FOR THOSE WHO KEEP AN EYE ON THE BALL
“Are you going to Indian Wells?” That’s the question bouncing around tennis courts every year about this time. And my answer is always yes. I have been road tripping to the BNP Paribas Open at the Indian Wells Tennis Garden every March since before billionaire Larry Ellison’s purchase in 2009 transformed the tournament and venue into a veritable Disneyland for tennis fans. Last year nearly half a million made the pilgrimage to the desert. The tournament lasts a fortnight (this year March 4-17) and feels like spring break for grownups as much as it does a sporting event. There are Champagne bars that glow neon pink at night, live bands and pop-up shops with the latest court fashions. The best part, though, is being able to hop from court to court (there are nine) to watch the tennis gods crush balls just feet from my chair. The tab: about $1,400 for two nights, plus meals and tickets.
THE BED
I like to go big and book a room at the Renaissance Indian Wells Resort & Spa because that’s where many of the players stay. For $450 a night, my husband and I are guaranteed to bump into tennis stars at the breakfast buffet or the pool, which has a sandy beach, mountain views and a cocktail bar. The resort also has a free shuttle to the Tennis Garden.
THE MEAL
There are 20 places to eat on the grounds of the Tennis Garden but only two restaurants you might arm wrestle your spouse over. Nobu is in Stadium 2, but I prefer celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck’s Spago, open only to Stadium 1 ticket holders. The only thing more sublime than watching Roger Federer float around the court flicking winners is watching Federer float around the court while I’m eating a black truffle pizza for dinner.
THE FIND
Unlike other professional sports where you need big bucks for front-row access, anyone with a $50 daily grounds pass can snag a seat along 20 sunken practice courts to eavesdrop on players while they polish their shots. This is where you can propose to Rafael Nadal (a common occurrence). Last year I was watching Novak Djokovic warm up when Mike Tyson walked out to shake hands.
THE LESSON LEARNED
Stadium 1 box-seat ticket packages can cost thousands, but that’s unnecessary. A $60 day pass gets you into courts 2-9, which are smaller and rowdier — a bonus — plus admission to the upper bowl of Stadium 1 (and entry to Spago).