Newport Tan Cang Seafood Restaurant

518 W. Las Tunas Drive, San Gabriel, (626) 289-5998, newportseafood.com. 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sundays to Thursdays, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Beer and wine. Lot parking. Credit cards accepted. $$$ When friends stagger back from the San Gabriel Valley mumbling of lobster, lips numb with chile and their hearts filled with glee, they have almost certainly just come from this converted Marie Callender’s, where even strong men are defeated by the parade of sautéed pea shoots with garlic, crunchy salt-and-pepper squid and the gargantuan house-special lobster, 5 pounds or more, fried with heaps of chile, black pepper and chopped scallion, enough to haunt your fingernails for days. What Newport serves is Southeast Asian-inflected Cantonese food, kind of Chiu Chow but kind of not, although as far as I can tell, the Cambodian-born owners haven’t quite figured it out either.