Marin Independent Journal

Sausalito's Farley a local gem with non-stop views

- By Ann Walker

Sausalito's Cavallo Point Lodge opened in 2008 with an upscale restaurant, Murray Circle, and a bar, Farley Bar, with a clubby atmosphere and amazing views of the Golden Gate Bridge, the bay and the San Francisco skyline from the deck.

Now known as just Farley, it was recently remodeled along with Murray Circle, which have been transforme­d into Sula and the adjoining Sula Lounge. While Farley's interior looks different, the views — thankfully — remain, and excellent heaters on the deck make even chilly evenings feel cozy.

So does the fireplace inside, which adds to the visual warmth of the room. Settle in to one of the high-backed bar chairs lining the long bar, at one of the dark blue elevated booths or at the plaid upholstere­d chairs nestled around cocktail tables. The padded chairs, booths and fabric blinds help keep the noise level comfortabl­e when the restaurant is full.

Farley, an American bistro, is named for a long-running cartoon that satirized the Bay Area, “Farley,” which appeared in the San Francisco Chronicle for 22 years. The late Phil Frank, “Farley's creator,” cast a keen eye on current events and was, as well, the president of Sausalito's Historic Society. Naming the bar set in one of the repurposed, old Army barracks after one of his creations seems more than appropriat­e. For those too young to remember the popular cartoon or those who want to reminisce, several panels hang on the walls on level B in the dining barracks.

As we settled in, a friendly and efficient server greeted us and brought our food and

drink menus. Featured cocktails ($18) looked inviting. Our server guided me toward the Early Girl, an Old Fashioned made with Earl Grey-infused Sazerac, six-year rye and Bitter Girl bitters. Female-owned Bitter Girl, founded by longtime Marin bartender Erin Hines, is made in Sonoma County from local ingredient­s. The cocktail was delicious.

If cocktails are not your thing, a short, interestin­g list of wines are available by the glass ($12 to $19) or bottle ($50 to $138). Local beers are available by the can and on draft ($9 to $14).

Executive chef Michael Garcia relies on locally sourced and sustainabl­e ingredient­s when possible. We shared the Fontina and Pumpkin Arancini ($18), vegetarian and gluten

free, from the starters ($9 to $35). Arancini means “little oranges” in Italian, and the five 2-inch bronzed balls were crispy on the outside with a cheese-rich, risotto filling flecked with pumpkin. A madras curry aioli topped each ball, garnished with pumpkin seeds and micro greens.

You could make a whole dinner out of the starters, which include Duck Confit Flatbread ($22), Beef Short Rib Bao ($18) and Ahi Tuna Poke ($21), and a couple at the next table did just that.

The vegetarian Lacinato Baby Kale Salad ($18) is another shareable item. This was not the massaged type of kale salad one often sees in restaurant­s nowadays. The perfect little dark green kale leaves

were tossed with slivers of Belgian endive, crunchy croutons, toasted pine nuts, baby tomatoes, cucumber slices and miso dressing with a dusting of Parmesan.

The plump Steamed Manila Clams ($24) had been steamed with chard and fennel. The menu describes the dish as being made with diced Spanish chorizo, which is cured and reminiscen­t of a paprika-infused salami in the broth, but the taste and texture were more like the ground pork-style Mexican chorizo. Either way the clams were tasty. The grilled bread was a welcome accompanim­ent for soaking up the comforting broth.

Grilled Duroc Pork

Chop ($32) features a meaty achiote pasterubbe­d and grilled bonein pork chop. The achiote gave the chop an earthy taste, which mingled with the dark brown, smoked tomato sauce that supported the Iacopi Farms butter beans. At first, I considered the little rings of pickled peppers atop the chop as a mere garnish until I tasted what they did to brighten and excite the flavors of the pork and beans. The pork was moist and dense. A highly satisfying dish.

Other main dishes include Pressed Mary's Chicken ($30), vegan and gluten-free Wild Mushroom Ravioli ($32) and Seafood Paella ($44).

House-made desserts ($16) include five temptation­s, including Sticky Toffee Pudding and Saffron Poached Pear. My dining companion, known for her dedication to chocolate, honed in on the Black Sesame and Chocolate Decadence Cake. She and I were well rewarded. The gluten-free cake consisted of a compressed block of dark chocolate and black sesame seeds that topped dark chocolate ganache and crispy, nicely salty, chocolate rice. On the side was softly whipped cream with a tiny pool of extra-virgin olive oil in the center. Dividing the cake from the cream was a sweet and salty sesame tile. The suggested Woodhouse Port ($15) would go really well with this dessert.

Many of Farley's diners are guests at the lodge, but savvy residents also embrace this local gem. Drop into Farley for a drink, a snack, a meal or, on the weekends, brunch. The bar is lively, the service is casual but profession­al, and the food is tasty. And then, of course, there are those views.

 ?? SHERRY LAVARS — MARIN INDEPENDEN­T JOURNAL ?? Farley's Steamed Manila Clams come with Spanish chorizo, chard, fennel and grilled artisanal bread.
SHERRY LAVARS — MARIN INDEPENDEN­T JOURNAL Farley's Steamed Manila Clams come with Spanish chorizo, chard, fennel and grilled artisanal bread.
 ?? PHOTOS BY SHERRY LAVARS — MARIN INDEPENDEN­T JOURNAL ?? The bar at Farley in Sausalito.
PHOTOS BY SHERRY LAVARS — MARIN INDEPENDEN­T JOURNAL The bar at Farley in Sausalito.
 ?? ?? Farley's Lacinato Baby Kale Salad features endive, croutons, pine nuts, baby tomatoes, cucumber, Parmesan and a white miso dressing.
Farley's Lacinato Baby Kale Salad features endive, croutons, pine nuts, baby tomatoes, cucumber, Parmesan and a white miso dressing.
 ?? ?? Farley's Fontina and Pumpkin Arancini comes with a flavorful aioli.
Farley's Fontina and Pumpkin Arancini comes with a flavorful aioli.
 ?? ?? Customers chat while dining outdoors at Farley in Sausalito.
Customers chat while dining outdoors at Farley in Sausalito.

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