Oolong: The beloved tea type

Oolong is a truly beloved type of tea throughout the world. It’s also one of the most expensive. Unlike the main types of tea (white, green and black) oolong is not solely defined based on a level of oxidation. It is actually semi-oxidized with levels ranging from 10%-80% and is described as being green (about 10% oxidation) or dark, which is close to a black tea, which has over 90% oxidation.

Part of what makes oolong expensive is the more complex process of its production. Oolong tea leaves are either plucked as a collection of three leaves — a new bud with two mature leaves connected — or as one large tea leaf.

After they’re plucked, withered, oxidized and fired, the leaves are “bruised” and rested multiple times. This process slightly breaks the leaves to release internal fluids, which changes the chemicals in the leaves by exposing these internal fluids to the air.

It also spreads the fluids along the surface of the leaves. Some oolong may go through as many as 50 bruisings during its production. As this requires more time and much more attention because it’s usually done by hand, this is partly why there is a price premium for it.

Because of the complex processing, oolong is more affected by the personal expression and style of the tea makers, regarding shape, color and taste.

The tea can have significant variations in all these areas. It can have fruity flavors such as peach or apricot or light and fresh flavors. It can also be more earthy in aroma and taste.

Regardless of the type of flavor an oolong has, it’s often deep and rich with a strong but sweet finish.

The tea leaves can be made into distinct physical styles. The two classical styles are Ball-rolled and Strip.

Ball-rolled are small and tightly shaped balls. You may have experience with gunpowder tea, which has a similar look, however, this is a green tea and not oolong. Oolong of this shape can grow quite large when steeped and it’s common for new oolong drinkers to use too many leaves for their first few brews.

Strip style is longer in length, but also tightly wound. The unsteeped length gives more of a warning

of its final size. Ball-rolled is often oxidized as a green, while a strip is more likely to be oxidized as a dark tea.

It’s common for oolong to have fanciful names, befitting the value and honor afforded them. Iron Goddess of Mercy (Ti Kuan Yin) is one of the more famous types from China. This is a lighter tea, oxidized like a green and is also called “monkey-picked.”

From Taiwan, the High Mountain Teas (Gaoshan) are the most valued, with Alishan the most known. Red Robe (Da Hong Poa) is a highly revered dark oolong. Another well-known oolong is Milk Oolong (Jin Xuan). It has a rich, milky flavor, but there are no milk or other dairy products in it. The flavor comes from the terroir of where the leaves are grown (China and Taiwan) combined with its manufacturing process.

Like most tea, China is still the primary place that oolong comes from. However, Taiwan is a source for some of the finest quality oolong in the world. Darjeeling, Sri Lanka and even Japan are all growing oolong-specific varietals of tea, now, but the mountains of Taiwan and China (high altitude is also an important criteria) are still considered the best places to source from.

If you are not familiar with oolong tea, I hope you will seek it out. One advantage it provides, beyond the wonderful taste, is that you can get multiple steepings from it. As the leaves are larger, the first steeping of an oolong usually does not bring out its full flavor. Additional steepings allow the leaves to open more and provide not just bigger, but deeper and more complex flavors. It’s often the third or fourth infusion that allows an oolong tea to show you what it truly offers.