Las Vegas Review-Journal (Sunday)
Options for an easy Eid lunch
Shortcuts can lower stress in preparation, cooking
Maryam Jillani remembers the fervor around Eid al-fitr celebrations ushered in by the end of Ramadan, the month of fasting and spiritual contemplation for Muslims. Endless meals included biryanis and kofta, lamb in its various iterations, milky-syrupy desserts, all laid out on embroidered tablecloths, among the good china and silverware, in drawing rooms across the Muslim world.
Jillani, the founder of the Pakistan Eats blog, said trying to recreate the bigness of Eid and its feasts was “exhausting.” After years of feeling similarly fatigued, and a couple of years of not hosting at all, I now throw more relaxed Eid parties.
I used to feel guests had to know the best of me: aloo gosht made with goat sourced from the best halal butcher, eight-hour haleem cooked with homemade stock that had taken even longer. One year, when milk for kheer was slowly reducing over the stovetop, it boiled over just as the blender I was using to make nimbu pani erupted. My husband, readying for bed, asked, “Who is this for?”
“I’m having fun, OK!” I yelled back. But it got me thinking.
I was reminded of the smaller, easier parties I hosted as the pandemic lockdown loosened, and how my friends and I approached these meals with a renewed, almost sacred sense of joy. Meeting and sharing a meal was enough of a reason to celebrate, no matter the scale.
That’s the plan here, a simple menu using shortcuts like frozen vegetables and mangoes. And the special things on the table, like kofta, can be made ahead and simply pulled from the freezer to heat. In the end, the dishes below make a festive meal, and you can even outsource dessert. It’s an Eid celebration without the fuss.
Mango lassi
Mangoes tend to vary in texture and sweetness depending on where they are from; tart varieties can add sour notes to salad while milder mangoes go well with chile and lime. In Pakistan and across South Asia, there is a revered, intoxicating sweetness to most mangoes. Adding yogurt and milk to chopped bits balances that sweetness and makes this Punjabi mango lassi the perfect chilled drink for hot summer months, when the fruit is in season. This recipe adds honey to the mix, making allowances for the kind of mango that might be available — but you can skip it, if luck sources sweet mangoes. For added luxury, finish the drink off with powdered cardamom and crushed nuts.
By Zainab Shah Yield: 4 servings Total time: 5 minutes Ingredients:
• 3 cups (1 1/2 pounds) frozen or fresh chopped mango
• 2 cups full-fat plain yogurt (preferably Desi- or Indian-style)
• 1 cup milk or water
• 2 tbsp honey
• 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
• 1 tsp cardamom powder (optional)
• 1 tsp crushed almonds (optional) • 1 tsp crushed pistachios (optional)
Preparation:
1. In a blender, blend mango, yogurt, milk, honey and salt until smooth.
2. Pour into glasses and top with cardamom powder and nuts, if using.
Chicken kofta in tomato gravy
Kofta are delightful little balls of heavily spiced ground meat, most often beef or lamb. They exist on a spectrum of flavors and textures across multiple regional cuisines and even continents (and spelling variations exist). In Pakistan, they are tender and cooked in a spiced gravy. This kind of preparation makes them perfect to eat over basmati rice and roti, the gravy poured over the former or sopped up with the latter. Though traditionalists will say poppy seeds are a must, this chicken version makes allowances for what might be available. Gram flour acts as a binding agent and vinegar is a tenderizer. Make the kofta ahead of time (and the gravy, too, if you like) and freeze for up to three months. To cook from frozen, add the kofta directly to simmering gravy.
By Zainab Shah
Yield: 4 to 6 servings (18 to 24
kofta)
Total time: 55 minutes Ingredients for the kofta:
• 2 pounds ground chicken
• 1/2 cup chopped cilantro (optional)
• 3 tbsp gram flour or chickpea flour
• 2 tbsp poppy seeds (optional)
• 1 tbsp white or malt vinegar
• 2 tsp cumin seeds
• 2 tsp fine sea salt
• 1 1/2 tsp ginger paste or freshly grated ginger
• 1 1/2 tsp garlic paste or freshly grated garlic
• 1 1/2 tsp Kashmiri or other mild red chile powder (or 1 tsp red-pepper flakes) •Vegetable or other neutral oil, for greasing hands
Ingredients for the gravy:
• 1/4 cup ghee or neutral oil
• 1 large yellow or red onion, finely chopped
• 1 1/2 tsp ginger paste or freshly grated ginger
• 1 1/2 tsp garlic paste or freshly grated garlic
• 1 1/2 tsp Kashmiri or other mild red chile powder
• 1 tsp cumin powder
• 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
• 4 Roma tomatoes, finely chopped, or 1 1/2 cups canned crushed tomatoes
• 1 tsp fine sea salt, plus more to taste
• 2 cups unsalted chicken stock or water
• 3 Thai green chiles, sliced
• 1/4 cup full-fat plain Greek yogurt
• 1 tsp poppy seeds (optional) • 1/2 tsp garam masala
• 2 tbsp roughly chopped cilantro • Rice, roti or naan, for serving
Preparation: 1.
Prepare the kofta: Mix all the ingredients for the kofta except for the oil until evenly distributed. (Do not overmix.) With oiled palms, gently form golf ball-size kofta and lay them out on a sheet pan making sure they’re not touching. If cooking right away, set aside while you make the gravy. (If freezing, place the sheet pan in a freezer for 3 hours or until the kofta harden, then transfer to a container and store for up to 3 months. If refrigerating, cover and chill overnight.)
2. Prepare the gravy: Heat ghee or oil in a large pot on high for 30 seconds. Add onion, ginger and garlic and cook until the onion is translucent, 5 to 7 minutes, stirring frequently.
3. Add red chile powder, cumin and turmeric and stir for 30 seconds. Stir in tomatoes and salt. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the mixture becomes jammy and the oil separates, 5 to 7 minutes.
4. Add stock and green chiles and bring to a boil. (If you prefer a slightly thicker gravy, cook until slightly reduced, 3 to 5 minutes.) Stir in yogurt. Once the mixture is simmering, reduce heat to medium and gently lower the meatballs into the liquid. (They may not all fit in one layer.)
5. Once the liquid returns to a simmer, reduce the heat to low, cover and cook until the kofta are done (cut one open to make sure it’s cooked through), 20 to 25 minutes. Season to taste with salt. Top with poppy seeds (if using), garam masala and cilantro. Serve with rice, roti or naan.
Tip: Once the kofta are in the pot, do not stir or stir gently once the meatballs are firm to reduce the chance of them breaking.
Aloo palak (spicy spinach and potatoes)
Onion, tomatoes, ginger, garlic and layered spices make the base for this deceptively simple vegetarian main or hefty side — a preparation well-suited for the humble potato and spinach. As is typical for South Asian dishes, aloo palak packs a fiery punch. The key here is chopping the potatoes into 1-inch cubes so they cook quickly. Since spinach doesn’t take as long to cook, it’s added toward the end when the potatoes are almost done. Use frozen chopped spinach for convenience and dinner can be ready in about 30 minutes from start to finish. Serve with rice, roti or store-bought pita.
By Zainab Shah Yield: 4 to 6 servings Total time: 35 minutes Ingredients:
• 1/4 cup ghee or neutral oil
• 1 large yellow or red onion, finely chopped
• 1 1/2 tsp ginger paste or freshly grated ginger
• 1 1/2 tsp garlic paste or freshly grated garlic
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 3 Thai green chiles, sliced
• 1 tsp red-pepper flakes or about 2/3 tsp Kashmiri chile powder • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
• 3 Roma tomatoes, finely chopped, or 1 cup canned crushed tomatoes
• 1 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
• 3 medium Yukon Gold or red gold potatoes, cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1 pound frozen chopped spinach (unthawed) or fresh mature spinach, chopped
• 1/2 tsp garam masala •Rice, roti or pita, for serving
Preparation:
1. In a large pot, heat ghee for 30 seconds on high. Add onion, ginger and garlic and stir for 30 seconds. Stir in cumin seeds, green chiles, red-pepper flakes and turmeric.
2. Add tomatoes and salt, stir and continue cooking until the tomatoes are jammy and the oil has separated, 3 to 5 minutes.
3. Stir in potatoes. Add 1/2 cup water, bring to a boil and lower heat to medium. Cover and cook for 12 minutes or until potatoes are almost done.
4. Add spinach and turn the heat up to high. Once the mix starts bubbling, lower the heat to medium, cover and simmer until potatoes are cooked through, stirring occasionally, 7 to 10 minutes. Top with garam masala and serve with rice, roti or pita.
Kerala-style vegetable korma
A korma can be made with any combination of meats and vegetables, braised or stewed. In the Indian coastal state of Kerala, where coconuts are abundant, vegetable korma is made with desiccated fresh coconut and coconut milk. This quick, convenient version uses the same foundation — onion, tomatoes, ginger and garlic — while skipping the fresh coconut. It works just as well with whatever combination of fresh or frozen vegetables that might be handy. Cashew butter is used in place of making a paste from soaked cashews. Black mustard seeds add complex bitterness; Thai green chiles, black pepper and garam masala give it a kick. Cutting corners doesn’t quell any flavor in this recipe.
By Zainab Shah Time: 18 minutes Yield: 4 to 6 servings Ingredients:
• 1/4 cup ghee, coconut oil or neutral oil
• 2 tsp black mustard seeds
• 1 yellow or red onion, finely chopped
• 1 tsp ginger paste or freshly grated ginger
• 1 tsp garlic paste or freshly grated garlic
• 3 Thai green chiles, sliced
• 2 tsp coarsely ground Malabar black pepper or 1 1/2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper
• 1 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
• 3/4 tsp Kashmiri or other mild red chile powder (optional)
• 1/2 tsp turmeric powder
• 3 Roma tomatoes (optional), finely chopped
• 2 tbsp cashew butter
• 1 pound frozen (not thawed) or fresh mixed vegetables, such as cauliflower florets, chopped carrots, peas, broccoli florets, chopped green beans and corn
• 1 (13.5-ounce) can full-fat coconut milk
• 1/2 tsp garam masala
• 2 tbsp chopped cilantro (optional)
• Rice, roti or naan, for serving
Preparation:
1. Heat ghee or oil in a large pot over high for 30 seconds. Add mustard seeds. When they start to sputter, add onion, ginger, garlic and green chiles. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally until the onions are translucent, about 5 minutes.
2. Stir in black pepper, salt, red chile powder and turmeric. Add tomatoes (if using) and cashew butter and stir until the cashew butter has melted. (If using the tomatoes, continue cooking until the tomatoes start to break down, about 5 minutes.) Stir in vegetables then coconut milk. Once the liquid is boiling, reduce the heat to medium and continue simmering until the vegetables are cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes.
3. Top with garam masala and cilantro, if using. Serve with rice, roti or naan.
Basmati rice
How to cook rice to its perfect texture is an art: too much water and it’s gloppy; too little, and it’s dry and brittle. If it’s cooked for too long, it smushes together; not enough time and it’s grainy and hard. Different types of rice require different cooking methods, too. This recipe, specifically for long-grain basmati rice, boils it down to a science. The rice-to-water ratio used here is 1 cup rice to 1 1/2 cups water, but thoroughly drained rice, heat levels, cook time and resting time can all impact results. Even the size of the pot matters; you’ll want to select a small one in which the water level rises an inch above the rice level. Follow the steps exactly and cooking long-grain basmati rice is no longer an experiment but a formula.
By Zainab Shah
Yield: 4 servings (about 3 cups) Total time: 25 minutes Ingredients:
• 1 cup long-grain basmati rice
Preparation:
1. Wash the rice in a large bowl and pour out the water. Repeat until the water runs clear, then drain the rice using a sieve.
2. Add rice and 1 1/2 cups water to a small saucepan; the water level should be about 1 inch above the rice. Heat over high. Once the water boils, about 6 minutes, cover the pot and reduce the heat to low. Cook, undisturbed, for 12 minutes. Turn the heat off and let sit for 10 minutes. Uncover and fluff the rice using a fork. Serve.
Tip: If you like, add bay leaf, salt, whole spices (such as cloves and cardamom) or other flavoring agents to your rice before cooking.