Molec­u­lar dough­nuts

Former wd~50 chef Wylie Dufresne is back with Du’s Donuts, an all-day break­fast cafe and bar.

Metro USA (New York) - - Things To Do - EVA KIS @thi­siskis [email protected]

Dough­nuts left be­hind their her­itage as the sim­ple, tra­di­tional dessert op­tion when the Cronut Rev­o­lu­tion hit. Pick­ing up right where the “Sex and the City” cup­cake craze left off, they’ve been turned sa­vory, boozy, and even meaty.

So it’s a bit of a sur­prise that it’s chef Wylie Dufresne, known for pop­u­lar­iz­ing molec­u­lar gas­tron­omy at wd~50, bring­ing them back to their roots with Du’s Donuts and Cof­fee.

“It’s some­thing I’ve wanted to do for years,” he says. “My great grand­fa­ther was a dough­nut maker, so it’s al­ways been a part of my fam­ily.”

Open­ing to­day at 107 N. 12th St. in Wil­liams­burg, Du’s is his first ven­ture since clos­ing wd~50 in 2014 and his more ca­sual gas­tropub Alder the fol­low­ing year, then spent some time pop­ping up in kitchens around the city, in­clud­ing at Do­minique Ansel Kitchen.

At Du’s, Dufresne and head baker Colin Kull, for­merly of the West Vil­lage’s clas­sic French bistro Tar­tine, are stick­ing to one style of dough­nut — “I pre­fer cake to yeast,” Dufresne says sim­ply — served in 10 fla­vors: Mex­i­can Hot Cho­co­late, Cream­si­cle, Grape­fruit Chamomile, Pis­ta­chio Pink Lemon­ade, Ba­nana Graham, Malted Cof­fee, Pomegranate Tahini, Peanut But­ter Yuzu and two that will be served hot: Cin­na­mon Ap­ple and Straw­ber­ries and Cream.

If that sounds a bit too old school, remember that Dufresne’s brand of molec­u­lar gas­tron­omy wasn’t for show, but mak­ing his food taste like the best ver­sion of it­self.

“The com­mon thread run­ning through wd~50, Alder and Du’s is cre­ativ­ity,” he ex­plains. “Our ap­proach and method­ol­ogy is per­fectly suited to the process of mak­ing dough­nuts.”

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Du’s Donuts

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