DTOWN PIZZERIA
Ryan Ososky makes the closest faithful rendition of the puffed, rectangular, cheese-fringed Detroit pizza that I’ve found in Los Angeles. For his most traditional take, he blankets dough, spread over a blue steel pan, with a highly meltable mix that includes nutty-sweet Wisconsin brick cheese. Then he adds two red stripes — sometimes called racing stripes in honor of Motor City — down the center. It resembles a sideways Rothko. Snack on the caramelized edges, which snap off in satisfying pieces, before moving on to the airy center. Ososky also dabbles in some outré variations. A stuffed crust situation with meatballs and garlic confit is about as crazy as I’m willing to go; you can tell me your thoughts on the $100 pie covered with A5 Wagyu and truffle oil, my forever nemesis. These sturdy constructs handle takeout exceptionally well, though you can also grab a table at Phorage WeHo, out of which Dtown operates.
7326 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 229-2235, dtownpizzeria.com