Los Angeles Times

Upscale, without ditching its grit

There’s still an anythinggo­es attitude, whether it’s lifestyle or architectu­re.

- By Scott Garner

Venice was conceived and built in the early 1900s, once part of a string of Southland coastal amusement parks that stretched from Santa Monica’s Pleasure Pier to the Pike in Long Beach.

It was a time so genteel that men’s and women’s bathing suits ran from ankle to neck, and attraction­s like ballroom dancing, a saltwater swimming lagoon and languorous gondola rides through man-made canals could draw a million or so visitors a year.

Venice founder Abbot Kinney took a coastal marshland, drained it with a series of canals and created a planned community that would use those same canals as a selling point, pouring $500,000 into improvemen­ts that one contempora­ry flier trumpeted as “characteri­stic of the original Venice” (that would be the one in Italy).

Annexation by the city of Los Angeles in the late 1920s meant big changes for Venice. The original canals were paved over, and the lagoon was replaced by the Windward Avenue traffic circle, though the canals to the south, which were not built by Kinney, were spared.

Venice went into a long decline punctuated by an oil boom that turned the beach into a forest of wooden derricks, and by the 1940s rents were so low that artists began to move into the area to take advantage of the affordable coastal living.

The creative community that formed included Charles and Ray Eames, Ed Ruscha and the Doors. The area also became a hotbed for architectu­ral experiment­ation in the 1970s and ’80s, with seminal works by Frank Gehry, Morphosis and others. Now many startups, including Snapchat, make their homes in Venice.

The neighborho­od endured significan­t gang violence in crime in the ’80s and ’90s, but Venice today is increasing­ly an upscale neighborho­od — although the boardwalk remains, as always, a pleasingly gritty experience. Abbot Kinney Boulevard is a premier shopping and dining destinatio­n, and the ultramoder­n homes of tech executives and celebs now sit up against modest cottages that date from the original Venice of America tracts.

Neighborho­od highlights

A feast for the senses: From the weird and wonderful boardwalk to the tranquil canals fronted by beautiful homes old and new, Venice offers some of the most unusual sights and experience­s in L.A. Dining and drinking: From upscale Abbot Kinney Boulevard to earthy Ocean Front Walk, there is a wide range of places no matter how much (or how little) you’re willing to spend. Whether you prefer having a cold PBR at the Townhouse or sharing a bottle of wine over dinner at Gjelina, Venice has something for everyone.

Architectu­re: Gawk at the exterior of both of the Eames’ Venice workshops, take a photo next to Frank Gehry’s binoculars in front of Google’s L.A. headquarte­rs or browse through the galleries on Abbot Kinney.

The beach: It’s not just a beach, it’s the quintessen­tial L.A. beach. Surfing, skateboard­ing, bike riding, fishing, Muscle Beach, graffiti and amazing sunsets — it’s no

wonder tourists flock there.

Neighborho­od challenges

High demand and low housing stock are driving up prices and creating pressure to tear down older homes to make way for huge infill homes. Like everywhere in L.A., Venice is struggling to find a way to balance market forces with the preservati­on of neighborho­od character.

Expert insight

“You can really be yourself in Venice, which is what I like,” said Tami Pardee, a real estate agent and chief executive of Halton Pardee and Partners on Abbot Kinney. “You can go from one type of lifestyle to another very quickly here and be accepted.”

People are flocking there, so prospectiv­e buyers will often run into a multiple-offer situation, she said. She recommends submitting backup offers just in case things fall through and encourages people to broaden their search. “People want to be west of Lincoln,” she said. But “you have to open your mind up to other areas, because they are up-and-coming.”

Market snapshot

The 90291 and part of 90292 make up the Venice area. In March, based on 18 sales, the median price for single-family homes in the 90291 ZIP Code was $1.825 million, according to CoreLogic. In 90292, the median was $1.808 million based on three sales.

Report card

Coeur D’Alene Avenue Elementary tops the list with a score of 911 out of 1,000 in the 2013 Academic Performanc­e Index. Broadway Elementary had a score of 885, Westminste­r Avenue Elementary scored 841, and Walgrove Avenue Elementary scored 804. Westside Leadership Magnet scored 787, and Mark Twain Middle had 715.

 ?? Mel Melcon Los Angeles Times ?? AN ETERNAL draw is Venice Beach, where beginner surfers, above, head for the water. The boardwalk is a major attraction as well.
Mel Melcon Los Angeles Times AN ETERNAL draw is Venice Beach, where beginner surfers, above, head for the water. The boardwalk is a major attraction as well.
 ?? angelica Quintero Los Angeles Times ??
angelica Quintero Los Angeles Times
 ?? Christina House ?? A VARIETY of architectu­re is found throughout Venice. Above are homes along the community’s canals. Some of the canals were paved over almost a century ago.
Christina House A VARIETY of architectu­re is found throughout Venice. Above are homes along the community’s canals. Some of the canals were paved over almost a century ago.
 ?? Genaro Molina Los Angeles Times ?? THE ROSE CAFE, on Rose Avenue near Main Street, is among the eclectic restaurant offerings.
Genaro Molina Los Angeles Times THE ROSE CAFE, on Rose Avenue near Main Street, is among the eclectic restaurant offerings.

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