Annual grape harvest a family tradition for Lodi business
Armando Santibanez drives a forklift in a yard at Peirano Estate Vineyards & Winery in Acampo.
His baby boy, 15-monthold Adrian, laughs and bounces on his lap.
The morning sun just has risen and already it has been a long day for Armando, his wife, Virginia, and his brother Miguel, who operate Santibanez Agricultural Services in Lodi. Since 2 a.m., they and their crew have been hand-picking Syrah grapes for Peirano’s fourth-generation farmer, winemaker, general manager and owner, Lance Randolph. While much of the nighttime crew has gone home to grab some sleep, the Santibanez family and a second crew continue hand-picking bunches, depositing brimming white bins in the yard. On this day, they will pick 48 tons of grapes that will go into some of the wines that comprise Peirano’s 14-wine portfolio.
“We do a lot of labor and hand-picking for cherries, grapes, almonds and walnuts,” Armando Santibanez said. “Right now is the busiest time of the year.”
The wine grape harvest is going strong in Lodi, an area where 750 growers tend more than 100,000 acres of wine grapes. The days begin before the rooster crows and last until the work is done. The crews must start early in the morning when the temperature is cool to keep the grapes’ sugar levels stable and concentrate the flavors and aromas.
“It is hard work to beat the heat and to get all those grapes off the vine takes time,” Virginia said. “We get a head start and get all the loads the winery wants, and we pick them and get it all done.”
Randolph hired the Santibanez family two years ago after a contractor he had worked with for some 30 years couldn’t do the work anymore. The Peirano estate includes delicate 127-year-old, head-pruned Zinfandel vines, interspersed with other varieties, such as Petite Sirah, Syrah, Tempranillo and Malbec. Armando and his workers must consciously be aware and pick only the right variety on that particular day, a challenge as the grapes can be difficult to differentiate. The family also tends the vineyards during the dormant and growing seasons, performing such duties as pruning, shoot thinning and leaf removal.
“They have definitely been very responsive to our needs,” said Randolph, whose family started farming in Lodi in the late 1800s. “Armando, like his father, is quite competent and quite trustworthy and has made our harvest a lot easier. We do a lot of hand-picking and they’ve always been there when we needed them, and they’ve done a very good job with these head-pruned vines. We’re very pleased with them.”
Nael Santibanez, an immigrant from Guerrero, Mexico, was a labor contractor and started Santibanez Agricultural Services more than 30 years ago. Armando, 30 years old and a 2007 Lodi High graduate, has worked for the family much of his life, along with Virginia and Miguel. Nael recently passed away from cancer at age 58, so now it’s up to the family to continue running the business without its founder.
“He left us a legacy and we’re going to do our best to continue on with it,” Virginia said. “We take pride in hard work and dedication. We do everything we can to deliver and keep our clients happy.”
The Santibanez family had about eight crews with seven to 10 people in each working this week at Peirano Estate Vineyards. They are fortunate, in that, many of their employees return year after year. As a familyowned, family-oriented company, the Santibanezes treat their workers like family.
“We do for our people, so they do for us,” Virginia said.
Randolph said he appreciates seeing several of the same people on the Santibanez family’s crew.
“We like the generational scenario,” Randolph said. “They get to know the field.”
But the Santibañez family has not been immune to the challenges labor shortages have posed for agriculture statewide. Virginia said finding and retaining workers has been an issue.
“Every year it’s a struggle to get workers and make our crews,” Virginia said. “We’ve definitely been affected by all of these situations and conflicts.”
Armando said it was more difficult attracting workers last year than this year.
“Everybody’s scared to come out,” Armando said. “There are a lot of immigration checkpoints now.”
Virginia and Armando also have a 9-year-old son, Damian. Perhaps their boys will take over the family business some day.
“That’s what I’m shooting for,” Armando said. “I’m third generation, so hopefully it can continue.”