No couch potatoes here

BY NOELLE CARTER Properly made, comfort food is an art. Mashed potatoes are no exception — and, let’s face it, the Thanksgiving table simply isn’t complete without them. And though personal preference may have a lot to do with what you might consider the perfect mash — do you like your potatoes smooth or lumpy? creamy or fluffy? — there are nevertheless some tips you can follow to elevate your spuds above the rest of the pack.

you To use? start, For what light potatoes or delicate should mashed potatoes, use bakers, like russets. With their high starch content and low sugar, they’ll whip up nice and fluffy, perfect for soaking in all the cream, butter and sour cream you can throw at them. If you prefer mashed potatoes that are denser, more likely to more like rustic “smashed potatoes,” use boilers. Whether to keep the skin on is one of those personal-preference things. I generally peel the potatoes if they have thicker skins — the skins can be a bit chewy. If I’m using thinskinned potatoes (Yukon Gold, say, or reds) and I’m going for a more rustic look, I’ll leave them on. More tips? Store peeled potatoes in a bowl of cool water — make sure they’re immersed — before cooking to keep them from browning. And don’t cut the potatoes before you boil them; cook them whole. Because cut potatoes are soak up water as they cook, and nobody wants soggy mashed potatoes. Mash the potatoes while they’re still hot for the lightest texture. If you’re looking for fluffier texture, run the potatoes through a ricer or use a potato masher. This is one step best done by hand, so skip the electric mixer as it’s easy to overwork the potatoes, and nobody wants gummy mashed potatoes, either.

And don’t forget the love — starting with the butter. Add some butter for richness and cream or milk to give the potatoes the desired consistency. For a little tang, fold in a touch of sour cream or yogurt. Get fancy and add chopped fresh herbs: chives, rosemary or maybe sage. Or if you really want to dress up your spuds, add a head of roasted garlic. This is Thanksgiving — amp it up.

Mel Melcon Los Angeles Times ROASTED GARLIC and the skins of red boilers dress up mashed potatoes. Follow a few simple tips to avoid sogginess or gumminess and they can be comfort food art.