Los Angeles Times

Real flavor of Mexico in Riviera Nayarit

- — Rosemary McClure

For those who love the road less traveled, the small towns and fishing villages of Riviera Nayarit offer a look at authentic Mexico.

The region, north of Puerto Vallarta in Nayarit state, includes nearly 200 miles of undevelope­d beaches along the Pacific coast, plus fishing villages, the historic colonial town of San Blas, and the resorts of Nuevo Vallarta and upscale Punta Mita.

It also includes portions of the legendary Sierra Madre range (remember “The Treasure of the Sierra Madre” with Humphrey Bogart?).

Some communitie­s can be reached easily as day trips from Puerto Vallarta. San Blas, about a four-hour drive north of Vallarta, could also be used as a base. Here’s a quick look at a few places where you can find the real Mexico:

San Francisco: Mexico’s version is nothing like California’s. This quiet beach town, also known as San Pancho, is about an hour’s drive north of Puerto Vallarta, but is a world apart. Explore its cobbleston­e streets and wide, palmfringe­d beach. There’s a small U.S. expat community here, but the town has preserved its rural essence and authentici­ty.

Santa María del Oro: If you enjoy mountains (and curvy mountain driving), head into the Sierra Madre to the lake region, known as Lagunas Encantadas, in central Nayarit. It is composed of three lakes, or lagoons: Santa María del Oro, San Pedro Lagunillas and Tepetiltic. During the summer, the region offers cooler temperatur­es, a low-key place to relax and some of the region’s best fishing. If you visit you’ll probably want to spend the night because of the long, slow drive to reach the lakes.

Compostela, Nayarit: This city, part of a region called Nayarit Colonial, offers a look at monuments, architectu­re and archaeolog­y influenced by the Spanish Conquest. In Compostela, Nayarit, founded in 1540, be sure to visit the cathedral, which dates to the 16th century, the wide plaza and the mercado . Remnants of the colonial era can also be seen in Tepic, Ixtlán del Río and Ahuacatlán.

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