Los Angeles Times

Technology converts past into modern look

- Ke Jiayu

When Shanghai was hailed as the “Paris of the Orient” in the 1920 sand1930s, society ladies wore bob hair cuts and sported fancy dresses, mink coat sand jade jewelry.

HuWengu ,29, an artist, designer and musician now living in New York, has recaptured that era of Chinese haute couture by restoring an old monochrome film of a 1929 Shanghai fashion show, using modern artificial intelligen­ce technology to color it.

His nine-minute video of the event went viral on social media. It has been viewed more than 6 million times. Many viewers said they found the fashions very in tune with contempora­ry t rends.

The original film clip came from the archives of the University of South Carolina’ s Moving Image Research Collection­s. It was shot on March 4, 1929.

The Shanghai fashion show displays how well- to- do women of the era followed foreign trends, wearing clothes that combined the latest in Paris fashion, such as knee-length dresses with Chinese traditiona­l elements like high collars.

The show wash eldin an old Chinese garden, accompanie­d by a folk tune played on what sounds like a Chinese flute. In the video, the presenter, referred to only as M is sSze, had a bobbed haircut with marc el waves and wore a blouse with a traditiona­l collar and a handpainte­d skirt. She narrated the show in English.

“It is rather difficult for a Chinese girl to speak in a foreign language to describe fashion ,” she tells viewers .“But I should try to give you some idea of what we wear in China. Modern Chinese girls combine the fashion of the East and the West .”

The models all appear in different clothing: a chiffon velvet evening dress with uneven hemline, a dress in the French empire style and an evening gown with a coat trim med with sable.

According to M is sSze,h airstyles of the era diverged from traditiona­l Chinese long hair to the then trendy bob haircut. She introduces two women who discuss their preference­s.

Hu created scenes of muted colors in the video, using artificial intelligen­ce technology.

Traditiona­lly, colorizati­on of old photos or films was mainly done by experts with specialize­d skills and tools. But now, with the advent of artificial intelligen­ce, anyone with a computer can do it.

Hu told Shanghai Daily t hat it took him about two weeks to make the video, from collecting all the materials to posting the result on the video-sharing platform Bili bi li.

The game developer started posting colorized videos of old film online after he learned to use the AI technology late last year. He also uses the Bili bili platform to show before-andafter comparison sand explain how the technology works.

“In May, I showed how artificial intelligen­ce could be used to restore old films. I did a video clip of old Beijing street scenes, and it became very popular online ,” he said.

The 10- minute video showed city street life int he1920s, from rickshaws and hawkers selling goods to gardens, am an teaching his dog tricks and people eating outdoor at a restaurant.

Xiao Bo, director of the digital restoratio­n section of the China Film Training Center, said such artificial intelligen­ce technology can reduce the time of restoring old film by a fourth and halve the cost.

Hu concluded it could also be applied to other fields, such as art and music compositio­n.

He has been collecting old film depicting life in large Chinese cities from image libraries in different countries. If he finds one that attracts hi m, he seeks permission to restore it.

“My first choice was Beijing because t hat’s my hometown,” he said .“Later I found films taken in cities like Shanghai and Guangzhou, which had attracted foreign photograph­ers and cameramen.”

The first video he made about

Shanghai showcases the Broadway Mansions.

“When I visited Shanghai in 2017, I passed by the building ,” he said ,“So when I was looking at old films, I recognized it and decided to do a video about its constructi­on. The workers of that era interested me because they were building with al most no protective measures. They had the spirit of lao kele, or “old clerk,” which refers to people well- groomed under any circumstan­ces. Their hats were never askew, and they always looked very neat.”

Women’s lives

He added ,“Some ne ti zens noted that there were few women in these old films. So I wanted to make a video showing the life of women. That’s t he genesis of this fashion show video .”

When here stored the film of old Beijing,Hu used a colorizati­on system called DeOldify that let artificial intelligen­ce decide the colors. For the fashion show video, he applied a new system called Deep Rem aster,whic hallows the creator to adjust the color.

He has received a lot of online feedback on his videos.

Many people commented t hat the fashion show looked like a “retrov log .” One viewer familiar with history pointed out that the present erin the film was the wife of a cousin of the famous Soong sisters, and the two women portrayed in the segment on hair styles were the daughter of Tan gS haoyi, first premier of the Republic of China, and t he wife of famous Shanghai architect Fan Wenzhao.

“I found a film about China ta ken by French banker Albert Kahn,” said Hu. “It didn’t identify t he place where it was ta ken, but netizens said it appeared to be the city of Jinan in Shandong Prov i nce, based on a memorial gate. I was fitting together the pieces of the history with the help of netizens.”

H us aid colorized videos of old films can stimulate public interest in history and culture.

“I had never been much of a history buff myself ,” he said, “and when I watched black-andwhite films from the past, I usually viewed them as historical records that didn’t leave me with any deep impression. But after a film was restored and colored, I noticed interestin­g details, like someone hiding behind a tree to secret ly watch the filming. It brought those on film into a real perspectiv­e .”

Besides coloring old film, Huh as also used artificial intelligen­ce to create a 3 D look at historical people—from paintings and sculptures, like the terracotta warriors and horses.

“I think artificial intelligen­ce will be a tool to enable people to realize their ideas and imaginatio­n ,” he said .“It can allow you to compose like Mozart and Beethoven or hold discussion­s with ancient philosophe­rs.”

Hut old Shanghai Daily he plans to work in the future to combine colorized old film with virtual reality technology to show people actually“walking” in what would otherwise be still scenes.

However, although artificial intelligen­ce can dom anythings in old film restoratio­n, there are still some limitation­s. For example, color selection work done by profession­als will be much closer to the reality of the past.

The China Film Training Center’s Xi a os aid he once restored China’ s first color film“The Butterfly Lovers .”

The center’s tea m mixed colors for seven to eight versions, relying on experts from different fields to decide which version is most accurate.

The China Film Archive has two groups of profession­als— one for the arts and t he other for technologi­es—to restore old films. Artificial intelligen­ce hasn’ t replaced the human mind yet.

After a film was restored and colored, I noticed interestin­g details ... It brought those on film into a real perspectiv­e.

Hu Wengu, artist

 ??  ?? Hu Wengu, an artist, designer and musician now living in New York, has recaptured Chinese haute couture of the 1920s and 30s in restoring a 1929 Shanghai fashion show ( below), using modern artificial intelligen­ce technology. — Ti Gong
Hu Wengu, an artist, designer and musician now living in New York, has recaptured Chinese haute couture of the 1920s and 30s in restoring a 1929 Shanghai fashion show ( below), using modern artificial intelligen­ce technology. — Ti Gong
 ??  ?? Scan to watch the restored old film by Hu
Scan to watch the restored old film by Hu
 ??  ?? BEFORE
BEFORE
 ??  ?? AFTER
AFTER

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