Lodi News-Sentinel

A former favorite is back, this time as ‘Big Belly Deli’

- STEVE HANSEN Steve Hansen is a Lodi writer. Contact him at news@lodinews.com

He’s back! Chris Troy, former owner of Cut the Mustard, located on the corner of East Pine and South Guild in Lodi, promises to make this establishm­ent better than ever. But a few changes have been made.

But Chris and the new owner, Howard Hipsher, have teamed up to make sure superior quality, which long-time customers remember, returns with a flair.

First of all, you’ll notice a name change for the business. “Cut the Mustard” is out, and the new banner is now known as the “Big Belly Deli.” Other than the name, loyal patrons will think they’ve stepped back in time.

To ensure product quality, top-of-the-line Boar’s Head meats will once again be used in finished products. Hipsher also will bake fresh bread right on the premises using a 100-year-old recipe. In addition, he’ll use bread from the famous “Jackie Loves Baking Co.” — especially known for their Dutch crunch.

If you still long for the most popular meals, Troy and Hipsher say the sandwiches are back just the way you remember them. A favorite was, and still is “The Godfather,” consisting of roast beef, cheddar cheese, bacon, mayonnaise and spicey mustard.

Two other “gotta have it” favorites are hot pastrami and “Old Trusty” — a turkey lip-smacker with cream cheese, romaine lettuce and fresh tomatoes.

But sandwiches aren’t the only thing the restaurant has been famous for. Popular soups are back, including the most sought-after clam chowder and cream of broccoli. Home-made brownies return not ripped from a package, but cut in squares from a baking pan.

Now, a bit about the new crew: Many of you know Chris and have patronized his shop for over 13 years. It was his life’s blood, and he loved the business. But personal tragedy struck when his relatively young wife passed from breast cancer.

She was his soulmate, and Troy still suffers from her loss. He also has two teenage daughters, who grieve for their mother as well. So, the business was sold, but things did not go as planned. As a consequenc­e, his good friend bought the business and is an entreprene­ur in his own right.

Howard Hipsher, who attended Tokay High School, has been in Lodi for a number of years. He owns Howard’s Manufactur­ing, a wood products operation, along with his own trucking business.

He and Troy have been friends for decades, and the team seems to be a perfect match for reviving the long-lost business.

Daily operations manager will be Kristen Nikzat, who has had years of experience in the restaurant business. She is Hipsher’s daughter, and he assures me her reputation makes the young woman a perfect match for the business.

Howard said his sister is working in the shop as well. “I like to see this new operation as a family business,” he told me.

Chris will be more of a “behind-the-scenes” consultant to make sure everything goes as planned. “We want to make sure all things come together just as our best customers remember it,” he said. “I hope to see many of my old friends, as well as new ones while things get underway.”

Catering will still be part of the business, and Hipsher said he already had orders for events even before the official grand opening last week. Hours are from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., Monday through Friday.

Hipsher hopes to eventually have Saturday hours once the eatery gets rolling.

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