Have “Carouge” To Face The Day
My final pick is a rare treat: a two-Michelin-starred country house restaurant located just outside of the city. Domaine de
Chateauvieux (Chemin de Châteauvieux 16, Peney-Dessus, 1242 Satigny, Genève) is set in a lovely stone 16th-century house nestled on a hill in the heart of Geneva’s countryside. Unless you have a rental car, a taxi is necessary (and you will be convinced that you must be lost), but stay the course – the pricey ride is worth it. I arrived just as the sun was beginning to set over the lush gardens and vineyards, and I knew immediately that this place was special. On a Thursday night, it was packed with guests eager to savor the talents of Philippe Chevrier, the owner and chef, whose edible creations include things like succulent pigeon served with green cabbage and bacon, flavored with saffron, pear and star anise; and then there was the delicate scallop tartare joined by a citrus sea water jelly, caviar and seaweed bread with fleur de sel.
A mid-week five-course menu is CHF 96, and a multicourse dinner ranges from CHF 190 to CHF 380. Domaine de Chateauvieux also has 13 rooms if you choose to stay overnight starting at CHF 217.
Geneva has its very own version of New York City’s Greenwich Village: Carouge. Originally built by the Sardinians as a separate rival city, it is now a district of Geneva, and home to artists and artisans who give the area a sort of Mediterranean boho feel.
Full of hip local bistros, bars and boutiques — including Atelier Matin Bleu (Rue Ancienne 5, 1227 Carouge) owned by Emmanuelle Bronzino, who makes her own fabrics for her clothing lines. You can easily spend a morning checking out the galleries and shops while admiring the 18th century Italianate style of architecture lining the district’s checkerboard alleyways and streets. A few “must-see” spots include chocolatier Philippe Pascoët (Passage des Lions, 1204 Genève) for a delicate treat such as their amazing ganaches, Boutique L'Effrontée (Rue Saint-Victor 24, 1227 Carouge) for au courant ready-to-wear women’s fashion; chic and trendy handmade handbags at Chris Murner (Rue Ancienne 43, 1227 Carouge GE), the best café to caffeinate and enjoy your favorite coffee drink, Valmandin (Rue Ancienne 46, 1227 Carouge); and L’échappée belle (Rue Saint-Victor 1, 1227 Carouge) for all-around nifty items. And as an added bonus, if you go on a Wednesday or Saturday morning (as well as Thursday evenings now), there is a farmer’s market offering local produce and goods. The area is perfect for unhurried, rambling roaming, but if you want a path to follow, then make your way to Place du Marché. At the Town Hall (Place du Marché 14, 1227 Geneva), you can pick up a bilingual guide of the area with a suggested walk. Before leaving this little world, have a bite to eat at the stylish Asian favorite, Paku Paku (Rue Vautier 43, 1227 Carouge) to fuel up for the rest of the day.
Photography: Domaine de Cheteauvieux
Photography: Courtesy Geneva Tourism