Miami Herald (Sunday)

Can I get a refund for my river cruise to Ukraine?

- Christophe­r Elliott Travel Troublesho­oter

Q: In mid-February, we booked a Viking River Cruises trip to Ukraine for this summer, beginning in Kiev and continuing throughout the country to Zaporozhye, Odessa, Kherson, Sevastopol and Yalta. Some of our ports of call were in Crimea. We paid for the total cost of our trip, including three nights in Istanbul and an additional five days in Turkey on our own before our return flight.

On Feb. 18, Kiev exploded in flames, as protesters toppled the government. The next day, we contacted Viking and asked what the expectatio­n was for the Ukraine cruise. A representa­tive replied by email that it “should be fine. We will let you know otherwise. No worries.” But on Feb. 21, the United States Department of

State instructed Americans to avoid “all nonessenti­al travel to Ukraine.”

We immediatel­y contacted Viking River Cruises to withdraw our trip reservatio­n because of this warning and our own judgment. Viking suggested we wait it out, but the situation only worsened.

A few days later, we contacted Viking again and explained that, because of the worsening aggression in Ukraine and because of the continuing warning from the Department of State, we were not going to Ukraine. Viking imposed a 15 percent penalty for cancellati­on. We think that, under the circumstan­ces, we should be getting a full refund of the $11,596 we paid. Can you help us? – Pat and Jack Davies, Minneapoli­s

A: It seems highly unlikely that Viking will be sailing to Crimea anytime soon, so I’m not sure why it won’t refund your vacation.

Oh wait, maybe it’s because, buried in the fine print of its terms and conditions (www.vikingcrui­ses .com/terms-conditions /index.html), it specifical­ly says it’s not liable for

Nevada Fall.

As we approach Half Dome, the cables to the summit are visible as a couple of parallel lines, with tiny specks of people making their way up the gigantic smooth hump of white rock. A ranger checks my identifica­tion, gives us a rundown of the rules, and allows us to proceed.

My son and I make a quick gear check before starting the climb in the midday heat. We discover we are running precarious­ly low on water for the estimated two hours of hiking ahead.

After snapping a few photos, we reluctantl­y agree to err on the side of caution, and we carefully find our footing back down the slope. Nearing the bottom of the trail at Vernal Fall, a glint of something catches my eye. Turning, I see a gorgeous rainbow formed in the rising mist and afternoon sun. The bright colors arch across the entire base of the fall. It’s an unexpected and welcome reward for our efforts.

DAY 3: VALLEY HIKES

We spend the day on simple, short hikes in Yosemite Valley. The first is a paved path to Lower Yosemite Falls. We reach the any security problems beyond its control, including a “civil commotion, riot, insurrecti­on, war, government restraint, requisitio­ning of the vessel, political disturbanc­e, acts or threats of terrorism, inability to secure or failure of supplies including fuel, acts of God, or other circumstan­ces beyond our control.”

But does that mean it gets to keep your 15 percent? That appears to be Viking’s position. Again, referring to the company’s terms, if you’re canceling between 120 and 90 days waterfall, which is running at a fraction of its spring and early summer flow powered by mountain snowmelt.

Groups and families circumvent a fence to hold back visitors from the roiling rapids, but on this late summer day, the stream is considerab­ly less threatenin­g. We find a shady spot among boulders to eat our lunches and enjoy peoplewatc­hing as visitors young and old clamber over the before your departure, you have to pay a 15 percent penalty. Eventually, Viking canceled some of its Ukraine itinerarie­s, but it’s not clear if it would have refunded the 15 percent after the fact, or kept it because you decided to cancel first.

This situation could have been prevented by doing a little research before booking your vacation. Political upheavals usually don’t happen without warning, and there were signs that Ukraine might be a problemati­c vacation choice. Although boulders.

As we return to our car, we happen upon a park ranger, who motions us away and says a bear cub is separated from its mother. Complying and turning to leave the area, we catch a glimpse of the cub, a halo of sunlight shining through its fuzzy ears as it forages in the dense brush.

The brief bear sighting made our jaunt in the valley worthwhile, but we found this area of the park few could have predicted what happened after you bought your cruise, a quick check of the State Department website (www .state.gov) might have left you with some reservatio­ns.

Technicall­y, Viking was correct. You canceled, so it was entitled to keep your 15 percent. But let’s not get hung up on technicali­ties here. You weren’t sailing to Odessa this summer, even if the company imposed a 100 percent penalty. I wouldn’t have.

I contacted Viking on your behalf to see if it intended to keep your $1,739, regardless of whether it operated its Ukraine tours this summer. A representa­tive called you, told you that your request had been routed to the wrong desk and agreed to refund the remaining 15 percent.

Christophe­r Elliott is the ombudsman for National Geographic Traveler magazine and the author of “How To Be The World’s Smartest Traveler.” You can read more travel tips on his blog, elliott.org, or email him at celliott@ngs.org. to be hot and crowded. We drive back up to Glacier Point Road, pausing at Washburn Point. We take in the broad side view of Half Dome, as well as Vernal and Nevada falls. It’s as if we are looking at a raised relief map of the previous day’s hike.

Seeing the journey in its entirety leaves us with a hearty sense of accomplish­ment. This has been a long and wild trek.

 ?? PHOTOS BY MARK HUME Chicago Tribune/TNS ?? Hikers brave a ledge thousands of feet above the Yosemite Valley floor to snap photos in Yosemite National Park. The view is along the Sentinel Dome and Taft Point 5-mile loop trail. Photograph made with a polarizing filter on the lens. (Mark Hume/Chicago Tribune/TNS)
PHOTOS BY MARK HUME Chicago Tribune/TNS Hikers brave a ledge thousands of feet above the Yosemite Valley floor to snap photos in Yosemite National Park. The view is along the Sentinel Dome and Taft Point 5-mile loop trail. Photograph made with a polarizing filter on the lens. (Mark Hume/Chicago Tribune/TNS)
 ?? VIKING RIVER CRUISES ?? Viking Surkov sailing near Kizhi Island, Russia. The church is an all-wooden structure called The Transfigur­ation Church (or Preobransk­aya).
VIKING RIVER CRUISES Viking Surkov sailing near Kizhi Island, Russia. The church is an all-wooden structure called The Transfigur­ation Church (or Preobransk­aya).
 ?? ?? The scenery of Yosemite Valley is reflected from the Merced River in Yosemite National Park. Photograph made with a polarizing filter on the lens.
The scenery of Yosemite Valley is reflected from the Merced River in Yosemite National Park. Photograph made with a polarizing filter on the lens.

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