IS­LAND GET­AWAY

A GUIDE TO MARTHA’S VINE­YARD — NO PREPPY AT­TIRE RE­QUIRED.

Metro USA (Boston) - - FRONT PAGE -

Time to ditch the pas­tels, penny loafers and the no­tion that Martha’s Vine­yard is too haughty for the ple­beians—aka, most of us.

While the is­land might’ve been se­cond homes for the likes of John F. Kennedy and Barack Obama, it’s also a hotspot for some of the fresh­est seafood around, in­no­va­tive res­tau­rants and scenery rang­ing from post­card-wor­thy beaches to ver­dant, mythic glens rem­i­nis­cent of Ire­land.

If you’re think­ing Martha’s Vine­yard isn’t for you, or is out of your bud­get, we’ve got the low­down on how to save, where to splurge and what you ab­so­lutely can’t miss.

How to get around:

Take the ferry from Wood’s Hole. Bring­ing a ve­hi­cle costs $44-$79 (one way, depend­ing on size), while it’s $15/day to park in Wood’s Hole. Most peo­ple forgo cars and get around the is­land via lo­cal bus, bi­cy­cle, taxi or hired car (Uber and Lyft rates vary). For sched­ules and fares, visit steamshipau­thor­ity.com.

Cheap eats: The Larder

Good Farm’s Jef­fer­son Mun­roe opened this farm stand spe­cial­iz­ing in lo­cal, whole an­i­mal butch­ery and prod­ucts such as spe­cialty cheeses, bone broth, sauces and sand­wiches. Grab pro­vi­sions here be­fore head­ing to the beach. 342 State Rd., Vine­yard Haven, the­good.farm

Larsen’s Fish Mar­ket

A flap­ping screen door wel­comes you to this rus­tic water­front mar­ket, where fish­er­men are fre­quently seen haul­ing in their catches. Ev­ery­thing is fresh, from the oys­ters shucked in front of you to the stuffed scal­lops and lob­ster bisque. Eat out back at the few pic­nic ta­bles lin­ing the har­bor, or take some filets to grill at home. 56 Basin Rd., Chilmark, larsens­fish­mar­ket.com

Meals to re­mem­ber: Garde East

The ser­vice — and the seafood — is amaz­ing at Garde East, where you’ll dine over­look­ing Vine­yard Haven’s sher­bet sun­set. Yes, it’s a lit­tle white-table­cloth-y, and there is a foie gras dish on the menu, but if you want a feast for the senses and can splurge on dishes like sea-bass crudo or squid-ink chi­tarra, you re­ally should. The restau­rant just got a liquor li­cense, too, a fea­ture that’s a god­send on a mostly dry is­land. 52 Beach Rd., Vine­yard Haven, gardeeast.com

Isola

Chef Jimmy Al­varado brings a Peru­vian twist to this fam­ily-owned Ital­ian restau­rant in Edgar­town. The daily catch ce­viche fea­tures tiger’s milk and Peru­vian pop­corn called can­cha, but the Span­ish braised oc­to­pus with roasted gar­lic hum­mus will set your world ablaze. If you’ve had enough seafood, the hand­made pas­tas and piz­zas never dis­ap­point. 19 Church St., Edgar­town, iso­lamv.com

Get your freak on: Nancy’s

This Oak Bluffs water­front in­sti­tu­tion is known for its no-frills seafood plat­ters and the in­fa­mous Dirty Ba­nana, a blended con­coc­tion with a lit­tle ba­nana and a lot of al­co­hol. Try one right be­fore head­ing across the street to dance the night away at the Ritz. 29 Lake Ave., Oak Bluffs, nan­cys­restau­rant.com

The Ritz

This crème de la crème of dive bars fea­tures live mu­sic every night of the week—and danc­ing. Founded in 1944, the Ritz has re­port­edly hosted the likes of James Cag­ney, Burl Ives, Frank Si­na­tra, John Len­non, Paul McCart­ney, Diana Ross, Carly Si­mon, James Tay­lor and even Elvis Pres­ley. 4 Cir­cuit Ave., Oak Bluffs, ther­itzmv.com

20byNine

One of the hippest spots in Oak Bluffs, this gas­tropub is all about craft beer, char­cu­terie and cheese. It won’t break the bank, ei­ther—try a ma­son jar of smoked bluefish for $11, or a $12 oys­ter po’boy. But save room for dessert, be­cause 20byNine serves s’mores. 16 Ken­nebec Ave., Oak Bluffs, 20bynine.com

Where to shop: Is­land Cop­per

Not for the faint-wal­leted, this bou­tique is worth a browse even if you’re on a bud­get. From hand­made cop­per ta­bles and desks to yerba mate mugs, Oax­a­can blan­kets to paint­ings, Is­land Cop­per is a home dec­o­ra­tor’s dream. 15 Me­chanic St., Vine­yard Haven, mvis­land­cop­per.com

Lode­stone

Artist Ni­cole May­hew cu­rates this sea­sonal shop with items from around the globe—ev­ery­thing from rugs to leather goods to an­i­mal skulls, these are one-of-a-kind trea­sures you’ll keep for­ever. 5 Win­ter St., Edgar­town, lode­stone­brook­lyn.com

What to see: Gay Head Cliffs

For some “Game of Thrones”-es­que scenery, bike over to Aquin­nah for this na­tional land­mark of mul­ti­col­ored cliffs. Don’t for­get to pack a pic­nic. State Rd., Aquin­nah

Long Point Wildlife Refuge Beach

A slow drive down a long dirt road is worth it when it leads to bird-watch­ing, walk­ing trails, a fresh­wa­ter pond and miles of coast­line. $10 per car and $5 per per­son. Hughes Thumb Rd., West Tis­bury, thetrustees.org

Where to stay: Sum­mer­camp Ho­tel

Imag­ine if Wes An­der­son opened a ho­tel in­spired by nos­tal­gia for the sum­mer sleep­away camps of your youth, and you’ve got this bright har­bor side re­treat in Oak Bluffs. You won’t find a bet­ter spot to step out into nearby nightlife and res­tau­rants or stroll the water­front. $249-$509/night. 70 Lake Ave., Oak Bluffs, sum­mer­cam­pho­tel.com

Edgar­town Inn

This cozy inn has 14 guest rooms and plenty of charm. High sea­son room rates run from $225-$325, but the inn also of­fers last-minute spe­cials (call to in­quire) and mid­week rates (Thurs­day-Sun­day) that won’t take a shark bite out of your sav­ings. 65 N. Wa­ter St., Edgar­town, edgar­town­inn.com

There’s some­thing for ev­ery­one on this “elite” isle. SARAH SWEENEY

ALL PHO­TOS PRO­VIDED

20byNine is one of the is­land’s hippest spots.

The Sum­mer­camp Ho­tel of­fers scenic views of Martha’s Vine­yard.

Garde East of­fers fine din­ing with great views.

Shop away at Is­land Cop­per.

Fill up at The Larder.

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