Marin Independent Journal

Get a taste of what makes mushrooms so great

- By Diane Lynch IJ correspond­ent

Ifind mushrooms to be some of the most interestin­g life to be found. They come in infinite shapes, colors and sizes. Some are edible and delicious. Others can be fatal if consumed. Some attract flies to spread themselves around. Some are even phosphores­cent. And their root systems are amazing and can be enormous.

Since many of us were in biology classes, much has changed in the way living organisms are classified. Mushrooms have their own kingdom, Funga. They don't photosynth­esize to make their own food. Interestin­gly, there are myriad ways that mushrooms can be shown to be phylogenet­ically closer to animals than plants, from cell structure to metabolic pathways.

The part we see above ground is called the fruiting body, cap or flower, and it produces reproducti­ve spores, which are microscopi­c and can only be seen in a spore print, which you can make by putting a cap (cutting the stem off) on a piece of white paper. Then, cover it overnight with a glass or plastic container so the spores stay in place.

The undergroun­d parts of the organism aren't called roots but rather hyphae (singular hypha) that congregate into a sometimes huge mycelium, a tangle of white and brown threadlike structures that constitute a root system from which the fruiting bodies emerge when conditions are right. The mycelium uses enzymes to basically feed itself and allow it to fruit. They are important recyclers as they break down nutrients in dead wood and other organic matter.

The most famous huge mycelium is in Oregon. Known as humongous fungus, it's

Mushrooms have a bit of magic about them.

a honey fungus (Armillaria ostoyae) that lives on dead or dying trees. It's about 2,400 acres large and has been studied extensivel­y by scientists for many years. Another is in an aspen grove in central Utah.

Most of the mushrooms we eat are grown in giant warehouses. The white grocery store mushroom, Agaricus bisporus, is the same as the little brown one called cremini, which is the same as a portobello. Oyster mushrooms, Pleurotus ostreatus, and other species are also easily cultivated.

Chanterell­es, Cantharell­us formosus, and the Pacific golden mushroom are super tasty. They contain vitamins A, B6, E, C and D and other trace minerals and are thought to reduce inflammati­on and lower the risk of certain cancers. Compared to grocery store mushrooms and oysters, chanterell­es are not easily commercial­ly cultivated since they rely on the soil around a host plant such as oak, Douglas fir or pine.

Like chanterell­es and morels, Morchella esculenta has typically been wild foraged, but there's a recent article in the New

York Times about a Danish growing operation that's successful­ly farming them, so maybe the price will come down. They are delicious to eat and available at farmers markets in the spring months. A recent article in Scientific American about a food poisoning outbreak in Montana from undercooke­d morels should inform how you cook them.

There are plenty of toxic mushrooms out there, and some could kill you. Amanita phalloides is a common one, and it looks pretty innocuous. People end up in emergency rooms every year after having mistaken it for an edible one. An estimated 95% of poisonings are mushrooms from the Amanita genus. The irony of the genus Amanita is that it also contains edibles as well as really beautiful species, such as Amanita muscaria, the so-called fairy tale mushroom or fly agaric.

Only eat foraged mushrooms if you are absolutely certain about what you've found. Be sure to follow cooking guidance. Wait to wash them until you're ready to cook them since they'll turn to

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