Exploring the beauty of Northern California
Ynes Mexia, the botanical collector whose adult book I’m now writing, was interested in the tall coastal redwoods and joined the Save-the-Redwoods League in 1919. Her pet project was Montgomery State Redwood Preserve, which wasn’t a preserve at that time. Through her persistence, as well as many other people, these old growth redwoods were saved. A section of the Preserve holds Mexia Grove in remembrance of her.
Naturally, I thought it a good idea to visit the preserve to view and take pictures of the grove for the book. Montgomery Preserve is west of Ukiah, so I stayed there and drove the 13 miles to the preserve. This drive winds over a mountain and then down to the redwoods. Scattered along the way are cabins and a few farms. As I approached the redwoods a complex of buildings appeared which was quite busy with cars as the only sizable populated portion — perhaps a retreat or treatment center.
Then the redwoods caught and held my attention — as truly lovely as Mexia had written. Unfortunately, it was late in the day and my balance isn’t too good by that time so I could only stroll on even paths and not climb to the Mexia portion. Still — I had an opportunity to view fabulous old growth trees — and feel the peace a redwood grove can radiate.
Having driven to Ukiah, I could see no reason to then return home, so continued north on 101 to Eureka. We drove this portion of 101 often, usually taking the freeway for a faster trip. This time I could linger — which I did over the 29mile stretch of the Avenue of the Giants. I recalled when I had driven this beautiful road with my parents in 1947 on our way to Victoria. Then in the sixties Chuck and I and the children had toured it.
This journey was pure pleasure. The entire experience envelops you in a world of towering redwoods, ferns and other vegetation — right next to the road. It’s as if the redwoods are sentinels on guard. Several times I stopped for photos. At one stop was a “downed tree” — one that had fallen and become host for ferns and other plants. As I walked along the path several other trees had fallen and become “hosts” with trees, shrubs and ferns growing along entire trunks.
Eureka was as bustling as ever with cars and signals slowing the traffic. I discovered a road that skirts the main town along the waterfront — one I’ll keep in mind in the future. Dinner was in a waterfront restaurant overlooking the quiet harbor — with a five-star meal at a reasonable price. What a lovely way to end my day.
The next day I decided to get gas before starting over 299, missed a couple of turnoffs and ended up in Trinidad.
This is a beautiful drive through thick pines on both sides of the road and then a rock-surrounded ocean. Worth extra driving before heading east.
The first part of 299 is small farms, then a steady climb into the mountains with thick trees the entire route. Driving into a valley I came to Willow Creek, an active town of 1,700 with a variety of homes and cheap gas. Had planned to go north on Highway 96 but a fire stopped me so went on east on 299 seeing many small towns with the Trinity River alongside for miles.
Weaverville is an attractive tourist area with many B&B’s and historical spots. Over a small mountain and I was into the Carr Fire remains — which continued for miles on both sides of the highway. I was surprised to find that Whiskeytown Reservoir had been burned on all sides as well. The destruction from the fire went to the outskirts of Redding — heartbreaking to view. And as I write they are undergoing more fire destruction to the north around Shasta.
The 299 route goes through Redding then north at I-5 and the road I was traveling east becomes State 44. Houses, small acreages, and towns are at the beginning. Then wideopen country appears as it climbs slowly to 4,000 feet and into Lassen National Forest. I turned on Highway 89 to drive to Lassen National Park. I had forgotten about Lake Manzanita at the beginning of the park — so lovely.
A fascinating exhibit at the museum are photo displays of the 1914 eruptions taken in a 20-minute time frame by Benjamin Loomis and his wife. It’s hard to believe they were so close to this spectacle.
The drive through the park is well worth it for the views of the Sierras in the east and Mt. Lassen itself. With few tourists, I will return to enjoy it more in the future.