Marin Independent Journal

Closing time’s difficult demands

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They piled in. Two in clean white shirts — clearly servers — another, likely a bartender, in a wine-stained shirt and someone in a pantsuit combinatio­n that positively screamed “manager.” I didn’t know where they came from. All I knew was that they arrived mere minutes before our posted closing time.

Some remember the actor Ryan Reynolds as the wisecracki­ng Marvel superhero Deadpool, or as the spokespers­on for his own Mint Mobile, a budget wireless provider, or as People magazine’s sexiest man alive — well, in 2010 anyway. A few may remember his 2005 tonguein-cheek movie about the restaurant business called “Waiting,” with a great scene of the staff waiting around for the clock hands to tick down to closing, only to be rendered furious by the arrival of a last-minute guest.

Things are different now. First, there are few clock hands, just people checking their cellphones. Second, with kitchen staff at a premium, nobody wants to anger the cooks — they just might leave and never come back.

The same cannot be said of bartenders.

Four Espresso Martinis were ordered as I watched the cooks walk out the door. It’s odd how every generation has its painin-the-you-know-what drink. Thirty years ago, the Old Fashioned was the bane of the bartender’s existence; whiskey, bitters, muddled fruit and sugar, shaken and then topped with soda. Old Fashioneds were originally called Bittered Slings until the Sling became another drink — liquor, lemon and sweet liqueur, according to David Embury’s “The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks” — of which the most famous version became known by yet another name, the Sunrise. Eventually the Old Fashioned returned to its roots and ease of preparatio­n — whiskey, bitters and sugar.

Those most prone to psychologi­cal injury often appear meek, unable to voice even the slightest concern, only to turn into raging tigers behind the mask of distance and anonymity.

Twenty years ago, the painin-the-you-know-what drink was muddled concoction­s like the Caipirinha, featuring lime wedges, lime juice, sugar cubes and cachaca (a Brazilian sugar distillate) or the Mojito, a combinatio­n of muddled mint, sugar, soda water and rum. Both have waned in popularity, but they do get ordered, and usually at the most inopportun­e of moments. Like, right at closing time.

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