Fun Under the Sun
Summer solstice in Taiwan highlights geographic gems
Southern California is getting a rare subtropical treat after winter rains — a verdant landscape awash with wildflowers and spring splendor. Greenery in a semi-arid region is lovely for those of us used to tones of taupe. In the Tropic of Cancer region, lush plant life is even rarer, with a notable exception — the unique and gorgeous topography of Taiwan. The island off the coast of China is known for cosmopolitan, modern cityscapes. The soaring mountains in the island’s center contribute to its weather patterns. The peaks trap rain-producing clouds, giving the island a tropical feel despite sharing a latitude line with the Sahara desert.
And that greenery does more than just look pretty. Taiwan’s slopes are a jewel of the region’s agriculture, especially when it comes to growing fine teas. The island’s western and central counties produce a stunning range of varieties including oolongs, greens and even whites.
This season, the island nation celebrates its geography and bounty with a nod to the summer solstice, called the Formosa Summer Festival. If you want to keep seeing green, now’s the perfect time to plan a trip. IN THE SUN’S PATH Summer solstice in the Tropic of Cancer means the sun is directly overhead. Taiwan, being on the tropic’s latitude line, celebrates this seasonal shift annually. There’s even a monument to mark its significance. The Ruisui Tropic of Cancer Marker in Hualien County was constructed in the early 1980s in the rural county south of Taipei. The modernist piece, featuring a soaring sundial-like spire, offers a reminder of the solstice on June 22 of each year: When the sun is directly overhead, the spire casts no shadow whatsoever.
Astronomical phenomena aside, the season is important in Taiwan. The Formosa Summer Festival highlights many aspects of the island, including its agrarian production, cuisine, arts and even transportation, which is itself a highlight. To reach the solstice monument, you can hop on the Taiwan Railways Administration Eastern Line heading south out of Taipei. Enjoy the scenery, and then simply deboard and walk to the monument from the Ruisui station. With a ticket price of under $20, it’s the best and easiest way to travel to the seasonal celebration.
A TEA PARADISE
Twenty percent of the world’s oolong teas hail from Taiwan, and while the name is instantly recognizable, its variations are countless. Taiwan’s specific growing regions and mountainous microclimates give distinction to teas the way Napa’s foggy and sunny valleys lend flavorful notes to wine. There are even tasting rooms akin to a vineyard’s wine counter.
Taiwan’s highlands are home to many special varieties of tea. Some oolong strains only grow in regions above 3,000 feet, with rare plants thriving in chilly, even icy conditions. These “High Mountain” teas are among the most prized.
The best part of these tea regions? Paying them a visit and seeing the scenery for yourself. From tiered gardens to high-altitude mountain villages, taking a sip of tea where it’s grown is a rare opportunity to connect with the beverage, its culture and the people who make the cultivar their life’s work. Several tours leaving from Taiwan’s major cities can be day trips or multiple-day sojourns to tea-growing regions. Travelers will dine, sip and explore the eye-popping natural landscapes that bring visitors from across the globe.
And one more tea to try: While it may not be a rare varietal stepped in centuries-old tradition, bubble tea or “boba” is a Taiwanese creation. The fun, casual drink, ubiquitous in Southern California, was created by industrious entrepreneurs at a street market in Tainan. These days, it’s everywhere. But Taiwan features varieties uncommon stateside — white tapioca pearls, fruit-filled popping balls, foamy shaken teas and even “capped” teas with a salty, cheesy froth are popular.