Let's eat carrot cake — the quintessential American classic

Let's eat cake — carrot cake. Dense, moist and homey, carrot cake makes sweet use of winter's root crops, including parsnips and golden beets, if you have them.

The quintessential American classic evolved from a time when sugar was expensive, so root vegetables like carrots, parsnips and beets sweetened the batter. The dessert is so right for today as we seek ways to lighten and brighten our treats.

My favorite cake recipes are the simplest — as easy as whipping up a batch of cookies. Much as I admire the elaborate confections that require a day to make, I'd rather leave those to the pros; there are plenty in our town to support. And it's in such recipes that good ingredients are of utmost importance. Cakes have a way of showcasing “off” flavors. Make sure the carrots taste good, the nuts are not stale (or worse, rancid) and the dried fruit isn't as hard as marbles. And use high-quality eggs and butter, as they do make a difference. If the ingredients aren't right, the off flavors will pop up in each slice.

My favorite recipe is an old family favorite from “The Joy of Cooking.” It's nicely spiced, the texture relies on the shredded carrots, parsnips, golden beets (alone or in combination), hazelnuts and dried cranberries. But feel free to use whatever you like and have on hand — raisins, chopped dried apricots, shredded coconut.

Not one to fuss, I prefer to bake this in an oblong pan, but the quantity will nicely fill two round cake pans if you're looking for a more refined two-layer beauty. The cake stores nicely for a day or two and freezes beautifully.

Please don't forget the velvety, tangy cream cheese frosting — it makes the cake.

RECIPE Carrot Cake

Makes 1(9- by 13-inch) cake, or about 16servings This moist, dense, flavorful cake tastes even better the day after it's made and the flavors have had a chance to meld. Feel free to vary the nuts and dried fruit; just keep the total additions to 1