Los Angeles Times

How we can get safer, more sustainabl­e seafood

Growing it in federal waters could help meet demand for responsibl­y sourced protein and drive job creation

- By Eric Schwaab and Mary Sue Milliken Eric Schwaab is senior vice president of people and nature at the Environmen­tal Defense Fund. Mary Sue Milliken is an award-winning chef and small business owner. They are both founding members of the Coalition for Su

There’s a culinary revolution happening in the United States. More than ever before, Americans expect their meals to be not only delicious but sustainabl­e and local too. They’re increasing­ly turning to seafood options as a nutritious and more environmen­tally friendly source of protein. While restaurant­s and markets that can meet this demand are reaping the benefits, more supply is needed.

Currently, up to 85% of American seafood is imported, and it is estimated that half of that is farmed — often in ways that may not live up to our health or environmen­tal standards. Meanwhile, a 2021 poll showed that 70% of American seafood consumers are concerned about where their seafood comes from, and nearly 90% of U.S. voters prioritize increasing regulation­s and setting high standards to ensure that seafood is truly sustainabl­e. Notably, this includes 92% of Democrats and 86% of Republican­s. Leaders looking for bipartisan priorities need look no further than their next meal.

Part of the solution is to make more sustainabl­e, homegrown aquacultur­e — the farming of seafood in U.S. waters — a reality. While some states permit seafood farming near shore, the U.S. needs comprehens­ive standards for farms more than three nautical miles offshore, in federal waters, to allow a sustainabl­e industry to develop.

Safely growing seafood in federal waters could help stabilize supply for chefs and consumers, drive job creation in coastal economies and the seafood supply chain and meet America’s growing demand for sustainabl­y sourced, nutritious protein. We need to be growing a domestic seafood economy that includes both sustainabl­e aquacultur­e and wild capture fisheries.

A new bill would take the first, responsibl­e steps toward building a strong, sustainabl­e aquacultur­e industry in the U.S.: the Sciencebas­ed Equitable Aquacultur­e Food Act (SEAfood Act.) It was introduced last week in Congress by Rep. Alan Lowenthal (D-Long Beach.)

There are potential risks and unknown, unintended side effects of aquacultur­e that must be addressed. Equipment failures can lead to more pollution that endangers wildlife, and fish escapes could interfere with wild fisheries, upsetting delicate ecosystems that support existing livelihood­s.

Additional­ly, we must ensure that the food required for fish farms does not deplete other species critical to ocean health.

That’s why the SEAfood Act is so important. It would drive the studies necessary to ensure regulatory standards for aquacultur­e in offshore federal waters that limit the effects on marine ecosystems and protect coastal communitie­s. It’s a thoughtful, necessary way to close knowledge gaps, set strong standards that inform future regulation­s and ensure that aquacultur­e in the U.S. grows within guidelines that are truly sustainabl­e. Only such a sciencebac­ked approach can protect our oceans while also meeting consumer demand.

Congress has passed needed legislatio­n like this before. When our wild fisheries were collapsing, the bipartisan Magnuson-Stevens Fishery Conservati­on and Management Act set a new standard for science-based policies and sustainabl­e practices that helped save American fishing. With a new industry in offshore aquacultur­e, we can build on the successes of the U.S.’ $1.5-billion aquacultur­e farms that are already growing more than 90 million pounds of seafood, such as oysters, clams and salmon, every year. But offshore, aquacultur­e of fish comes with unique risks and challenges that we must understand before we move forward. The SEAfood Act would help us do that.

When sustainabl­e offshore aquacultur­e thrives in U.S. waters, we will be less vulnerable to the kinds of supply chain shocks caused by the COVID-19 pandemic and the Russian invasion of Ukraine. It also could boost the economy of coastal communitie­s and improve equity by creating grants for education and career developmen­t programs at institutio­ns serving Native Americans, Alaskan Natives, Native Hawaiians and other traditiona­lly underserve­d constituen­cies.

Make no mistake: More aquacultur­e is coming. The global population is growing, and with it comes the need for more protein. So U.S. lawmakers should pass the SEAfood Act and invest in research now to help ensure that aquacultur­e in U.S. federal waters is done right from the start.

 ?? Silvia Razgova For The Times ?? A NEW BILL could increase the supply of fresh fish for restaurant­s and consumers.
Silvia Razgova For The Times A NEW BILL could increase the supply of fresh fish for restaurant­s and consumers.

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