Marin Independent Journal

Push against cultivated meat uninspired

- By Richard Williams Richard Williams is a former director for social sciences at the FDA's Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition. ©2024 Tribune Content Agency, LLC.

A bill restrictin­g cultivated meat is moving forward with significan­t support in Florida. Leaders there, in other states like Alabama, and in the federal government are fighting alternativ­e proteins — milk, cheese, poultry, seafood or meat products not resulting from the old, “natural” cultivatio­n methods — and in many cases calling them “fake.” Does that mean our houses are fake?

Caves are natural but don't make the best homes, so we cut down trees, make bricks and concrete, toilets, wires and insulation. We also breed and plant seeds, fertilize and water them, harvest them with machines, package and transport and then cook them. Doesn't that make most foods unnatural, i.e., “fake?”

Did anything on this earth evolve specifical­ly to be safe or healthy for humans to eat? In fact, the reverse is true. Plants and animals evolved myriad defenses against being eaten, including bad tastes, foul smells, claws and even poisons. We've been using plant and animal breeding technologi­es for tens of thousands of years to overcome evolution and are now in a position to do so much more precisely and rapidly.

The Bible instructs us that “everything created by God is good, and nothing is to be rejected if it is received with thanksgivi­ng.” If we want diets that are both safe and healthy, calling some foods “fake” in a somewhat arbitrary way is zero help.

Cows are not natural.

They've been bred for over 10,000 years from a now-extinct wild ox called the auroch that was slightly smaller than elephants and lived in Eurasia and Africa. Most cows are raised in factory farms where they can be periodical­ly confined in crowded buildings with no windows where they can barely move. There is nothing whatsoever natural about that.

Love bacon? One practice common with some pork products is called “feedback.” Pig poop is fed to females who haven't given birth yet to help them adapt to germs on farms. (There are so many germs on farms that farm kids are healthier than non-farm kids due to the exposure.) It's not just the females that get lousy treatment. Male pigs can have their tails and testicles ripped off by hand without anesthesia — you know, naturally.

Regardless, we're seeing a backlash in our capitals. One Florida representa­tive called one type of the new proteins, cell-cultivated meat, an “affront to nature and creation.” Let there be no doubt, though, that some of the resistance originates with agricultur­al interests who don't appreciate the competitio­n.

Maybe with newer and better products coming onto the market, incumbent producers will work their way through the five stages of grief. But instead of denial, anger, bargaining, depression and acceptance, expect denial, anger, depression, regulation (of the interloper­s), and finally adding the new products to their own lines.

Currently, there are over 1,000 companies either producing cultivated (made directly from cells) meats, poultry and seafood; precision-fermentati­on meat, seafood, eggs and dairy products; or plant-based foods.

There are over 800 of the latter. These companies are worldwide and they are growing. Over half of all U.S. households are using these products and over 60% among younger generation­s — Millennial­s and Gen Z — are trying to incorporat­e such foods into their diets.

The reasons these products will ultimately be cheaper and succeed are obvious. They are produced in a safer (less exposure to pathogens) environmen­t than farms, do not harm animals, have less environmen­tal impact, can be produced closer to consumers (eliminatin­g huge transporta­tion costs), and do not suffer the same kinds of supply disruption­s we saw during the COVID-19 pandemic. Most importantl­y, we can control their nutritiona­l compositio­n. One prediction has the global alternativ­e protein market reaching $423 billion by 2033.

We need micronutri­ents including vitamins and minerals, carbohydra­tes, fats, protein, fiber and water for energy and to maintain the body's structure, and microbes that, among other things, protect us from bad bacteria called pathogens, aid in digestion, and help our immune systems. If we do not have to use slow and unpredicta­ble breeding and cultivatin­g techniques, we can make foods precisely to fit our needs.

Just like building a house that shelters us and keeps us healthy, we can, and should, build foods that are both safe and healthy. It's natural.

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