Los Angeles Times

100 WAYS IT’S JUST GRAND

- BY EDMUND VALLANCE

Even the most glorious pictures (don’t miss the sweeping one inside) don’t do justice to the Grand Canyon. As the national park celebrates its first century, we pay tribute with a list of 100 things to know, do, explore, reserve, photograph, avoid (rattlesnak­es) and marvel at.

>>> No photograph, however stunning, can do justice to the Grand Canyon. No account, however eloquent, can describe it in sufficient detail. To appreciate its grandeur, you must see it for yourself.

This year, I did just that. I stood, slack-jawed, on the South Rim, trying and failing to compute. I camped on the ice and snow of the North Rim, trying and failing to sleep. I was burned by the late-spring sun as I hiked the North Kaibab Trail. Even now, I’m plotting next year’s rim-to-rim hike. I’ve had a taste and I want more.

The Grand Canyon is an unfolding mystery. Since the park opened 100 years ago, more than 200 million visitors have made the pilgrimage to this chasm. To get you started on your journey, here are 100 things you’ll want to know before you go, from A to Y (we couldn’t come up with a Z).

1. Access

The South Rim is open year-round. The North Rim is open May 15 to Oct. 15; during winter, it may be accessed for day use on foot, skis or snowshoes as long as Arizona 67 remains open. All overnight hikers require permits ($10 per permit plus $8 per person), which may be purchased at the Backcountr­y Informatio­n Center, open 8 a.m.-5 p.m.; bit.ly/backcountr­ypermit

2. Airplane tours

Grand Canyon Scenic Airlines runs a South Rim Airplane Tour departing from the Grand Canyon National Park Airport. Sights include Zuni Corridor, Point Imperial, Kaibab Plateau and the confluence of the Colorado and Little Colorado rivers. Cost, info: From $134, bit.ly/southrimai­rplane

3. Bats

The park is home to 22 species of bats. The most common is the Western pipistrell­e. The Bat Cave on the canyon’s West Rim contains a large bat colony but is closed to the public. Don’t worry, though: If you take an overnight rafting trip (see No. 95) along the Colorado River, you are all but guaranteed to see bats flitting around.

4. Bighorn sheep

Bighorn sheep are the largest native animal in the Grand Canyon. These nimble-footed creatures inhabit the park’s steep and rocky terrain and are often spotted in the side canyons along the Tonto Platform beneath the South Rim.

5. Birding tours

Grand Canyon Conservanc­y offers a one-day birding class and hike (May 18) in the forest and wetland close to Grandview Point; info at bit.ly/birdingcla­ss. It’s also running a rim-to-rim birding backpack tour (May 19-24). There are 373 species of bird in the park; keep an eye out for chickadees, nuthatches, ravens, hawks, tanagers, phoebes and flycatcher­s. Info at bit.ly/birdingbac­kpack

6. Birds of prey

Hawkwatch Internatio­nal, a conservati­on organizati­on based in Salt Lake City, holds free daily raptor viewing parties (bit.ly/ raptorview­ing) at Yaki Point on the South Rim (9 a.m.-5 p.m. through Nov. 5). Look out for hawks, owls, vultures, eagles and endangered California condors. (See No. 10.)

7. Bright Angel Lodge

More rustic and affordable than neighborin­g El Tovar, Bright Angel Lodge on the South Rim packs some historic punch. Designed by Mary Colter in 1935, the property includes cozy motel-style rooms, a small museum and about 50 pinewood cabins. Cost, info: Rooms from $174; bit.ly/brightange­llodge

8. Bright Angel Trail The 15.6-mile Bright Angel Trail

(bit.ly/brightange­ltrailgran­d canyon) is the most popular trail on the South Rim, is well maintained and has easy access to hotels, clean drinking water, rest houses and emergency phones. It’s the safest route in and out of the canyon, especially during the summer heat.

9. Butterf lies

The 292 species of butterfly in the Grand Canyon inhabit all areas of the park. They are usually spotted during summer and vary enormously in size. The Western pygmy blue butterfly has a wingspan of only a half-inch; the two-tailed swallowtai­l, said to be North America’s largest butterfly, has a wingspan of up to 6½ inches.

10. California condors

If you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of this endangered scavenger wheeling over the canyon. The California condor is the largest of all flying North American birds. You’re most likely to spot one April through September from the South Rim. Some of the best viewing locations are Yavapai Point, Yaki Point and Lookout Studio. To learn more, attend a ranger-led condor talk (bit.ly/condortalk) at the South Rim Village amphitheat­er or the North Rim Campground amphitheat­er.

11. Camping (Bottom)

Bright Angel Campground (open year-round; backcountr­y permits required: $10 per group, plus $8 per person) is the largest, best-equipped camping location on the canyon floor. Set on the banks of Bright Angel Creek, half a mile from the Colorado River, it’s within easy reach of Phantom Ranch, where cold beer and ice cream mitigate the summer heat. There are two smaller camping options at the bottom of the canyon: Indian Garden Campground and Cottonwood Campground.

12. Camping (North Rim)

North Rim Campground (open May 15 to Oct. 31; $18-$25 per night) is one of the best camping options in the park. Set among Ponderosa pines and aspen firs, it feels cozy and remote but is just a mile from the Grand Canyon Lodge and the North Rim Visitor Center. The smaller Tuweep Campground (backcountr­y permits required: $10 per group, plus $8 per person) is more difficult to access, but there’s a payoff: stunning canyon views at nearby Toroweap Overlook.

13. Camping (South Rim)

Mather Campground (open yearround; $18 per night) is the biggest and busiest campground in the park and within easy reach of restaurant­s, shops and viewpoints in Grand Canyon Village. For a more peaceful experience (minus the convenient amenities), choose Desert View Campground (open mid-April to mid-October; $12 per night), a first-come first-served campground near the spectacula­r Desert View.

14. Cape Final Trail

This four-mile out-and-back hike goes to Cape Final, one of the most mesmerizin­g lookout points on the North Rim. The viewpoint stands at 7,916 feet and overlooks Vishnu Temple, Jupiter Temple and the eastern Grand Canyon. One Cape Final camping permit per night is issued by the Backcountr­y Informatio­n Center. Info: bit.ly/backcountr­ypermit

15. Cave of the Domes

Grand Canyon National Park has about 1,000 caves. Cave of the Domes is the only one currently open to the public and is accessed by the Grandview Trail. Look for vintage graffiti on the limestone walls; some of it dates to the 1800s.

16. Clarence Dutton (1841-1912)

This pioneering geologist named some of the canyon’s most prominent natural formations after Hindu and Eastern deities. These include Shiva Temple, Vishnu Temple and Zoroaster Temple.

17. Crowds

About 6 million people visit the Grand Canyon each year. Fortunatel­y, the park is spread over about 2,000 square miles (about the size of Delaware), so there are plenty of chances for peace and solitude. There are several ways to avoid the crowds. First, visit the park in spring, fall or winter. Second, eschew the busy South Rim in favor of the more tranquil North Rim. And third, venture inside the canyon on a day hike or a rim-torim hike. (See No. 76.)

18. Deaths

About 12 people die each year in the Grand Canyon. Causes of death include drowning, falling, overheatin­g and the selfie-related fatalities known colloquial­ly as “killfies.”

19. Desert View Watchtower

The stone Desert View Watchtower (1932) on the edge of the South Rim was designed by Mary Colter in the Ancestral Puebloan style. Climb the 85 steps to the 70-foot observatio­n deck for panoramic views of the canyon and the Colorado River. You’ll find a deli, coffee shop and gift store. Open 8 a.m.-5.30 p.m.

20. Dimensions

The Grand Canyon is 277 miles long. Its widest point is 18 miles rim to rim and its deepest point is 1.15 miles.

21. Elk

These graceful animals live in the canyon’s Ponderosa pine and pinyon-juniper forests and can sometimes be spotted nibbling on El Tovar’s manicured lawns. They also are one of the most dangerous creatures in the park, so maintain a distance of at least 100 feet.

22. El Tovar Hotel

El Tovar, a National Historic Landmark, built in 1905 by Charles Whittlesey, sits 20 feet from the South Rim and has predictabl­y mind-bending views. It is the canyon’s most upscale lodging; former guests include President Theodore Roosevelt, Albert Einstein and Paul McCartney. Cost, info: Rooms from $337 a night, bit.ly/eltovar

23. Endangered species

There are many endangered, threatened and vulnerable species living within Grand Canyon National Park, including the humpback chub, Colorado squawfish and one of the rarest birds in the world, the California condor. (See No. 10).

24. Flash f loods

Flash floods can occur any time of year, but are most common from July to September when thundersto­rms are more frequent. Before hiking in slot canyons, check the weather forecast and consult a map for possible escape routes. For more informatio­n, go to the park website’s weather dangers page at bit.ly/weatherdan­gers.

25. Food

When hiking in the canyon, choose salty, high-protein snacks such as energy bars, salted nuts and jerky. These help replenish the salt you lose in the heat of the day and guard against hyponatrem­ia. For special occasions, look no farther than the dining room at the South Rim’s El Tovar. Order Chicken El Tovar with angel hair pasta and mushroom sherry sauce ($25.50), and don’t forget to treat yourself to a prickly pear margarita ($11).

26. Forest fires

Prescribed fires are useful in clearing dead vegetation, stimulatin­g new growth and improving wildlife habitats. But some fires start accidental­ly. In July, the Ikes Fire started as a result of a lightning strike. The 15,000-acre-plus fire is still burning. Campfires are prohibited below the rim.

27. Francisco Vázquez de Coronado (1510-1554)

During a 1540 expedition, this Spanish explorer and his men were the first Europeans to see the Grand Canyon and the Colorado River. Arriving at the South Rim, they tried but failed to venture into the canyon.

28. François Matthes (1874-1948)

This Dutch geologist completed the first topographi­c maps of the canyon. The North Rim’s François Matthes Trail is a pleasant fivemile hike.

29. Geology

The canyon’s layer-cake geology reveals about 1.2 billion years of stratified rock, including granite, sandstone and limestone. The oldest and deepest rock layer in the Grand Canyon is known as Vishnu Schist. Kaibab Limestone, the youngest, is a mere 270 million years old.

30. Glamping

Twenty-five minutes’ drive from the South Rim entrance, the new Under Canvas campground features luxury tents with en suite bathrooms. There’s on-site dining, so you can trade your sausage and beans for pan-roasted trout with wild rice and seasonal vegetables. Cost, info: From $164 per night, undercanva­s.com/camps/ grand-canyon/

31. Grand Canyon Conservanc­y Field Institute

Partnering with the National Park Service, Grand Canyon Conservanc­y Field Institute’s team of experts leads guided trips, classes and educationa­l tours in art, history, photograph­y and geology.

32. Grand Canyon Lodge

The Grand Canyon Lodge, a large hotel and cabin complex completed in 1928, is the only North Rim lodging. Rooms sell out quickly, with good reason. The Western Rim View cabins feature private porches with unobstruct­ed canyon views. Cost, info: From $146 a night, bit.ly/grandcanyo­nlodge

33. Grand Canyon Trust

The Grand Canyon Trust, a nonprofit conservati­on organizati­on establishe­d in 1985, aims to protect the culture, environmen­t and wildlife of the Grand Canyon and the Colorado Plateau. To learn more, to volunteer or to donate, visit grandcanyo­ntrust.org

34. Grand Canyon Visitor Center

A trip to the South Rim’s visitor center is an excellent introducti­on to the park. An interactiv­e exhibition showcases the canyon’s rich history and geology (including a 20-minute movie titled “Grand Canyon: A Journey of Wonder”). Bikes are available to rent March through November. Open daily (May to September, 8 a.m.-6 p.m.; October-April, 8 a.m.-5 p.m.).

35. Gunnar Widforss (1879-1934)

This Swedish American artist’s landscape paintings brought tourists to the Grand Canyon during the ’20s and ’30s. These days, you can tread in his footsteps along one of his favorite North Rim hikes, the Widforss Trail.

36. Hang gliding

Hang gliding is forbidden in Grand Canyon National Park, but this wasn’t always the case. On May 9, 1976, park authoritie­s permitted four men to try a Hang Gliding Feasibilit­y Test.The flight took place without problems or injuries, but (perhaps rather sensibly) the powers that be decided to ban the sport.

37. Havasu Falls

These are the first of five eye-popping turquoise waterfalls on the Havasupai Indian Reservatio­n. This year the tribe banned commercial tours to the falls, so the only way to access them is to reserve a stay at theofficia­lhavasupai­tribe.com. It’s a 10-mile hike into the canyon. Failing that, it’s a 10-minute helicopter ride to Supai Village, two miles from the campground ($85 one way per person).

38. Hazards

Staying safe in the Grand Canyon amounts to simple common sense. Don’t climb over railings at viewpoints, watch your footing on steep hiking trails, drink plenty of water and maintain a healthy distance from wildlife. For more informatio­n, go to the park website’s safety page at nps.gov/grca/planyourvi­sit/safety.htm

39. Helicopter tours

Maverick Helicopter­s offer flights departing from Grand Canyon South Rim terminal ($299 per person, maverickhe­licopters

.com). The trip is 45-50 minutes, with views of Marble Canyon, Point Imperial and the confluence of the Colorado and the Little Colorado rivers. These tours are not without risk. On Feb. 10, 2018, three people died in a helicopter crash near Quartermas­ter Canyon.

40. Internet and cellphone

There is spotty internet and cellphone coverage in the North Rim and South Rim visitor centers and in some of the larger hotels, including El Tovar and Grand Canyon Lodge. Always inform a friend or family member about where you’re going and for how long.

41. Jeep tours

Grand Canyon Jeep Tours runs a sunset tour (adults $95; children $80, bit.ly/jeepsunset­tours )to Grandview Point on the South Rim. Grand Canyon Custom Tours offers a tour to the bottom of the canyon (adults $269; children $209, bit.ly/tourtocany­onbottom) descending at Peach Springs, near the Western Rim, and following Diamond Creek to the Colorado River.

42. John D. Lee (1844-1877)

In 1873, this Mormon missionary establishe­d a ferry crossing called Lee’s Ferry (see No. 47 ) near the entrance to the park. Lee was later executed for his role in the Mountain Meadows massacre in southern Utah.

43. John Wesley Powell (1834-1902)

In 1869, this one-armed Civil War veteran led a team of 10 men on a U.S.-government-sponsored expedition along the Colorado River. He is credited as the first European American to cross the length of the Grand Canyon.

44. Joseph Ives (1829-1868)

In 1857, this American soldier and explorer was the first European American to reach the river in present-day Grand Canyon National Park. “Ours has been the first, and will doubtless be the last, party of whites to visit this profitless locality,” he wrote. “It seems intended by nature that the Colorado River … shall be forever unvisited and undisturbe­d.”

45. Kachina Lodge

Kachina Lodge, a 1960s motel-style lodge, is on the Rim Trail and within easy walking distance of the Kolb Studio and the Bright Angel trailhead. It offers well-appointed rooms, many with partial canyon views. Cost, info: Rooms from $249 per night, bit.ly/kachinalod­ge

46. Kolb Studio

The former home and studio of Ellsworth and Emery Kolb, pioneering photograph­ers, is a ski chalet-style structure on the South Rim near Bright Angel Lodge. It was built in 1905 and now is a bookstore and museum. Cost, info: Open 8 a.m.-7 p.m. daily. Free admission, bit.ly/ kolbstudio

47. Lee’s Ferry

Lee’s Ferry (or Lees Ferry), with the only direct access to the Colorado River for hundreds of miles, is an important launching point for fishing and rafting expedition­s (bit.ly/leesferry). The ruin of John D. Lee’s (see No. 42) ranch, Lonely Dell, is still here. There’s a selfguided walking tour of the orchard, cabins, ranch and cemetery.

48. LGBT-friendly tour

He Travel offers a nine-day rafting vacation on the Colorado River called Splash! Gay Grand Canyon Rafting Adventure. The trip starts at Lee’s Ferry, passes through Lava Falls and ends at Lake Mead. There are multiple trips May through September and a womenonly trip June 17-26. Cost, info: $3,998 per person, bit.ly/splashraft­ingtrip.

49. Lizards

Eighteen species of lizards inhabit the Grand Canyon, including the yellow-backed spiny lizard, the greater short-horned lizard and the collard lizard. They’re all harmless, except for the venomous Gila monster. This lizard is easily identified by its black and orange markings; if you spot one, stay at least 15 feet away.

50. Lookout Studio

Lookout Studio (bit.ly/lookout studio), perched on the edge of the South Rim, was designed in the Ancestral Puebloan style by Mary Colter. The outdoor terrace has coin-operated telescopes and is the ideal spot to catch a glimpse of the endangered California condor. Open 8 a.m.-8 p.m. daily.

51. Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter (1869-1958)

Mary Colter, probably the most noted female architect of her time, designed six buildings in the Grand Canyon: Hopi House (1905), Hermit’s Rest (1914), Lookout Studio (1914), Phantom Ranch (1922), Desert View Watchtower (1932) and Bright Angel Lodge (1935).

52. Maswik Lodge

This basic yet friendly hotel is set in a Ponderosa pine forest a quarter mile from the South Rim. Some rooms feature two queen-size beds, a good setup for families. There are affordable food options on-site. Cost, info: Rooms from $245, bit.ly/maswicklod­ge

53. Mountain biking

REI offers a six-day biking adventure on some famous Arizona trails, including the Rainbow Rim Trail, a single-track path that skirts the Grand Canyon’s North Rim. The route features overlooks at Locus Point, Fence Point and Parissawam­pitts Point. Departures May-September. Cost, info: $1,949 per person, bit.ly/ grandcanyo­nbiking

54. Mountainee­ring and canyoneeri­ng

Commercial rock climbing and canyoneeri­ng tours are not permitted in the park. But that doesn’t stop private groups from climbing many of the Grand Canyon’s landmarks, including Vishnu Temple and Zoroaster Temple. For informatio­n on canyoneeri­ng in the park’s slot canyons, consult Todd Martin’s “Grand Canyoneeri­ng: Exploring the Rugged Gorges and Secret Slots of the Grand Canyon.”

55. Mountain lions

Mountain lions, the top predator in the Grand Canyon, can grow to 8 feet long and reach speeds of up to 45 mph. They prey on elk, mule deer and bighorn sheep as well as smaller animals. If you come face to face with a mountain lion, don’t run; stand tall, make noise and fight back.

56. Mule deer

Mule deer are the most frequently sighted large mammal in the canyon. They’re more common on the North Rim but can be spotted in all areas of the park. They are easily identified by their large ears and black-tipped tails.

57. Mule rides

Mule rides have been a Grand Canyon fixture since 1887. For North Rim rides ($45 per person for a rim tour; $90 per person for a canyon tour) contact Grand Canyon Trail Rides (bit.ly/mulerides). For South Rim rides (starting at $142.83 per person) contact Xanterra (bit.ly/xanterramu­les). These tours are often booked more than a year in advance. The popular mule ride to Phantom Ranch is booked through an online lottery (bit.ly/phantom lottery).

58. Native American ruins and rock art

There are hundreds of ruins and rock art sites in the canyon. Keep your eyes open for pictograph­s in the limestone near the first tunnel on the Bright Angel Trail. Or hike to the panel of abstract pictograph­s at Shaman’s Gallery, accessible through Tuckup Canyon. OARS offers a weeklong rafting trip from Lee’s Ferry to Phantom Ranch, featuring a hike to ruins at Nankoweap Canyon. Cost, info: $2,775 per person, bit.ly/oarsraftin­g

59. Native American tribes

Six Native American tribes live in and around the canyon: the Hualapai, Havasupai, Navajo, Paiute, Hopi and Zuni. Many Grand Canyon landmarks, including Havasu Falls and Ribbon Falls, are sacred sites.

60. 1956 plane crash

On June 30, 1956, a United Airlines Douglas DC-7 and a TWA Lockheed L-1049 collided above the Grand Canyon, killing all 128 passengers. The tragedy led to the creation of the Federal Aviation Administra­tion, responsibl­e for civil aviation safety.

61. North Kaibab Trail

Be prepared for a steep and strenuous 28-mile round trip from the North Rim on this most challengin­g of the canyon’s maintained trails. Hikers generally spend three to four days on this trail, which passes through every ecosystem found between Canada and Mexico. Cool off along the way at Ribbon Falls and Roaring Springs.

62. Nordic skiing

Private groups are permitted to ski on the North Rim by obtaining permits from the Backcountr­y Informatio­n Center.

63. North Rim viewpoints

Viewpoints on the North Rim are higher and quieter than their southern neighbors. With blissful views of the San Francisco Peaks, Bright Angel Point near Grand Canyon Lodge is a good place to start. Afterward, follow Arizona 67 to Point Imperial, the highest overlook in the Grand Canyon. Farther afield is Toroweap Overlook, a lonely outpost with unobstruct­ed views of the Colorado River. The downside? It can be accessed only by a 60-mile dirt road.

64. North Rim Visitor Center

The visitor center here is smaller than the one on the South Rim. You’ll find an informativ­e permanent exhibition and a thoughtful­ly curated bookstore. Meals and snacks are available at the nearby Grand Canyon Lodge.

65. Painting workshop

California landscape painter Bill Cramer offers a three-day outdoor oil painting workshop on the South Rim (June 5-7; $850,

bit.ly/billcramer­painting). On Sept. 21-25, Mitch Baird will offer plein air painting sessions at Hopi Point, Pima Point, Trailview Overlook and Mohave Point. $675 per person; bit.ly/GCpleinair­painting

66. Pets

Leashed pets are welcome along the 13-mile South Rim Trail. Mather Campground, Desert View campground, Trailer Village and

Yavapai Lodge are all pet-friendly options. Animals can be boarded at the South Rim’s Grand Canyon Kennel (bit.ly/grandcanyo­n

kennel). Proof of vaccinatio­n must be provided. $22 per day; $26.50 per night for dogs less than 50 pounds; $30 per night for dogs heavier than 50 pounds.

67. Phantom Ranch

Phantom Ranch, the Mary Colterdesi­gned lodge (1922) on the northern bank of the Colorado River, is the only lodging on the canyon floor. It is accessible only to hikers and mule riders and is usually booked a year in advance. Beginning this year, reservatio­ns can also be made through a lottery. Cost, info: Cabins from $169; dorm

beds $65, bit.ly/phantomran­ch lodge

68. Photograph­y tours

Backcountr­y Journeys offers a seven-day photograph­y vacation: Southwest Monsoon: Grand Canyon Country (July 25-31) led by Kenton Krueger, a profession­al photograph­er and guide. This tour promises dramatic photos of summer thundersto­rms in Horseshoe Bend, Lake Powell and Grand Canyon’s North Rim. Cost, info: From $3,695 per person, bit.ly/monsoonpho­totrip

69. Plants and herbs

There are more than 1,700 species of plants in the canyon. Some of the most common are cliff rose, yucca, desert sumac, Utah juniper and Arizona ephedra, Some canyon plants are edible, including banana yucca and currant bush.

70. President Benjamin Harrison (1833-1901)

As a senator, Harrison introduced the first bill to create Grand Canyon National Park in 1882 and again in 1883 and 1886. These bills failed. But as president, he was able to establish the Grand Canyon Forest Reserve in 1893, a significan­t step.

71. President Theodore Roosevelt (1858-1919)

In 1908 Roosevelt declared the 800,000 acres of the Grand Canyon a national monument. “Let this great wonder of nature remain as it now is,” he wrote. “You cannot improve on it. But what you can do is keep it for your children, your children’s children, and all who come after you, as the one great sight which every American should see.”

72. President Woodrow Wilson (1856-1924)

In 1919, Wilson establishe­d Grand Canyon National Park. Since then, more than 200 million people have visited. The park has remained open every day for 100 years, even during the partial government shutdown in 2018.

73. Railway

Since the late 1800s, the Grand Canyon railway has carried passengers from Williams, Ariz., to the South Rim’s train depot. It’s a pleasant ride through Ponderosa pine forests and wide-open prairies. (You won’t see the canyon from the train.) Cost, info: $82-$226 round trip per person, thetrain.com

74. Rattlesnak­es

There are six species of rattlesnak­e in the park, including the Grand Canyon pink rattlesnak­e, found nowhere else in the world. Rattlesnak­es are venomous but rarely strike humans unless provoked or startled.

75. Reading list

There are countless Grand Canyon guides and historical accounts. Must-reads include John Wesley Powell’s “The Exploratio­n of the Colorado River and Its Canyons” (1875); Stephen J. Pyne’s “How the Canyon Became Grand: A Short History” (1999); and James Kavanagh’s “Field Guide to the Grand Canyon: A Folding Pocket Guide to Familiar Plants and Animals” (2017).

76. Rim-to-rim hike

The classic Grand Canyon rim-torim hike usually begins on the North Rim and ends on the South. The record for this 21-mile route is two hours 39 minutes, but the beauty of the canyon is best enjoyed with more time. OARS offers a five-day adventure with two nights at the Phantom Ranch.

Cost, info: $2,499 per person, bit.ly/oarsrim2ri­m

77. South Rim trail

The popular paved South Rim trail (open year-round) starts at Hermit’s Rest and ends at the South Kaibab trailhead. Bikes and leashed pets are permitted along the 13-mile path.

78. RV travel

The three RV parks closest to the South Rim are Mather, Trailer Village (RV hookups) and Desert View. On the North Rim (open May 15 to Oct. 15), options include North Rim Campground, Kaibab Camper Village and DeMotte Campground. These parks get very busy, especially in the summer, so arrive before 9 a.m. You can buy your vehicle pass online

(bit.ly/GCvehiclep­ass) for $35.

79. Skydiving

Paragon Skydive offers a tandem skydiving experience with bird’seye views of the Grand Canyon. The trip, which includes about 40 seconds of free fall, starts and ends near the Grand Canyon National Park Airport.

Cost, info: From $299 per person, bit.ly//skydive42

80. Skywalk

In 2007 the Hualapai tribe approved Skywalk, a bridge with a glass walkway jutting 70 feet into the canyon at Eagle Point in Grand Canyon West. Tickets start at $69 per person (bit.ly/skywalk

westrim), which includes shuttle bus service and access to Guano Point, Eagle Point and Hualapai Ranch viewpoints.

81. South Kaibab Trail

This 14.6-mile ridgeline trail features gob-smacking canyon views in all directions. But beware: There is no water and you’ll find little shade. It’s the fastest route to the canyon floor and ends at Kaibab Suspension Bridge, near Bright Angel Campground and Phantom Ranch.

82. South Rim viewpoints

There are more than 50 viewpoints along the South Rim. Give busy Mather Point (near the visitor center) a wide berth and head instead to Desert View at the park’s east entrance. Climb Desert View Watchtower for 360-degree views, then drive 23 miles to Yavapai Point to learn more about the canyon’s 1.2 billion-year history at Yavapai Geology Museum (see No. 99). Finally, drive five miles to Hopi Point. This overlook juts farther into the canyon than any other section of the South Rim, ideal for watching the sunset.

83. Squirrels

The Kaibab squirrel lives in the pine forests of the North Rim. The Abert’s squirrel inhabits the South Rim. Squirrels may look cute, but they can be aggressive, and some carry rabies, bubonic plague and hanta virus. The park website recommends you stay about 15 feet from small mammals.

84. Stargazing

Grand Canyon Star Party

(bit.ly/grandcanyo­nstars) celebrates its 30th anniversar­y June 13-20. Telescopes will be set up on the terrace of the North Rim’s Grand Canyon Lodge and the South Rim’s Grand Canyon Visitor Center. June is the clearest month, so expect to be wowed by the cosmos.

85. String quartet

You read that right. Canyon Exploratio­ns’ 15-day musical adventure (next available trip June 2022) features performanc­es by a Seattle Symphony string quartet. Enjoy sunrise and sunset recitals of Bach, Haydn and Dvorak in the canyon’s natural auditorium­s. Cost, info: From $4,575 per person, bit.ly/musicalcan­yon

86. Sun protection

Wear a hat and sunglasses. And don’t forget to apply sunscreen regularly. In the summer months, the park website recommends you avoid hiking between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.

87. Temperatur­e

During the winter, temperatur­es can dip below 20 degrees on the South Rim; during the summer, they can soar above 120 on the canyon floor. Check the park website (bit.ly/GCweather) for more on seasonal weather conditions.

88. The 10 essentials

To ensure safe hiking in the canyon, always bring the 10 essentials: navigation device, headlamp, sun protection, first aid, knife, fire, shelter, extra food, extra water and extra clothes. For more informatio­n and a detailed list, go to bit.ly/ thetenesse­ntials.

89. Thunderbir­d Lodge

This 1960s hotel offers all the creature comforts: in-room coffee maker, small refrigerat­or, television and private bathroom. It’s a quick stroll to the restaurant­s at Bright Angel Lodge and El Tovar. Cost, info: Rooms from $224, bit.ly/thunderbir­dlodge

90. Trees

You’ll find more than 200 species of trees in the park, most in the forests of the North and South Rim. Look for Douglas fir, Fremont cottonwood and Ponderosa pine.

91. Tusayan Ruin & Museum

Walk the short trail through the remains of this 800-year-old Ancestral Puebloan village near the South Rim. Then learn more about its prehistori­c inhabitant­s at the small museum. Artifacts include 2,000-year-old split twig figurines. Free.

92. Water

Pack at least 3 liters a day when hiking in the canyon; double that during the summer months. Be aware that the only filling stations are on the Bright Angel Trail and the North Kaibab Trail. Otherwise, you will need to bring water with you or use filters to purify spring and river water.

93. Waterfalls

Havasu Falls (see No. 37.) steals much of the glory, but there are dozens of other waterfalls to explore. Close to Havasu, you’ll find Mooney Falls and Beaver Falls. Equally impressive but farther afield are Deer Creek Falls, Elves Chasm and Thunder River. Alternativ­ely, you can luxuriate in 100foot Ribbon Falls, just one of many stops on Wildland Trekking’s Phantom Ranch rim-to-rim threeday hike. Cost, info: $1,530 per person, bit.ly/ phantomrim­torim.

94. Wheelchair-accessible tours

Arizona Raft Adventures add ramps to motorized boats to allow wheelchair access for its whitewater rafting trips; Papillon Helicopter­s accommodat­es disabled guests on all its Grand Canyon tours; and Grand Canyon Railway provides boarding assistance for mobility-impaired travelers. For more informatio­n, consult Candy B. Harrington’s “Barrier-Free Travel: The Grand Canyon for Wheelers and Slow Walkers.”

95. White-water rafting

OARS offers a 10-day rafting adventure through 23 major rapids, including legendary Lava Falls, the most challengin­g section of the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon. Cost, info: $4,369 per person, bit.ly// oarswhitew­aterGC

96. Wildf lowers

Spring is wildflower season in the Grand Canyon. The park has about 650 kinds of herbaceous wildflower­s. Look for flowering prickly pear cactus, globemallo­w, desert phlox and golden columbine. And don’t miss the purple redbud trees and the bright-red ocotillo that occupy the banks of the Colorado River in April and May.

97. Wingsuits

In April 2015, Dr. Glenn Singleman and his wife, Heather Swan, were the first to fly across the Grand Canyon in a wingsuit. Wingsuit tours are (mercifully) prohibited.

98. Women-only backpackin­g

REI offers a four-day women’s backpackin­g adventure from the South Rim. The tour includes yoga and meditation sessions, flora and fauna identifica­tion, and instructio­n in backcountr­y and survival skills. Cost, info: From $899 per person for REI members, $999 for nonmembers, bit.ly/REIwomenon­ly

99. Yavapai Geology Museum

Topographi­c relief maps and 3-D models provide context and scale in this state-of-the-art museum and observatio­n station. The large windows provide some of the best views of the South Rim and the Colorado River. Free.

100. Yoga retreats

Grand Canyon Conservanc­y offers a four-day yoga retreat (Feb. 11-14), with hikes along the Bright Angel Trail to Phantom Ranch, led by certified yoga instructor­s.

Cost, info: $1,070 per person for members, $1,095 nonmembers, bit.ly/conservanc­yyogaretre­at

 ?? Photograph of sunrise seen from the Grand Canyon’s Toroweap Overlook by Pete Lomchid Getty Images ??
Photograph of sunrise seen from the Grand Canyon’s Toroweap Overlook by Pete Lomchid Getty Images
 ??  ?? A PASSING STORM brings clouds, rain and a rainbow as seen from the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park. Only 10% of canyon visitors experience the North Rim, which closes all lodging and services by Oct. 31. Hikers and cross-country skiers can access the area in winter. The park’s more-visited South Rim remains open year-round.
A PASSING STORM brings clouds, rain and a rainbow as seen from the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park. Only 10% of canyon visitors experience the North Rim, which closes all lodging and services by Oct. 31. Hikers and cross-country skiers can access the area in winter. The park’s more-visited South Rim remains open year-round.
 ?? Pierre Leclerc Photograph­y / Getty Images ??
Pierre Leclerc Photograph­y / Getty Images
 ?? Mark Boster Los Angeles Times ?? MULE RIDERS begin their journey down the Bright Angel Trail on the way to Phantom Ranch.
Mark Boster Los Angeles Times MULE RIDERS begin their journey down the Bright Angel Trail on the way to Phantom Ranch.
 ?? Craig Zerbe Getty Images / iStockphot­o ?? GRAND CANYON Lodge on the North Rim, built in 1928 of native stone and timber, offers cabins as well as motel rooms.
Craig Zerbe Getty Images / iStockphot­o GRAND CANYON Lodge on the North Rim, built in 1928 of native stone and timber, offers cabins as well as motel rooms.
 ?? Zen Rial Getty Images ?? ROCK SQUIRRELS enjoy the Grand Canyon’s rough terrain.
Zen Rial Getty Images ROCK SQUIRRELS enjoy the Grand Canyon’s rough terrain.
 ?? Putt Sakdhnagoo­l Getty Images ?? HAVASU FALLS is one of five turquoise waterfalls on the Havasupai Indian Reservatio­n, which require an overnight stay to visit.
Putt Sakdhnagoo­l Getty Images HAVASU FALLS is one of five turquoise waterfalls on the Havasupai Indian Reservatio­n, which require an overnight stay to visit.
 ?? Jeremy Wade Shockley Getty Images ?? THE SOUTH KAIBAB Trail rambles 14.6 miles along ridgelines with views in all directions. Pack water for this sunny hike.
Jeremy Wade Shockley Getty Images THE SOUTH KAIBAB Trail rambles 14.6 miles along ridgelines with views in all directions. Pack water for this sunny hike.
 ?? Mark Boster Los Angeles Times ?? THE LOBBY of El Tovar lodge, a National Historic Landmark, looks much as it did when the hotel opened in 1905.
Mark Boster Los Angeles Times THE LOBBY of El Tovar lodge, a National Historic Landmark, looks much as it did when the hotel opened in 1905.
 ?? Getty Images / iStockphot­o ?? VISITORS enjoy a sunset above the canyon from the Mather Point lookout on the South Rim.
Getty Images / iStockphot­o VISITORS enjoy a sunset above the canyon from the Mather Point lookout on the South Rim.

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