Las Vegas Review-Journal (Sunday)
A pasta that’s perfect for easy cleanup, one sheet-pan sausages, and more
Last week, I asked for your favorite brilliant and easy dinners after I shared a new one of mine, Eric Kim’s peanut butter noodles. I got an email from a reader named Lia that was so attuned to the prompt that I’m sharing it here. It’s a no-recipe recipe for roasted salmon, and to me it both reads like a scene from my own kitchen (“check emails quickly if it’s not done yet”) and sounds like it should be dinner tonight:
Slather stone-ground mustard and maple syrup on a salmon fillet on a baking sheet, and pop it in the oven at around 375 or so. (I’ve done this with fresh and with frozen salmon, both work well, but frozen is in some ways better because: 1. You don’t have to thaw it if it’s something you have on hand in your freezer, 2. The mustard and maple stick to it better, and 3. It’s harder to overcook the salmon — usually ends up juicier.)
Throw some mustard and maple in a largish bowl with the zest and juice of a lime or two, a bit of salt and some olive oil, and mix. Toss in a good amount of hearty greens (anything will do, but my favorite is frisée) and mix a bit. Check the salmon for doneness, check emails quickly if it’s not done yet, check it again, and if it’s done (or better yet just slightly under since it seems to keep cooking once it’s out) put salad in a bowl, salmon on top and dinner’s ready.
One-pot spaghetti with cherry tomatoes and kale
In this simple recipe, raw pasta and cherry tomatoes are simmered together in a single pan, cooking the pasta and forming a thick, starchy sauce at the same time. The efficient technique is internet famous, but this is British cookbook author Anna Jones’ vegetarian take on the phenomenon, adapted from her book “A Modern Way to Cook.” The technique is easy to master and endlessly adaptable: When you add the kale, you could also toss in a couple of anchovies and a generous pinch of red-pepper flakes. When you season and top with cheese, you could add a pile of fresh chopped herbs, like mint, basil or oregano.
Recipe from Anna Jones Adapted by Tejal Rao Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 20 minutes Ingredients:
• 1 lb spaghetti
• 1 lb cherry tomatoes, halved (about 2 pints)
• 2 lemons, zested
• 1/4 cup plus 3 tbsp olive oil
• 2 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste
• 1 bunch kale or spinach, leaves only, washed and chopped
• Black pepper
• Parmesan, for serving
Preparation:
1. Bring just over a quart of water to a boil. Meanwhile, place spaghetti, tomatoes, lemon zest, oil and 2 teaspoons kosher salt in a large, dry, shallow pan. (The pan should be large enough that the dry spaghetti can lie flat.)
2. Carefully add the boiling water to the pan with the spaghetti. Cover pan, and bring up to a boil. Remove lid and simmer for about 6 minutes, using tongs to move the spaghetti around now and then so it doesn’t stick. Add kale or spinach and continue cooking until remaining liquid has reduced to a sauce and the pasta is cooked through. Taste, season with salt and pepper, and top with Parmesan.
Skillet ginger chicken with apricots
A simple yet surprising cast of ingredients creates a deeply flavorful one-pot meal made primarily from chicken thighs, white wine, ginger, apricot and spices. It’s reminiscent of long-simmered, well-spiced stewed dishes but comes together quickly. The earthy, warm spices contrast the sweetness of the silky red onions and apricots, which soften and plump in white wine, leaving a pool of flavorful liquid at the bottom of the skillet. Dried figs or prunes would be easy substitutes for the apricots. To take advantage of the fragrant pan sauce, serve with bread, lightly oiled orzo or rice.
By Yasmin Fahr Yield: 4 servings Total time: 35 minutes Ingredients:
• 1 tbsp plus 1 tsp grated or minced (unpeeled) fresh ginger
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 1 tsp ground coriander
• Kosher salt
• 1 1/2 lb boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 2-inch pieces
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced • 1 cup dried Turkish apricots, halved
• 3/4 cup white wine
• 2 to 3 packed cups baby spinach
• 2 packed tbsp fresh mint or cilantro leaves Preparation:
1. In a medium bowl, combine 1 tablespoon of ginger with the cumin, coriander and
1 teaspoon salt. Pat the chicken dry, then add to the bowl and toss to coat with the mixture.
2. Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high until shimmering. Add the onion, season with salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until just softened in texture and color, 3 to 4 minutes. Push the onion slices to the sides of the skillet, then add the chicken so that each piece has contact with the pan. (It’s OK if it’s crowded.) Cook, undisturbed, until the bottom is browned and releases easily from the skillet, 7 to 8 minutes more. Use tongs to flip the chicken and scatter the apricots around the skillet. 3. Cook until the other side of the chicken is no longer pink, about 2 minutes. Pour in the wine and remaining teaspoon of ginger. Use a spatula or wooden spoon to stir and scrape up anything on the bottom of the pan. Continue to stir to coat everything in the liquid until it’s mostly absorbed with a little pooling at the bottom, the chicken is cooked through and the apricots softened, about 3 minutes more.
4. Add the spinach, mixing until wilted, about 2 minutes more. Season to taste with salt. Sprinkle with mint and serve.
Kharra masala fish (fish with tomatoes and onions)
The classic sweet and sour combination of onion and tomato makes the base for this quick fish kharra masala. Optional mustard seeds add pungent flavor and pair well with lemon juice, ginger and the smoldering heat of dried round red chiles. Use any kind of white fish you like and add more onion for more sweetness. Serve this bright and punchy dish with rice or roti, or by itself. For a saucier dish that’s more like a curry, stir in a half cup of water, fish stock or coconut milk after Step 2
and bring to a simmer. By Zainab Shah Yield: 4 servings Total time: 25 minutes Ingredients:
• 2 tbsp ghee or neutral oil
• 1 tsp coriander seeds (optional)
• 1 tsp black mustard seeds (optional)
• 6 dried whole round red chiles, preferably Dundicut
• 1 medium Spanish onion, or white, finely chopped
• 1 tsp garam masala
• 1 tsp ground cumin
• 1/2 tsp ground turmeric
• 1 tsp kashmiri red chile powder
• 4 medium plum tomatoes, chopped
• 1 tsp fine sea salt
• 1 1/2 lb firm, skinless white fish, such as cod or haddock, cut into 3-inch pieces • Juice of 1 medium lemon, about 1/4 cup • 2 chopped Thai green chiles
• 1 (2-inch) piece of ginger, peeled and julienned
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh cilantro Preparation:
1. Heat ghee in a medium pot over medium until it melts, 30 to 45 seconds. Add the seeds and round red chiles. Stir continuously until fragrant, about 30 to 45 seconds.
2. Add onion. Stir occasionally, and continue cooking until it starts to turn golden brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garam masala, cumin, turmeric and chile powder. Add the tomatoes and salt, and stir so all the ingredients are evenly mixed. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes are tender and the oil starts to separate (you’ll see the oil form an outline around the jammy tomato), about 7 minutes. 3. Add the fish pieces in one layer, cover and let cook over low heat for 7 minutes. Remove the lid, and flip the fish pieces so they are coated with masala on all sides. Cover again and let it cook on low until the fish is cooked through, about 2 minutes. Top with lemon juice, green chiles, ginger and fresh cilantro. Serve with roti, rice or by itself.
Sheet-pan sausages, Brussels sprouts with honey mustard
This hearty pan of sticky, honey mustard-glazed sausages, Brussels sprouts and potatoes only adds to the argument that sheet-pan dinners make the best weeknight meals. As the sausages roast, they yield a delicious fat that coats and seasons the caramelized vegetables. Use any fresh sausage you like, as long as it pairs well with the honey mustard. Feel free to substitute or add other vegetables like squash, cherry tomatoes, broccoli, carrots or cabbage. The mustard seeds and nuts provide texture and crunch, but leave them out if you prefer.
By Ali Slagle Yield: 4 servings Total time: 30 minutes Ingredients:
• 1 lb fresh sausage, such as sweet or hot Italian, or bratwurst
• 1 lb Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved lengthwise
• 1 lb small potatoes, like baby Yukon gold or red potatoes, halved
• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
• Kosher salt and black pepper
• 4 tsp honey
• 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
• 1 tbsp yellow mustard seeds (optional) • 1/4 cup almonds or walnuts, chopped (optional)
Preparation: 1.
Heat oven to 450 degrees, and place a sheet pan in the oven. Score the sausages in a few places on both sides, making sure not to cut all the way through. Transfer to a large bowl with the Brussels sprouts, potatoes and 2 tablespoons olive oil, and stir until coated. (If the mixture seems dry, add a little more oil.) Season with salt and pepper.
2. Spread the mixture in an even layer on the heated baking sheet, and arrange the vegetables cut-sides down. Roast 15 minutes, until the sprouts and potatoes start to soften. (The sausages will not be cooked through yet.)
3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the honey, mustard and mustard seeds, if using.
4. Drizzle the honey mustard over the sausages and vegetables, and toss or shake to coat. Flip the sausages. Sprinkle with almonds, if using. Roast until the sausages are cooked through and the vegetables are golden and tender, another 10 minutes or so. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Lemony pearl barley soup
High in comfort, low in fuss, this pearl barley soup answers the question of what to cook when one doesn’t feel like cooking. Made with pantry staples, this simple soup beams with vibrancy. Lemon transforms this hearty soup into a dish that also feels light and restorative, while dill, used generously, reinforces the citrus flavor while bringing an assertive herbaceous edge. Other herbs could step in for dill; consider parsley, cilantro or chives. Spinach is added right at the end, after the heat is turned off, which ensures that the greens maintain a little bite and stay bright. The soup will thicken over time, so if you are making it ahead or have leftovers, simply loosen it up with more stock or water when reheating.
By Hetty Lui Mckinnon Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 45 minutes Ingredients:
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 yellow onion, finely diced
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 2 celery stalks, thinly sliced
• 1 cup chopped fresh dill leaves and stalks • Salt (preferably sea salt) and black pepper
• 1 cup/6 oz pearl barley
• 6 cups vegetable stock
• 3 to 4 tbsp lemon juice (from 1 large lemon), plus extra wedges to serve
• 2 oz baby spinach
• Greek yogurt, coconut yogurt or crème fraîche, to serve
Preparation: 1.
Heat a large pot over medium-high. Add 1 to 2 tablespoons of olive oil along with the onion and cook, stirring, until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic, celery, half the dill and 1/2 teaspoon salt and stir until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.
2. Add the pearl barley and stock and bring to the boil. Cover, reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the barley is swollen and tender, 25 to 30 minutes.
3. Turn off the heat. Add the lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper. Taste and make sure the seasonings are to your liking, adjusting salt and lemon as needed.
4. Stir in the spinach, allowing the residual heat to wilt the leaves.
5. Ladle the soup into bowls. Top with a dollop of yogurt and the remaining dill and drizzle generously with olive oil.