Miami Herald (Sunday)

Alcohol debate drags on, leaving Beach bar owners feeling frustrated

- BY MARTIN VASSOLO mvassolo@miamiheral­d.com

The Miami Beach Commission failed to find consensus on alcohol restrictio­ns that would impact nightlife and businesses in South Beach, and gave preliminar­y approval on Wednesday to contradict­ory proposals.

Commission­ers voted to approve separate pieces of legislatio­n that would simultaneo­usly impose a citywide 2 a.m. alcohol ban with no exceptions and one that would grand

father in existing businesses and allow them to continue selling alcohol until 5 a.m.

The proposals may change dramatical­ly before the final binding vote at a later date.

City Attorney Rafael Paz said commission­ers wouldn’t be able to adopt both proposals.

“You would have to duke it out at second reading,” Paz said.

The proposals were tentativel­y scheduled for a final vote May 25, although Mayor Dan Gelber said he plans to hold a special meeting to consider them all together.

South Beach business owners and representa­tives who attended the meeting said they were frustrated with the confusing process. Commission­ers have debated new alcohol legislatio­n since January.

“It’s hard to keep up with and even harder to explain to staff and concerned customers,” said Joel Stedman, owner of Twist nightclub on Washington Avenue.

Dan Binkiewicz, owner of the Collins Park bar Sweet Liberty Drinks & Supply Company, said,

“It’s like a power struggle to see who’s gonna win.”

Meanwhile, business owners said they are in limbo and the issue may be spooking potential investors who want to open up new bars or restaurant­s.

“The worry and the stress is absolutely exhausting, and unhealthy for all of us in the industry here,” Binkiewicz said.

Troy Wright, the executive director of the Washington Avenue Business Improvemen­t District, said it was frustratin­g to see the businesses on his street face uncertaint­y over whether they will be impacted.

“There doesn’t seem to be any cohesive direction, and that’s what you look for,” he said. “At this point you never know.”

WHAT COMMISSION­ERS VOTED ON

The two citywide alcohol bans that commission­ers approved Wednesday have big difference­s.

The more restrictiv­e ban, sponsored by Commission­er Mark Samuelian, would impose a uniform 2 a.m. ban on alcohol sales citywide with no exceptions.

The other, put forward by Commission­er Kristen Rosen Gonzalez, would grandfathe­r in many existing businesses already licensed to serve until 5 a.m. Larger bars, clubs and restaurant­s with so-called “Neighborho­od Impact Establishm­ent” permits — allowing for occupancy between 200 and 300 people — could keep selling alcohol until 5 a.m.

All other alcoholic establishm­ents could apply for extended-hours approval, if they abide by new performanc­e standards including hiring private security.

The legislatio­n was prompted by a November referendum in which a majority of voters said they would support a 2 a.m. citywide rollback with exceptions.

Both proposals received four of seven votes from the commission. Commission­er Alex Fernandez voted in favor of both of them, although he said he would propose tweaks to exempt large businesses.

Those in favor of the more restrictiv­e ban said voters expect their leaders to roll back alcohol sales. Grandfathe­ring in existing businesses doesn’t go far enough, they said.

But supporters of the more lenient approach noted that the referendum language explicitly called for exceptions.

“At some point we’re going to have to decide if we can get this done and how we’re going to do it,” Samuelian said at the meeting.

David Wallack, owner of Mango’s Tropical Cafe on Ocean Drive, said Rosen Gonzalez’s proposal seemed to be the only path to protect legacy businesses. family-owned company that founded Bulla and Pisco y Nazca. And just as the company has multiple locations of those restaurant­s, its founder says he hopes to expand Havana Harry’s to other spots, as well.

“Havana Harry’s is doing very well and we don’t want to do anything to jeopardize that,” new owner Carlos Centurion said. “I don’t think diners will see anything different, except Arthur and Nieves won’t be there.”

Like the couple, Havana Harry’s was born as Cuban-American fusion.

The Cuban-born Feal was the chef and creativity behind the restaurant, with the support and business savvy of her American husband, Cullen. Her cuisine was food that would appeal not only to Cubans but to people like

“Today revealed a path to success for the nightlife industry while doing their best to build responsibi­lity into the future,” he said.

A third citywide proposal put forward by Gelber, which will be heard with the others at a later meeting, would impose a 2 a.m. ban but create businesssp­ecific and geographic exceptions.

Gelber said the commission’s actions Wednesday ensured that neither of the proposals would die in the legislativ­e process, setting the stage for an eventual “day of reconcilia­tion.”

He said although the commission passed “pretty inconsiste­nt approaches,” he hopes it can find common ground and hammer out a deal that has majority support and honors the will of the voters.

“In order to achieve the possible, I think there are going to have to be some compromise­s that I hope my colleagues will consider,” Gelber said.

Commission­ers on Wednesday also gave preliminar­y approval to neighborho­od-specific alcohol legislatio­n that would affect businesses in the South of Fifth neighborho­od and those on the 41st Street corridor in Mid Beach.

Those areas have been under a 2 a.m. limit since 2016, but some businesses have been allowed to keep serving alcohol later. The commission action Wednesday would remove those exceptions. A final vote for those items is also needed.

A companion item that would have lifted exceptions in the West Avenue neighborho­od failed to pass.

While the goal of the 2 a.m. ban is aimed at curbing disorder and crime in the city, Sweet Liberty’s Binkiewicz said commission­ers have hardly spoken about public safety. It’s all been about blaming bars for crime that happens in the street, he said.

“The bars are the scapegoats because they can’t figure it out,” he said.

Martin Vassolo: 305-376-2071, martindvas­solo her husband. And that’s when Cullen suggested the restaurant’s name should do the same, juxtaposin­g a fictional Harry next to Havana to cultivate an image, like a culinary Panama Jack.

Havana Harry’s is credited as one of the first, if not the first, to create chicken vaca frita, a lighter version of the iconic Cuban fried, shredded beef dish when the first location on Giralda opened in 1995.

“My husband is americano and he loves Cuban food,” Feal told the Miami Herald in 2007. “Between the two of us we came up with the idea of substituti­ng chicken.”

Their dedication to jostling tradition continued at their current location at 4612 LeJeune Rd.

Their luscious crema de malanga soup, topped with crispy chicharron­es, set the standard for decades in Miami. Mariquitas, usually served as round chips, were here instead served cut in lengthwise slices, topped with Spanish sausage and melted cheese.

And recent additions added Peruvian ceviche with aji Amarillo and octopus with garlic shrimp, the menu eager to reflected a changing Miami.

But with three grown daughters, the couple was looking to sell, and Cullen sought out Centurion because he felt his restaurant group — not too big, not too small — could continue the restaurant’s tradition, Centurion said.

“We’re not going to treat it like just another brand,” said Centurion, whose own parents are mixed nationalit­ies, his father Cuban, his mother

American from Connecticu­t.

Centurion said the same staff will remain in place and he met with them April 5 to discuss the sale and tell them about more robust health and vacation benefits they would have under new owners.

As for the menu, he said there will eventually be “small tinkering,” but promises the soul of Harry, whoever he may be, will remain.

Carlos Frías: 305-376-4624, @Carlos_Frías

 ?? MATIAS J. OCNER mocner@miamiheral­d.com ?? Tracy, left, and her friend, Jessica Gooden, from New York, take a selfie while visiting Miami Beach.
MATIAS J. OCNER mocner@miamiheral­d.com Tracy, left, and her friend, Jessica Gooden, from New York, take a selfie while visiting Miami Beach.
 ?? ROBERTO KOLTUN el Nuevo Herald ?? Tostones Rellenos de Vaca Frita at Havana Harry’s.
ROBERTO KOLTUN el Nuevo Herald Tostones Rellenos de Vaca Frita at Havana Harry’s.

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