Deviled eggs with Champagne vinegar

55 minutes. Makes 24 deviled eggs

12 hard-boiled eggs, cooled, peeled and halved lengthwise ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons

mayonnaise, slightly chilled 2 tablespoons Champagne

vinegar 2 tablespoons crème fraîche 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

Salt

¼ cup finely chopped chives 2 tablespoons finely chopped chervil Cayenne or paprika powder Sea salt (optional) for garnish Extra-virgin olive oil (optional), for drizzling Maldon or another flaky sea salt (optional), for garnish

1. Press the yolks through a sieve into a small food processor. Add the mayonnaise, vinegar, crème fraîche, and mustard and process until smooth, scraping down the sides as necessary. Season with 3⁄8 teaspoon salt, or to taste. This makes about 1 1⁄2 cups filling.

2. For really pretty eggs, feed the mix into a pastry bag (alternatively, you can rig one with a large resealable plastic bag; snip off a corner before piping). Pop it into the fridge for 30 minutes. Put the egg whites on a plate, cover with plastic wrap, and put them in the fridge as well.

3. Pat the whites dry with a kitchen towel and pipe an equal amount of the yolk mixture into each white. Top each one off with a sprinkle of chives and chervil and a dusting of cayenne or paprika. If you like, add a sprinkle of sea salt and a drizzle of olive oil and serve.