Los Angeles Times

FROM BIG CITIES TO PUEBLOS PEQUENOS

Urban meets tranquil in Mexico

- —PAUL ROGERS Custom Publishing Writer

hether your dream vacation is dozing in a hammock to a soundtrack of lapping waves or franticall­y checkWing off tourist must-sees, Mexico has a destinatio­n for you. From the vibrant, sprawling metropolis of Mexico City to charming colonial-era towns and best-kept-secret beach communitie­s, our southern neighbor offers so much more than just all-inclusive resorts and cheap-and-cheerful party weekends.

Ranked from large to small, here are five Mexico getaways that collective­ly offer something for every level of energy, curiosity and sense of adventure.

MEXICO CITY (population 9 million)

The Americas’ oldest capital, founded in 1325 as Tenochtitl­an, Mexico City has preserved portals into history amid its contempora­ry urban bustle. The vast National Museum of Anthropolo­gy comprises indoor and outdoor exhibits spanning prehistory to the present, including a spectacula­r reconstruc­tion of the tomb of seventh century Mayan ruler Pakal. Towering above the city’s Zocalo plaza, the Metropolit­an Cathedral took more than 200 years to build, resulting in multiple architectu­ral styles. Its regular Voices of the Cathedral candlelit tour, accompanie­d by period choral music, only amplifies its majesty. Mexico City’s many annual celebratio­ns include the Internatio­nal Festival of Lights, which transforms its historic center into an otherworld­ly nocturnal canvas.

QUERETARO CITY (population 800,000)

Some 130 miles northwest of Mexico City, Queretaro consistent­ly ranks among Mexico’s fastest-growing, safest and wealthiest cities. Yet in the shadows of its gleaming new buildings are evocative colonial echoes that earned UNESCO World Heritage Site status. Unmissable is Queretaro’s nearly 400-yearold aqueduct, a beautifull­y maintained marvel curving more than three quarters of a mile through the city. Much local tourism revolves around the pedestrian-friendly city center, where the geometrica­lly arrayed streets of its onetime Spanish occupiers are lined with fine 17th- and 18th-century baroque facades. For here-and-now thrill seekers, the terrain and temperate climate of the surroundin­g region enable stimulatin­g rock climbing, kayaking and ATV adventures.

CAMPECHE CITY (population 220,000)

Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Campeche has antique cannons pointing seaward from its colonial-era walls, as if still expecting the plundering buccaneers of old. With restored pastel buildings overlookin­g narrow cobbled streets, the historical center of this understate­d Yucatan Peninsula gem is an escapist haven from frantic modern life, yet remains mysterious­ly absent from most tourists’ radar. Centrally located on the Gulf of Mexico, it’s a gateway to the Mayan remains of Edzna and numerous surprising­ly undervisit­ed sites in that civilizati­on’s Chenes architectu­ral style. Outside of town, excellent fishing (notably in the Petenes Ecological Preserve) biking, hiking, wildlife photograph­y and horseback riding opportunit­ies abound.

ZIHUATANEJ­O (population 62,000)

Zihuatanej­o is well cast as the dream escape in 1994 movie “Shawshank Redemption.” A backwater Guerrero-state fishing village until the 1970s, it has grown exponentia­lly since the developmen­t of glittering resorts in nearby Ixtapa. Yet the town itself, situated on a natural Pacific Ocean bay popular with private boaters and cruise ships alike, has maintained a quietly unpretenti­ous air. An unusually friendly throwback bolt-hole beloved by privacy-seeking celebritie­s, “Zihau” offers almost guaranteed hot weather, warm water and super-fresh seafood served along cartoonish­ly perfect coconut palm-fringed beaches — and all just a three-and-a-half-hour flight from L.A.

PLAYA ZIPOLITE (population 900)

With a lingering hippie aura and no enforced building codes, Zipolite looks like it spontaneou­sly sprang up along a mile of unspoiled Oaxaca beach. A cosmopolit­an backpacker­s’ paradise with mostly thatch-roofed buildings and only basic accommodat­ions, it’s famed as one of Mexico’s few nude beaches. Though tiny, it boasts quite a variety of causal eateries, many operated by European expatriate­s. Decidedly rustic and with dangerous offshore currents, Zipolite isn’t for families or the faintheart­ed, but for travelers who can accept (or even welcome) sparse convenienc­es: air conditioni­ng is rare and there’s only a single ATM. This is perhaps Mexico’s ultimate backto-basics recharging station

 ?? Photo courtesy Queretaro Travel and Mexico Tourism Board ?? A look at the ancient past at the El Cerrito archeologi­cal site
Photo courtesy Queretaro Travel and Mexico Tourism Board A look at the ancient past at the El Cerrito archeologi­cal site
 ?? Photo courtesy of Queretaro Travel and Mexico Tourism Board ?? A 400-year-old aqueduct in Queretaro City
Photo courtesy of Queretaro Travel and Mexico Tourism Board A 400-year-old aqueduct in Queretaro City

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