THE BEST DISHES OF 2023

IT’ S IMPOSSIBLE to summarize Los Angeles’ dining scene. For one, you’ll never get people to agree on its boundaries: L.A. County sprawls through the dense forests of the Angeles Mountains, the frayed hills of Santa Clarita and the beachside boardwalks that stretch from Santa Monica to Torrance. And that’s not counting the neighborhoods that sit just outside of those borders, whose residents often commute to and from the city and no doubt influence its eating habits. ¶ Plus, L.A. is always evolving, gaining transplants from out of state and internationally who share new culinary perspectives and approaches. Even well-established institutions keep diners guessing by introducing different chefs and shifting their menus with the seasons. Pop-ups are one way to become familiar with restaurateurs on the rise, though established chefs also use the format to experiment with fresh dishes before adding them to their menus. ¶ As we reflect on our most memorable meals of 2023, it’s hard to pinpoint a singular trend that dominated the year. Spots like Kato and Hayato continue to top The Times’ 101 best restaurants in L.A. list, impressing us with consistency and seemingly endless amounts of creativity. Celebrated chefs such as Evan Funke and Shenarri Freeman (New York City’s Cadence) launched new outposts to immediate fanfare, while others like Anajak Thai and Heritage BBQ kept us guessing in the best way possible with special, one-night-only meals. Weekend road trips are similarly revelatory, sating us with Santa Maria-style smoked meats. ¶ At first glance this list of favorite dishes might feel random, but that’s just par for the course when eating in L.A. These are some of the best dishes our food writers ate in 2023, and are hoping will manifest again in the new year: