Street Churros

Wu leans over the counter at Street Churros, a small cafe in the Atlantic Times Square strip mall, attempting to get a look inside the kitchen.

“I’m trying to see their setup,” he says. “I want to see what extruder they are working with.”

In the series, Charles Sun develops an obsession with churros. It’s a fondness that mimics Wu’s real-life obsession with the churro cart he frequents in Glassell Park.

“We wanted to pick a baked good and a dessert that felt very L.A.,” Wu says. “We felt like it just represented L.A. so well for someone coming from Taiwan, and I really liked how it’s like youtiao, and it made sense that Charles would latch onto it.”

Wu’s binge-watching “The Great British Baking Show” also led to that show being featured in the opening scene of the series.

“I did a lot of prep for this character with stunts and cooking,” Chien says. “Part of my prep was I baked a Japanese cheesecake. I was enjoying the process and I was like, I think that’s the reason why Charles enjoys it so much. It’s one of the few moments in his life where he can be on his own and do something somewhat normal and domestic. The rest of his life is very chaotic and violent.”

A man behind the counter hands Chien a hot churro in a paper sleeve. It’s shaped like a horseshoe and generously dusted in cinnamon and sugar.

“Should we both eat one end?” Chien asks.

“Like Lady and the Tramp?” says Wu.

They make an attempt, but the churro breaks in half and almost falls to the floor. Chien swoops his arm down at lightning speed for a quick save.

“It’s really good,” Chien says. “Crisp and chewy. I’ve had bad churros. Like sometimes it feels like cardboard. Or the ones where the star pattern is too aggressive.”

“This is right by a movie theater,” Wu says. “You can sneak them in! That’s what pockets are for. Churros.”