RECIPES Banana tiramisu

Makes 12 to 16 servings

3 to 4 large ripe bananas, divided

3 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided

1 cup mascarpone

1 cup heavy cream

1 cup freshly brewed strong coffee or espresso, cooled slightly

2 glugs dark rum, optional (but also not?)

20-ish crisp ladyfingers (recipe below), baked and cooled

4 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder, preferably Dutch-processed, divided In a large bowl, mash the two ripest bananas with 2 tablespoons sugar, using a potato masher or fork, until very few lumps remain. Mash in the mascarpone. In another large bowl, whip the cream and remaining 1 tablespoon of sugar until stiff peaks form. You can do it by hand; think how nice your forearms will be. Gently fold the whipped cream into the banana mixture.

In a shallow bowl, stir together the coffee and rum, if using.

Quickly dip some of the ladyfingers in the spiked coffee and use them to line the bottom of an 8-inch square baking dish, breaking them as needed to form an even layer. It should take about 10. Evenly spread half the banana cream over the ladyfingers. Thinly slice the remaining banana and arrange the slices neatly over the cream, then generously dust everything with 2 teaspoons cocoa powder. Repeat the process with the remaining ladyfingers and banana cream.

Chill the tiramisu, covered, for at least 3 hours (or up to 2 days) before serving to allow time for the flavors to harmonize. Dust with the remaining 2 teaspoons of cocoa powder just before serving generous scoops. This will keep in the refrigerator, covered, for up to two days.

Ladyfingers

Makes about 30

3-inch cookies

3 large eggs, separated ¾ cup all-purpose flour ½ cup granulated sugar, divided

1½ teaspoons pure vanilla extract

½ teaspoon coarse salt Heat the oven to 350 degrees, with racks in the lower third and middle positions. Line two 13-inch by 18-inch rimmed baking sheets with silicone baking mats or parchment paper. Using an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites on medium speed until foamy. Gradually increase the speed of the mixer while slowly adding 1⁄4 cup sugar. Then continue whipping on high speed until firm peaks form, about 2 minutes longer.

Scrape the meringue into a bowl and set aside.

Add the yolks, vanilla, salt and remaining ¼ cup sugar to the same mixer bowl and whip on high speed until the mixture is pale and thick, about 2 minutes.

Stir about one third of the whipped egg whites into the yolk mixture to lighten, then gently fold in the remaining egg whites in two additions. Sift about a third of the flour over the batter through a fine-mesh sieve and gently fold until mostly combined. Sift and fold in the remaining flour in two additions. If you’re feeling fussy, transfer the batter to a piping bag fitted with a 1⁄2-inch plain round tip and pipe 3-inch-long cookies about 1 inch apart on the prepared baking sheets. If you’re feeling unscrupulous, use a couple of spoons or a spring-loaded scoop to drop 2-tablespoon (30-milliliter) mounds of batter; they won’t be fingers, but it will be OK. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, until the cookies spring back when gently pressed, rotating and transposing the baking sheets halfway. Reduce the oven temperature to 175 degrees and continue baking for 20 minutes, opening the oven periodically to blow off some steam, or until the cookies are quite firm to the touch. Remove the baking sheets from the oven and allow the ladyfingers to cool completely on them; the cookies will crisp up as they cool. Store the ladyfingers at room temperature in an airtight container for a week or more.

Pomegranate molasses and cherry cake

1 cup dried sweet cherries, such as Bing

3⁄4 cup pomegranate molasses 1⁄2 cup pomegranate juice 1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger

Safflower or similar oil for the pan, plus 3⁄4 cup for the cake, divided use

2 cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon ground ginger 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground all-spice 1⁄2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1⁄2 teaspoon baking soda 1⁄2 teaspoon coarse salt 2 large eggs

3⁄4 firmly packed light brown sugar

For the cocktail:

2 tablespoons or 1 ounce pomegranate juice 2 tablespoons or 1 ounce white rum

2 tablespoons or 1 ounce orange liqueur, such as triple sec

Roughly chop the dried cherries.

In a small saucepan, combine the cherries, pomegranate molasses, juice and fresh ginger. Heat until bubbles form around the edge of the pan, stirring to dissolve the molasses. Set aside to cool.

Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Brush an 8-inch square glass or ceramic baking dish with safflower oil.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, dried ginger, cinnamon, allspice, pepper, baking soda and salt.

In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, eggs and light brown sugar until a creamy mixture forms. Whisk in the cooled pomegranate mixture, then stir in the dry ingredients with a rubber spatula. Pour the batter into the prepared baking dish and bake for 1 hour, or until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Meanwhile, make the cocktail by stirring together the pomegranate juice, white rum and orange liqueur. As soon as the cake comes out of the oven, use a wooden skewer to punch holes all the way through to the bottom, spaced about 1 inch apart. Slowly pour the cocktail over the cooling cake.

Allow the cake to cool in the baking dish. Serve with vanilla ice cream, if desired. The cake will keep at room temperature, covered, for up to three days.

— From Jason Schreiber’s “Fruit Cake” (William Morrow, $32.50)