Los Angeles Times (Sunday)

QUICK BITES

- — Stephanie Breijo

Tokyo ramen

> Tokyo-founded tonkotsu specialist Tonchin, launched by brothers Motohiro and Katsuhiro Sugeno in 1992, just landed its first L.A. outpost. The team opened its first U.S. location in Manhattan in 2017, then followed it with one in Brooklyn last year. The L.A. location will be most similar to Manhattan’s, with a coming full bar and a signature cocktail (currently it offers sake, beer, natural wine and tea). As with all Tonchin outposts, ramen is the focus, available with a variety of broths, including vegan miso and ginger as well as a smoked dashi option, and in a range of formats, such as dippable tsukemen. Try add-ons such as clams, corn and seasoned bamboo shoots. Small plates also are on offer — curry-and-cheese wings, unagi rice balls and gyoza — as are towering piles of kakigori for dessert. All bowls of ramen feature springy, fresh noodles made on-site. From a window just inside the entrance to Tonchin, guests can glimpse the “noodle room” where the team makes the wavy, customreci­pe ramen noodles via machine throughout the day. 5665 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 380-6072, tonchinnew­york.com

Mexican Riviera

> The internatio­nal group behind Toca Madeira recently debuted a modern Mexican restaurant atop West Hollywood’s Mondrian hotel. Casa Madera, an indoor-outdoor concept in 8,000 square feet, takes its inspiratio­n from the Mayan Riviera with a focus on seafood. A raw bar serves seafood towers, ceviche blanco, aguachile and oysters; starters include grilled octopus, albondigas and Mayan-inspired hummus. The opening seasonal taco menu from Noble 33 restaurant group executive chef A.J. McCloud includes duck carnitas, al pastor and tiger shrimp; entrées include steaks, pollo asado and sea bass. The bar program also takes its cues from coastal Mexico, and includes nonalcohol­ic cocktails. 8440 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 878-0814, thecasamad­era.com

Sushi sans fish

> An entirely plant-based sushi bar is now open in Sawtelle, replacing tuna and sailfish with the likes of tapioca and peas. Dillon Bolin, formerly of Encino’s Sushi Bar, leads the kitchen at Kusaki, which means “plant” in Japanese. Nigiri, hand rolls and maki come in options such as sweet corn with chile garlic, ponzu and yuzu-kosho aioli; miso eggplant with lemon and a sweet glaze; and a rainbow roll with seaweed caviar. Non-sushi options — such as avocado crispy rice, seared sesame tofu, tempura portobello mushroom and a shishito burger — are available. Enjoy an omakase menu, at $75 for five courses or $105 for seven, at the eight-seat chef ’s counter. A portion of each check benefits nonprofit One Tree Planted, which helps to restore Africa’s rainforest. 2535 S. Barrington Ave., Los Angeles, (424) 213-6844, kusakila.com

It’s a pizza city

> A new two-day pizza festival is headed to L.A. this spring, showcasing about 40 pizza makers and an array of styles with tastings and discussion panels. Pizza City Fest, created by food writer Steve Dolinsky, launched in Chicago last year; it comes to the events deck at L.A. Live on April 29 and 30. Participat­ing restaurant­s include Pizzana, L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele, Quarter Sheets, Ronan, Apollonia’s, De La Nonna, Little Coyote and the Rose. Panel discussion­s include how to make great pizza at home; making dough with Evan Funke and Daniele Uditi; and what “L.A.-style” pizza means. Single-day general-admission tickets are $95 and include drinks (alcoholic and nonalcohol­ic), 12 pizza slices and access to panels and book signings; single-day VIP tickets, at $175, include 16 slices and the aforementi­oned, plus early admission, a welcome toast, specialty food items, a VIP lounge, raffle entry, a shirt and a swag bag. 1005 Chick Hearn Court, Los Angeles, pizzacityf­est.com

 ?? Susana Sanchez Los Angeles Times ??
Susana Sanchez Los Angeles Times

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