Saltie Girl

8615 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood,

saltiegirl.com

Prices: Most tinned seafood $14-$63, small plates and starters $14-$34, most large plates $26-$48, smoked fish plates $20-$30.

Details: Tuesday-Wednesday 5-11 p.m., ThursdayFriday 5 p.m.-1 a.m., Saturday 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5 p.m.-1 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Full bar. Lot and street parking.

Recommended dishes: tinned seafood, warm lobster roll, spicy lobster spaghetti, moules frites.

in West Hollywood features an extensive conservas menu, left. Below left, the butterdrenched lobster roll and dishes including spicy lobster spaghetti and moules frites.

SALTIE GIRL

Some concoctions — I’m thinking specifically of a uni-on-toast situation punctuated with black sesame, shiso, lardo and fried garlic — over-earnestly check boxes for ingredients that shout “Los Angeles.” It isn’t necessary. We’re here for a righteous lobster roll, not an excessively precious, $34 cylinder of king crab and avocado rolled in soy paper.

One foray into culinary California that would be welcome? A few more seasonal vegetable dishes to lighten the blitz of richness and, wonderful as the tinned seafood is, weave in more freshness. Saltie Girl did turn up in winter, so fried Brussels sprouts and well-trodden salad ideas like beets with yogurt or radicchio with blue cheese and walnuts make sense, but our farmers markets are showing early signs of spring; I hope the kitchen takes inspiration duly.

Pastry chef and actor Ben Sidell, Kathy’s son, crafts the pastry program. Currently he makes an olive oil cake that he covers with beautifully supremed blood orange segments that make an endearing ofthe-moment statement. It’s a strong finish and a good start.