce) can small white beans (preferably navy or cannellini beans), rinsed (or 1 1/3 cups cooked white beans)
• 1 pound orecchiette (or other shaped pasta that will cup or grasp the sauce)
• Freshly grated Parmesan or pecorino (optional), for serving Preparation:
1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high.
2. In a small bowl, stir together 1/4 cup olive oil with the shallot, tomato paste, garlic, rosemary, red-pepper flakes and sugar. On a large baking sheet, toss the tomatoes with the dressing; season generously with salt and pepper, then spread in an even layer.
3. On a second baking sheet, toss the beans with 2 tablespoons olive oil; season generously with salt and pepper.
4. Roast the tomatoes and beans, stirring halfway through, until tomatoes slump and beans crisp, about 25 minutes.
5. While the tomatoes and beans roast, cook the pasta until al dente. Reserve 1 cup pasta cooking water then drain pasta.
6. Transfer the beans and tomatoes to the pot. Add 1/4 cup pasta cooking water to the sheet pan from the tomatoes and use a flexible spatula to scrape the browned bits from the bottom of the sheet pan; transfer to the pot, then repeat with another 1/4 cup pasta cooking water. (One thing they’ll teach you in French culinary school: Never, ever discard the sucs, those browned bits at the bottom of the pan that carry deep flavor.)
7. Add the pasta and the remaining 1/2 cup olive oil to the pot; stir vigorously until saucy. Season generously with salt and pepper, then add extra pasta water as needed to moisten until glossy. Divide among wide, shallow bowls and top with grated cheese, if desired.
Sheet-pan bibimbap By Eric Kim
Bibimbap, the Korean mixed rice dish, is a kaleidoscope of flavors and textures. The popular dish has multiple origin stories and, like banchan and kimchi, many variations. Cooks who ordinarily keep namul (seasoned vegetable) banchan in the fridge may add them to a bowl with leftover rice and seasonings like spicy-sweet gochujang and
nutty sesame oil, for example. Or, if starting their bibimbap from scratch, some may prep each component separately. But here’s a fun way to accomplish everything at once: Roast a melange of bits and bobs on one sheet pan as rice heats and eggs oven-fry on another. The caramelized sweet potato and salty kale in this formula come highly recommended, but you can use any vegetables on hand, reducing cook times for delicate options such as spinach, scallions or asparagus.
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 35 minutes Ingredients:
• 6 ounces oyster mushrooms, torn into bite-size pieces
• 1 medium sweet potato (about 6 ounces), scrubbed and thinly sliced into half-moons
• 1 small red onion (about 6 ounces), thinly sliced crosswise into half-moons
• 3 packed cups coarsely chopped Tuscan or curly kale (from 1 small bunch)
• 6 tbsp olive oil
• Kosher salt and black pepper
• 4 cups cooked medium-grain white rice, preferably cold leftovers
• 4 large eggs
• 4 tsp toasted sesame oil, plus more to taste, for serving
• 4 tsp gochujang, plus more to taste, for serving
• Kimchi, for serving (optional) Preparation:
1. Position racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven and heat oven to 450 degrees.
2. On a large sheet pan, arrange the mushrooms, sweet potato, red onion and kale into four separate quadrants. Drizzle the vegetables with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat, keeping the types of vegetables separate. Try to not crowd the vegetables; you want them to brown, not steam. Roast on the top rack until the sweet potato is fork-tender, the onion and mushrooms are slightly caramelized and the kale is crispy but not burnt, 20 to 25 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, place another large sheet pan on the bottom rack to heat. When the vegetables are almost done cooking, in the last 5 minutes or so, remove the heated pan from the oven and evenly drizzle the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil on it. Spread the rice over half of the pan. Crack the eggs onto the other half and carefully transfer to the oven. Bake until the whites are just set and the yolks are still runny, 3 to 6 minutes (this time may vary depending on your oven, so watch it carefully).
4. To serve, divide the rice evenly among four bowls. Now divide the vegetables evenly as well, placing them in four neat piles over each portion of rice. Use a spatula to slide the eggs over the vegetables. Drizzle each bowl with 1 teaspoon of sesame oil and dollop with 1 teaspoon of gochujang, adding more if desired. Mix everything together with a spoon or chopsticks before diving in, and serve kimchi alongside, if you prefer.
All-purpose green sauce
By Melissa Clark
This tangy, creamy sauce is the perfect home for all those extra herbs you may have on hand from other recipes — that leftover sprig of mint, the stemmy part of that bunch of cilantro, the droopy basil. You can use any combination of soft herbs here; you’ll need two packed cups altogether. And you don’t have to limit yourself to herbs. Other flavorful, leafy options include arugula, celery leaves or pea shoots. For a vegan version, skip the yogurt and use more olive oil, along with a small squeeze of lemon for some acidity.
Yield: About 2 cups Total time: 10 minutes Ingredients:
• 1 packed cup basil leaves
• 1/2 packed cup parsley leaves and tender stems
• 1/2 packed cup chopped chives • 2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
• Pinch of black pepper
• 1/4 cup plain Greek yogurt or sour cream
• 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 1/2 tsp finely grated lemon zest
• 1/4 tsp kosher salt (Diamond Crystal), plus more to taste Preparation:
1. Place herbs, garlic and pepper in a food processor or blender, and pulse to combine, stopping to scrape down the sides of the container if necessary.
2. Add yogurt and purée until smooth. (This may take a minute or so; scrape down the sides of the container as needed.) With the motor running, gradually drizzle in the olive oil. Pulse in lemon zest and salt. Taste and add more salt if needed.
3. Use immediately or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 5 days. Spoon over grilled or roasted chicken, seafood (especially shrimp and salmon), sausages, steaks, lamb chops and vegetables. Use as a marinade for chicken, lamb or pork; as a dressing for starchy salads with beans, potatoes or grains, or for hearty vegetable salads, like those with cucumbers or blanched and sliced sugar snap peas or green beans. Serve as a dip for crudité or chips. Spread in roast beef, lamb or pork sandwiches.
Roasted vegetable burritos
Roasted mushrooms, sweet potatoes and poblano chiles become a comforting vegetarian burrito filling in just 30 minutes. The meaty mushrooms and hearty potatoes give it substance, while roasted poblanos impart subtle smoky notes and mild heat. (Green bell peppers are a good nonspicy alternative.) The mashed avocado and sour cream lend creamy richness, while shredded lettuce and pico de gallo bring welcome crunch and freshness. Although not necessary, leftover rice is a nice addition to the burritos for an even more substantial meal.
By Kay Chun
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 30 minutes Ingredients:
• 12 ounces white, cremini or stuffing mushrooms, cut into 1/2inch pieces
• 3 large poblano chiles (12 ounces), seeded and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 medium sweet potato (8 ounces), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• 1 tsp smoked paprika
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil • Kosher salt and black pepper
• 1 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese (4 ounces)
• 1 Haas avocado, mashed with a fork
• 4 (9- to 10-inch) flour tortillas • 1/2 cup sour cream
• 1 packed cup shredded butter or bibb lettuce
• 1/2 cup pico de gallo or salsa, store-bought or homemade Preparation:
1. Heat oven to 450 degrees. On a rimmed baking sheet, combine mushrooms, poblano chiles, sweet potato, garlic, oregano, smoked paprika and oil, and season with salt and pepper; toss to evenly coat. Roast, stirring halfway through, until vegetables are golden and tender, about 15 minutes. Push the vegetables into a 12-by-6-inch rectangle and sprinkle with the cheese; roast just until cheese melts, about 2 minutes longer.
2. Spread one-quarter of the mashed avocado in the center of each tortilla. Top each with 2 tablespoons of the sour cream, 1/4 cup lettuce and 2 tablespoons pico de gallo, then evenly divide the cheesy roasted vegetables on top. Fold the short sides of the tortilla in over the filling; fold the bottom of the tortilla up and over the filling and tightly roll. Serve warm.