Los Angeles Times

Try these sparkling five

- — Patrick Comiskey

Here are five brands to get acquainted with. Routinely difficult vintages mean that these wines don’t come cheap: Expect to pay at least $40, but the quality is there.

Ridgeview, South Downs Founded in the early ’90s, Ridgeview is managed by Robin Langton, who worked in the U.S. with, among others, Patz & Hall. These are fine, classic cuvées, with the 2013 Blanc de Blancs an especially sexy and lifted wine, with scents of green apple and pomelo, citrusy flavors bearing a hint of toasty lees, and a lemon-rind finish.

Wiston Estate Winery, South Downs An irrepressi­ble Irishman named Dermot Sugrue makes the wines at Wiston Estate Winery, in a repurposed turkey farm. The estate’s NV Brut is in fact all from the 2013, since 2012 was such a dreadful vintage. The aromas are fine and lifted, almost delicate. The flavors are nothing of the kind: assertive and resolute, with fruit tones that run from lemon to passion fruit, with remarkable persistenc­e and length.

Nyetimber, Sussex One of the country’s more visible wine brands, Nyetimber winery, was establishe­d in 1992; the estate itself is old enough to be mentioned in the Domesday Book. Nyetimber makes a NV Classic Cuvée of exceptiona­l elegance, with a fine, delicate mousse, a lemony scent and detailed flavors that angle toward yuzu and lime, with a coyly tangy and mineral grip.

Hush Heath Estate, Kent Hush Heath Estate is a relatively new winery, devoted largely to rosé wines, from Kent, southeast of London. Proprietor Richard Balfour-Lynn blends Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in his Balfour Brut Rosé ,a wine with the scents of green plum and white cherries, and a firm, appley acidity lent some grip by red grape tannins.

Gusbourne, Kent Gusbourne is another ancient estate in Kent (dating back to 1410) with relatively new (2010) aspiration­s in fine wine. Gusbourne works with properties from both Sussex and Kent. The 2013 Blanc de Blancs is remarkably pithy and dry at the outset, with scents of lemon rind and a smattering of fresh herbs marking citrusy flavors; there’s a stirring core of acidity and a talc-like finish. You can find selections at John & Pete’s Fine Wine and Spirits in West Hollywood, Lincoln Fine Wines in Venice, K&L Wine Merchants in Hollywood, Vendome Wine & Spirits in North Hollywood and wine.com.

 ?? Tom Merton Getty Images / Caiaimage ?? SPARKLING wine is popular in England, taking up more than two-thirds of its wine production.
Tom Merton Getty Images / Caiaimage SPARKLING wine is popular in England, taking up more than two-thirds of its wine production.

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