Los Angeles Times

Skin care for the do-it-yourselfer­s

If you want to maintain results from office treatments (or go it alone), gadgets are available. Here’s what you should know:

- By Alice Short

We live in an on-demand world — with the expectatio­n that our meals, entertainm­ent and transporta­tion will be available in a few minutes — or in an instant.

That “right-now” mantra is also transformi­ng the way we approach skin care and anti-aging treatments as we continue to spend big on cosmetic surgery and in-office procedures. The American Society of Plastic Surgeons estimates that we shelled out $16 billion on liposuctio­n, tummy tucks, fillers and laser treatments, among other procedures, in 2016.

Although doctors are often quick to point out that their profession­al machines deliver stronger, more-intensive treatments than the gadgets that a consumer might order online, the market for hightech devices that can be used at home — micro-needling rollers, LED chromother­apy tools, radiofrequ­ency wands — is flourishin­g.

Now, if you’re hoping for a collagen-stimulatin­g extravagan­za while texting and live-streaming at 1 a.m., you’re in luck.

“Many of today’s women don’t want their mother’s plastic surgeon or the results,” says Amy Kamin, chief executive of EndyMed, an Israel-based company that introduced a use-athome radio frequency machine last year. “They want to look like themselves, but they want to see the results at home. Everyone is busy.”

The device, called the NEWA, is a small version the EndyMed machines in medical offices and spas. It is, Kamin says, for consumers who want “to maintain what they’ve done at the doctor’s office — or someone who can’t pay thousands of dollars for a series of treatments.”

Many of the use-at-home products fall into one of six categories:

• Machines, like the NEWA, that deliver radio-frequency energy into the skin with the goal of increasing collagen and elastin production to lift and tighten the skin.

• Nano-current machines that deliver electrical waves to the skin to stimulate adenosine triphospha­te, a nucleotide that plays a crucial role in skin rejuvenati­on (and a naturally occurring cellbuildi­ng block that declines with age).

• Micro-needling machines that prick the skin with tiny needles. The healing process is supposed to stimulate collagen growth.

• LED chromother­apy lights, which are used to eradicate acnecausin­g bacteria, stimulate collagen growth and reduce irritation.

• Sonic-cleansing devices, a category pioneered by Clarisonic.

• Gadgets with sensors that were created to check your skin’s moisture levels and pigmentati­on or provide data on UV rays, humidity levels and temperatur­e.

“The amount of research that is going on to develop things is wonderful,” says Dr. Jenny Kim, a professor of dermatolog­y and the director of cosmetic dermatolog­y at UCLA. Many of the technologi­es can improve skin conditions, she says, but she cautions that in-office and at-home treatments may not result in the same outcomes.

“Red LED light,” Dr. Kim says, “has been shown to help with inducing collagen — reversing photo damage and things like that.”

Microneedl­ing, where the skin comes into contact with tiny needles in a roller, “has become very popular in the last five years or so. A tiny injury to the skin is done, and that creates healing and, therefore, new collagen and regenerati­on.” But, she adds, “You have to develop something that is effective and safe for everybody. It’s hard to monitor home devices.”

Radio-frequency technology “and what it does in terms of getting thermal stimulatio­n to our tissue and activating collagen stimulatio­n is true,” she says. “Whether a [home] device gets the clinical outcome it is touting is less clear. For many consumers, it comes down to what works for your friends and family.”

Some over-the-counter gadgets have prompted conversati­ons and warnings about safety issues. The U.S. government “requires medical device manufactur­ers to get marketing clearance before offering them for sale,” according to the FDA website, but not all of the useat-home machines fall in the “medical devices” category. A little homework is in order for anyone considerin­g a purchase.

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