Mac ’n’ cheese

About 1 hour. Serves 10.

1 pound elbow macaroni or cavatappi pasta 1 quart milk ½ cup plus 3 tablespoons (1 stick plus 3 tablespoons) butter, divided 1⁄2 cup flour 4 cups grated (about 1 pound) Gruyère cheese 2 cups (about 1¼ pounds) grated extra-sharp cheddar cheese, divided 2 cups (about ½ pound) grated smoked Gouda cheese, divided 1⁄2 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 ⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Kosher salt 1 1⁄2 cups panko bread crumbs 3⁄4 cup drained and chopped pickled jalapeño chiles

1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the macaroni and cook according to the directions on the package. Drain.

2. Place the milk in a small saucepan and heat over medium heat to warm; be careful to watch that the milk does not come to a boil.

3. In a large pot, melt 6 tablespoons butter over low heat, then whisk in the flour. Cook over low heat until the mixture comes together to form a roux, about two minutes. Whisk in the hot milk and cook, stirring, until the mixture thickens, about two minutes. Stir in the Gruyère, 1 1/2 cups cheddar and 1 cup of the Gouda cheese. Remove the pot from heat and stir in the nutmeg, black pepper and salt to taste. Add the macaroni and stir. Pour the mixture into a 9- by 13-inch baking dish.

4. Melt the remaining 5 tablespoons of butter. In a bowl, stir together the butter, bread crumbs, remaining cheddar and Gouda. Sprinkle the mixture over the top of the baking dish. About 5 minutes before the dish is finished, sprinkle over the chopped jalapeños.

5. Bake until the top is golden brown and the macaroni and cheese is bubbly, about 35 minutes. Remove and cool slightly before serving.

Note: Adapted from a recipe from Ina Garten.