Happy endings for Passover meals
Cakes and cookies during Passover, which begins Friday evening, are different.
For baked goods to be kosher for Passover, flour made from wheat cannot be used except as matzo meal or matzo cake meal, which are forms of ground matzo. The other main “flour” used for Passover is potato starch. For the Seder, my mother made desserts that were also dairy-free so they could be served after a kosher meal containing meat or chicken.
Despite these restrictions, cooks have developed a variety of tasty Passover desserts. In many households, Passover desserts are much anticipated as once-ayear treats.
Cakes and cookies made from ground nuts are perfect for the holiday. A favorite of ours is flourless hazelnut cake moistened with orange syrup. Another is homemade almond macaroons that I learned to make at cooking school in Paris.
Pieces of matzo are also used to make Passover sweets, and chocolate-coated matzo is one of the most popular. Often the matzos are covered with a mixture containing large amounts of sugar and butter before being spread with chocolate. We prefer a more intense chocolate flavor, so I bake the matzos with only a small amount of sweet coating using coconut oil — just enough so the chocolate chips stick.
The following treats are guaranteed to sweeten your holiday.
RECIPES Chocolate-coated matzos
When preparing these easyto-make treats, sprinkle the
amount of nuts you like over the melted chocolate. Halve walnuts or pecans lengthwise; large pieces tend to fall off. Other options are pistachios, slivered almonds or flaked coconut.
Yield: 12-15 portions
INGREDIENTS
3 1⁄2 to 4 matzos
1⁄4 cup sugar
1⁄4 cup coconut oil 1tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon water
Pinch of salt
2 cups chocolate chips — dark, bittersweet or semisweet
Nuts and seeds such as halved walnuts; halved, toasted or seasoned pecans; pine nuts; and pepitas (for garnish)
Preheat oven to 350degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil. Cover with a layer of matzos. Break matzos as necessary so they fit tightly. Combine sugar, coconut oil, olive oil, water and salt in a very small, heavy saucepan. Heat over low heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar dissolves and coconut oil melts. Bring to a simmer. Cook over low heat, without stirring, for 7minutes or
until syrup thickens slightly and smells nutty.
Pour syrup evenly over matzos.
Bake matzos for 15minutes to toast them lightly. Remove matzos from oven, leaving them on hot baking sheet. Immediately cover evenly with chocolate chips. Let stand about 2 minutes or until they begin to melt; then spread them evenly over matzos using a spatula until they have completely melted.
Sprinkle nuts over chocolate right away, while chocolate is still soft. Let stand until set, about 2 or 3 hours. Break into portions to serve.
Almond macaroons
Peeling and grinding your own almonds give these cookies a delicious flavor.
About 20 cookies
Yield:
INGREDIENTS
1 2⁄3 cups whole almonds 3⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, divided
Whites of 2large eggs 1teaspoon vanilla extract 6 whole almonds (optional, for garnish)
Peel almonds: In a small saucepan boil enough water to generously cover
almonds. Add 1 2⁄3 cups almonds. Return to a boil; boil about 10 seconds. Remove an almond with a slotted spoon. Press on one end of almond with your thumb and index finger; almond will come out of its skin. If it doesn't, boil them a few seconds more and try again. When almonds can be peeled easily, drain and peel them.
Spread peeled almonds in one layer on a dish lined with a kitchen towel or paper towels. Let stand about 30minutes. Pat almonds dry. (Almonds should be thoroughly dried before being ground.)
Position rack in upper third of oven; preheat oven to
350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or waxed paper; oil paper. Set aside 20 peeled almonds; reserve for garnish. In a food processor grind remaining peeled almonds with 1⁄4 cup sugar to fine, even crumbs; scrape mixture toward center once or twice. Add egg whites and vanilla and process until mixture is smooth.
Add remaining sugar in two batches, processing about 10 seconds after each addition
or until smooth; scrape sides down once or twice. Transfer mixture to a bowl. With moistened hands, roll 1tablespoon of the dough between your palms into a smooth ball; put it on prepared baking sheet. Continue with remaining dough, spacing cookies about 1 inch apart.
With moistened fingers, press to flatten each cookie slightly so it is about a 1⁄2 inch high. Brush entire surface of each cookie lightly with water. Set a blanched almond on center of cookie and press lightly so it adheres. If you have more than 20cookies, garnish remaining cookies with whole unblanched almonds.
Bake cookies until they brown very lightly but evenly and their centers are still soft, about 15minutes; after about 8minutes rotate baking sheet so cookies bake evenly. Meanwhile, prepare 2small cups with 2-3tablespoons water in each.
When macaroons are done, remove baking sheet from oven. To help remove cookies easily, immediately lift one end of the paper and pour 2-3 tablespoons water under it, onto the baking sheet; water will boil on contact with hot baking sheet. Lift other end of paper and quickly pour 2-3 tablespoons water under it. Tilt baking sheet slightly so water reaches entire surface of pan. When water stops boiling, gently remove macaroons from the paper, using a metal spatula if necessary. Cool cookies on a rack.
Flourless hazelnut cake
This Passover nut cake is made with a small amount of potato starch. After being baked, the cake is moistened with orange syrup and needs no frosting.
Yield: About 20servings
Hazelnut cake:
1 1⁄4 cups hazelnuts
3⁄4 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
5 large eggs
2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest
1⁄2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
5 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons potato starch
Pinch of salt
1⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
Orange syrup and garnish:
3⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
2⁄3 cup water
Zest of 1⁄2 orange, peeled in strips
2 tablespoons orange juice, strained
1 teaspoon lemon juice, strained
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons finely chopped raw