Signs of maturity

Best value:

Melville Santa Rita Hills Estate Pinot Noir 2012 (3 stars): Pale and restrained, with focus, finesse and earthy, peppery flavors of red fruit. $30 Chanin Santa Rita Hills La Rinconada Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012 (3 stars): Well balanced, with aromas and flavors of red fruit, herbs and minerals. $62 Lutum Santa Rita Hills La Rinconada Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012 (2 1/2 stars): Delicate, well structured and pretty, with aromas and flavors of flowers and red fruit. $55 Wenzlau Santa Rita Hills Estate Pinot Noir 2012 (2 1/2 stars): Taut and focused, with lean, lightly sweet flavors of red fruit. $49 Transcendence Santa Rita Hills F Street Pinot Noir 2013 (2 1/2 stars): Dark yet restrained, with flavors of red berries and minerals. $30 Domaine de la Côte Santa Rita Hills Bloom’s Field Pinot Noir 2012 (2 1/2 stars): Juicy, spicy and chewy, with lightly sweet flavors of red fruit; needs time. $73 Lompoc Wine Co. Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2012 (2 stars): Likable and easygoing, with straightforward flavors of herbs and red fruit. $20 Brewer-Clifton Santa Rita Hills Machado Pinot Noir 2012 (2 stars): Concentrated, with slightly exotic flavors of sweet red fruit and spices. $75 Foxen Santa Rita Hills John Sebastiano Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012 (2 stars): Well balanced, with lingering flavors of licorice, earth and red fruit. $48 Three Sticks Santa Rita Hills The James Pinot Noir 2012 (2 stars): Flavors of sweet red fruit balanced by strong acidity. $55

What the stars mean:

Ratings, up to four stars, reflect the panel’s reaction to the wines, which were tasted with names and vintages concealed. The wines represent a selection generally available in good retail shops and restaurants and on the Internet. Prices are those paid in the New York region.