If you go

GETTING THERE

From LAX, Air China, Asiana, China Southern, Delta, Korean and United offer connecting service (change of planes) to Vientiane. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $832. My travel in the interior was by plane, bus and boat.

WHERE TO STAY

Garden Hotel, 056 Sihome Road, Vientiane; www.vientianegardenhotel.com. Clean, lovely. Has a swimming pool and is set back from busy Sihome Road. Also a travel agency. Doubles from $50. Thavonsouk Resort, Vangviang; www.thavonsouk.com. Affordable luxury resort right on the river with river-view restaurant. Doubles from $50. Viphaphone Hotel, main road at four-way intersection, in

Phongsali; lat.ms/viphaphone. Newly renovated hotel with Western-trained staff. Doubles from $12. Pan’s Guesthouse, Mekong Road, Don Khon; www.pansresidence.com/en-us. All-inclusive breakfast. Lovely bungalows on river with air-conditioning, mini fridge and hammocks. Will arrange kayaking and motorbike tours. Doubles from $20.

WHERE TO EAT

Lao Kitchen, 140/01, Rue Hengboun, Vientiane. Best place for laab, national dish made of duck, chicken or beef with fried shallots, mint leaves, lime juice, roasted ground rice and chiles. Mains $3.50-$9. In Vangviang, be adventurous and join the locals at the street stalls lining the old abandoned airport. Peruse the steaming pots of rice, vegetables and grills topped with chicken, fish and beef. About $1 to $3, and the beer is cold. Laoper Restaurant, Phongsali. Mains $2-$4. Lao and Chinese food considered best in town. Chanthounma’s Restaurant, Don Khon, is one of the many inexpensive eateries you’ll find along the main dirt road and is a mainstay.

TO LEARN MORE

Lao National Tourism Administration, Lane Xang Avenue, Vientiane; 21-212-248, www.tourismlaos.org TCK Adventures, 115 River Road, Vangviang, lat.ms/tckadventures Amazing Lao Travel, main road, Phongsali, www.explorephongsalylaos.com