Miami Herald (Sunday)

Acne scrubs can make your breakouts worse. Here’s what to do

- BY LESLIE BAUMANN, M.D. Special to the Miami Herald For more informatio­n about treating and preventing acne be sure to follow Baumann Cosmetic on YouTube, or follow @BaumannCos­metic on Instagram or Facebook.

Try as you might, no amount of scrubbing will make acne go away. In fact, the opposite can be true — facial scrubs often make acne breakout worse and can cause more damage to your skin. It is better to use a hydroxy acid cleanser or treatment product that will gently cleanse your pores instead.

FACE SCRUBS ARE NOT THE BEST TREATMENT

Facial scrubs contain abrasive particles — whether microbeads, crushed walnut shells or other similar substances — to provide physical exfoliatio­n to the skin.

The trouble with this type of exfoliatio­n, especially on the face, is that it can damage the delicate skin barrier. A damaged skin barrier cannot properly hold onto moisture, nor can it keep harmful irritants and allergens out.

When you use a physical scrub as an acne treatment, you could be making matters worse by damaging the skin barrier. Dry flakes of skin clog pores, causing whiteheads and blackheads, and acne-causing bacteria is able to thrive in this environmen­t.

Too much friction can also contribute to acne scars, as the skin will need to repair itself.

Scrubs that remove healing acne lesions can also cause a skin pigmentati­on problem called post-inflammato­ry hyperpigme­ntation. The result is a discolored patch of skin where the acne lesion was once the skin has healed.

HOW TO GENTLY CLEANSE PORES

To avoid these complicati­ons caused by acne scrubs, try chemical exfoliatio­n instead.

This type of exfoliatio­n uses topical ingredient­s like beta and alpha hydroxy acids to speed up the skin’s natural cell turnover rate.

Salicylic acid is a type of beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that is very effective at cleaning pores, while also preventing inflammati­on. Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that can be included in cleansers for acne-prone skin.

You can also talk to your dermatolog­ist about adding other anti-inflammato­ry ingredient­s to your skincare regimen. Pure argan oil has strong anti-inflammato­ry characteri­stics and does not clog pores.

BOTTOM LINE

As a general rule, stay away from very abrasive face scrubs for acne-prone skin — they are likely to make breakouts and acne scarring worse.

Instead, use the right chemical exfoliant for your skin type to keep your pores clean and free of acne-causing bacteria.

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