Las Vegas Review-Journal (Sunday)
Dinner is served: Silky salmon at the push of a button and more
The microwave and the baby arrived roughly around the same time. I hadn’t had a microwave until then: My kitchen was small, counter space was highly coveted, and I wasn’t doing enough reheating to justify it. But my husband wisely realized that we’d want to heat food for the baby and for us, the new parents, in a quick and nonfussy way. And so it happened. We bought a microwave.
Skip forward years later, and unsurprisingly, the dowdy microwave gets a lot of love around here. It’s excellent for cooking vegetables (fresh or frozen) and brilliant for cooking corn on the cob (so succulent!). It’s amazing for steaming eggs and rice. And now I’ve got something new to try: poaching salmon. That recipe is below, along with four other new arrivals on New York Times Cooking.
Microwave salmon
This easy approach to poached salmon turns out buttery, flawless fish. The trick to getting domino-fall flakes of salmon? Microwave it in a simple saltwater solution at full power and let it rest for an equal amount of time before serving. The water both seasons the fish and helps it cook evenly. You can add a teaspoon of sugar or syrup to the saltwater to add a subtle sweetness, and aromatics, such as rosemary or dill, to create additional layers of flavor. If you have time, you can brine the salmon as long as overnight in the refrigerator, which helps reduce the albumin (the harmless white protein that gathers on the surface of the fish during cooking). Most microwaves range in power levels from 600 to 1200 watts. This formula was developed in a 1000-watt microwave that boils one cup of cold tap water in 2 minutes. Cooking speeds on microwaves vary, even among those with the same wattage, so this recipe calls for checking your fillet early to avoid overcooking.
By Kevin Noble Maillard
Yield: 2 servings
Total time: 15 minutes
Ingredients:
• 2 cups lukewarm water
• 2 tsp fine or coarse sea salt
• 1 (12-oz) salmon fillet, preferably skin on and 1 1/2 inches thick (see Tips)
Preparation:
1. Fill a microwave-safe dish that can hold the salmon snugly with the water. Add the salt and stir to dissolve. Add the salmon, skin side down, and baste by spooning the saltwater over it. The top of the fillet should stick out of the saltwater (see Tips). Loosely cover with a microwave-safe lid or plate.
2. Microwave the salmon at full power (high) for 3 minutes. Check for doneness by inserting a sharp paring knife into the center of the fillet. If it slides in easily without resistance, the salmon is done. It should take about 4 minutes for medium-rare doneness and about 5 minutes for medium, but the time may vary because every microwave cooks differently.
3. Let the fish sit, still covered in the dish, for 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the water and serve.
Tips:
This formula below was designed for farmraised Atlantic salmon, which has a high fat content. For wild varieties, which are leaner and less thick, reduce cooking and resting times by half.
The salmon should be surrounded by but not submerged in the water. If the dish is larger, add more saltwater as needed, dissolving 1 teaspoon salt in each additional cup of lukewarm water.
Chimichurri meatballs
Chimichurri is lively, with loads of parsley and oregano; bracing, with garlic, crushed red pepper and red wine vinegar; and rich, from buttery olive oil — all attributes that do wonders for meatballs. Add a generous amount of the Argentine sauce to the ground beef mixture, then roll and sear the meatballs until crispy and browned. (You can also broil for 7 to 10 minutes.) Serve as an appetizer, with more chimichurri alongside for dipping, or make the meatballs into a meal with couscous, broccoli, roasted peppers or a kale salad dressed with the chimichurri.
By Ali Slagle
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 35 minutes
Ingredients for the chimichurri sauce:
• 1 packed cup parsley leaves and tender stems
• 1/2 packed cup fresh oregano leaves
• 3 garlic cloves
• Salt
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
• 1/2 tsp crushed red pepper, plus more as needed
Ingredients for the meatballs:
• 1 cup panko breadcrumbs
• 1 large egg
• Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or fine sea salt
• 1 lb ground beef (preferably 15% fat)
• 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Preparation:
1. To make the chimichurri, on your cutting board or in a food processor, combine the parsley, oregano, garlic and a big pinch of salt. Chop or pulse until a coarse, juicy paste forms, then transfer to a medium bowl. Add the oil, vinegar, crushed red pepper and 1 tablespoon water; mix well. Season to taste with salt and more crushed red pepper to taste. (Sauce can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.)
2. In a large bowl, stir the panko, egg, 1 teaspoon kosher salt (or 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt) with 1/4 cup water and 1/4 cup chimichurri until the panko is wet and softened. Add the beef and use your hands to mix until combined.
3. Roll the mixture into 12 meatballs (3 tablespoons/2 ounces each) and chill for 5 to 10 minutes to firm slightly.
4. Heat the oil in a large, nonstick skillet over medium. Add the meatballs and cook, turning occasionally, until browned and medium-rare, or to desired doneness, 7 to 10 minutes. Serve with remaining chimichurri spooned over top and alongside.
Chicken quesadillas
Ever the reliable 10-minute snack or meal, chicken quesadillas are not hard to make, but a few pointers ensure they’re as gooey, crispy and delicious as possible: Start with cool, shredded chicken so it doesn’t make the tortilla soggy. Toss the chicken and cheese together for even distribution, and add a smidgen of chili powder to the filling for spunk. Cook the quesadilla over moderate heat so the cheese melts just as the tortilla’s toasted.
By Ali Slagle Yield: 2 quesadillas Total time: 10 minutes Ingredients:
• 3/4 cup/4 oz cooked, shredded, cooled chicken
• 1 cup/4 oz shredded cheddar, Mexican blend, pepper Jack or Monterey Jack cheese
• 1/2 tsp chili powder
• 2 (8- to 10-inch) flour tortillas
• Any combination of hot sauce, crema, salsa and guacamole (all optional), for serving
Preparation:
1. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, toss together the chicken, cheese and chili powder until combined. Sprinkle half the filling across half of each tortilla, then fold the tortillas over the filling to create a half-moon.
2. Add the folded tortillas to the skillet, making a circle. Cook, pressing down occasionally, until the cheese has melted and the tortillas are crisp and golden, 1 to 3 minutes per side.
3. Transfer to plates, let sit for about 30 seconds, then cut into wedges and eat with desired toppings.
Lemony pasta with braised white beans
Braising canned white beans with garlic, chile flakes and olive oil is a classic recipe — a speedy, meatless, very satisfying weeknight meal. This version turns the mix into a sauce for pasta, brightened by lemon juice and zest and rounded out with fresh parsley or arugula and cherry tomatoes, a juicy contrast to the velvety beans. The pasta water also plays an important role here, keeping the beans from becoming pasty. Use the best olive oil you can, especially for drizzling at the end. That’s where you’ll really taste it, and a robust, herbal oil will add a lot of character to this simple dish.
By Melissa Clark Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Total time: 30 minutes Ingredients:
• Salt
• 1 lb short pasta, such as shells or orecchiette
• 1/2 cup plus 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, more for drizzling
• 1 cup diced cherry or other ripe tomatoes • 1/4 tsp crushed red pepper, plus more as needed
• 2 large shallots, thinly sliced
• 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 1 lemon, zest finely grated
• 2 (15.5-oz) cans white beans, rinsed and drained
• 1 1/2 cups chopped parsley or arugula leaves and tender stems
• 1/2 cup grated Parmesan, plus more as needed
Preparation:
1. In a large pot of well-salted water, cook pasta according to package directions.
2. As pasta cooks, in a small bowl, combine 1 tablespoon olive oil, the tomatoes and a pinch each of salt and red pepper, and toss to combine. Set aside to marinate.
3. In a large skillet or Dutch oven, heat 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil over medium. Stir in shallots and sauté until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook 1 minute, or until the edges just begin to turn golden brown. Add red pepper, 1/2 teaspoon salt, lemon zest, beans and 1 cup chopped parsley. Simmer, mashing some of the beans, until the sauce has thickened, 10 to 15 minutes. Reduce heat as needed. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt and red pepper if needed.
4. Reserve 1 cup pasta water and drain pasta. Add pasta to white beans, along with remaining 1/2 cup chopped parsley, the juice of half a lemon, the grated Parmesan and 1/2 cup reserved pasta water. Toss until combined, adding more pasta water until the mixture is saucy. Toss in the tomatoes and their liquid. Taste, and add more salt and lemon juice if needed. Serve pasta in bowls drizzled with olive oil and topped with more grated Parmesan.
Tamarind-maple Brussels sprouts
Earthy and slightly bitter Brussels sprouts always benefit from a touch of sweetness, and in this recipe, they are bathed in a tart, tangy, sweet and glossy tamarind glaze. The sharp sourness of tamarind is tempered by buttery, caramellike maple syrup, and together, they form a thick, luscious coating that would be equally enticing with other cruciferous vegetables such as cauliflower or broccoli. Thick,
viscous tamarind purée (which is often interchangeably labeled as concentrate or paste) is preferred for this recipe, but you could also use the rehydrated pulp (sold in blocks), though the glaze may not be as glossy. A nob of butter is all it takes to add a silky richness to the sauce. (Vegan butter would work here, too.) Eat with rice or as a tasty side dish.
By Hetty Lui Mckinnon
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Total time: 35 minutes
Ingredients for the Brussels sprouts:
• 2 lbs Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved (or quartered if large)
• Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed
• Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and black pepper
• 1 tbsp unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup roasted cashews, roughly chopped
• 2 scallions, finely sliced
Ingredients for the tamarind-maple glaze:
• 1/4 cup maple syrup
• 2 tbsp soy sauce (or tamari)
• 1 tbsp tamarind purée
• 1 clove garlic, grated
• 1/4 tsp crushed red pepper
Preparation:
1. Heat oven to 425 degrees.
2. Place Brussels sprouts on a 9- by-13-inch sheet pan and drizzle over 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Roast until golden and tender, 20 to 22 minutes. Set aside.
3. Prepare the glaze: To a large skillet, add maple syrup, soy sauce, tamarind, garlic and crushed red pepper. Place over medium-high heat and bring to the boil; it will start bubbling around the edges. Cook, stirring, until the sauce thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes.
4. Add the roasted Brussels sprouts to the sauce and toss for 1 to 2 minutes, until the glaze thickens further and evenly coats them. Add the butter and once it melts, turn off the heat.
5. Transfer to a bowl, add the cashews and scallions and stir to combine. Season with a little more salt and black pepper, to taste. Serve warm.