SCOOT THOSE BOOTS ALL OVER THIS TOWN
BY JAY JONES
Thousands of cowboys descend on Pendleton, Ore., each September during Round-Up, the huge rodeo for which this town is best known. (It’s Sept. 13-16 this year.) But as I discovered during a winter visit, the boots, hats and saddles don’t disappear once the bull ropers have left. Pendleton, along Interstate 84 about 3 1⁄2 hours east of Portland, has a genuine Western feel year-round. Visitors can watch as as fine leather gear and the famous wool blankets that bear the town’s name are made. The tab for two, excluding airfare and car rental: $185 for a room with private bath at Pendleton House Historic Inn and $100 for dinner at Virgil’s at Cimmiyotti’s. THE BED
Pendleton House Historic Inn is a refreshing alternative to the usual roundup of chains I drove past along the interstate. The rooms are well-appointed, but repeat guests told me it’s the homecooked breakfasts, which are included, that bring them back. I savored the eggs Benedict with crab as well as granola, fresh fruit and a hearty side of bacon. A room with a shared bath costs $135 a night; rooms with private baths start at $185. THE MEAL
Hometown favorites abound, but I found Virgil’s at Cimmiyotti’s to be the spot where movers and shakers gather for drinks and dinner. The house specialties include Virgil’s Oscar (beef medallions topped with crabmeat, bacon and béarnaise sauce for $29) and rack of lamb (with a garlic and rosemary sauce for $31). For a more casual meal, the locals flock to the Rainbow Cafe for breakfast, lunch and dinner. THE FIND
See leather saddles being made (and sold) at Hamley & Co. or across the street at Rod Retherford Saddlery and Cowboy Art. Richard Stapleman, a former bull rider, told me he began making boots in 1999 for his own use; he now welcomes visitors to watch as he creates custom footwear in his shop, Staplemans Boots and Leather. Pendleton Woolen Mills continues to make the blankets it first sold to local Indians in 1909 and also offers tours. The mill provides exclusive patterns for sale in the gift shop at Tamastslikt Cultural Institute, home to an excellent museum. THE LESSON LEARNED
Boutique Air flies between Portland and Pendleton and offers car rentals in the eastern Oregon community through Boutique Car. Until recently there were no rental car firms in town.