Miami Herald (Sunday)

Botox in a bottle? Beware of pricey topical peptides marketed to smooth wrinkles

- BY LESLIE BAUMANN, M.D.

There are many topical peptide skincare products that are marketed to mimic the wrinklesmo­othing effects of injectable neurotoxin­s like BOTOX® and Dysport.®

Some of these products claim to relax muscle contractio­ns similar to BOTOX, making them sound like a miracle anti-aging product.

However, the truth is that many of these claims are inflated and some are downright untrue. Before spending your money on expensive “BOTOX in a bottle” products, take a look at some of the science behind why topical peptides can’t provide the same benefits as neurotoxin injections.

PROBLEMS WITH PEPTIDES

One of the biggest problems with the claims that neuropepti­des can work in the same way as neurotoxin­s is that the cell cultures in which they are tested are not the same as human skin. So while peptides can have some beneficial effects when studied in a lab, they present these problems when used in a skincare regimen:

● Peptides are large molecules that cannot effectivel­y penetrate the skin when applied topically.

● Peptides often inactivate other ingredient­s in the product.

● Peptides can reduce the efficacy of other products

● Peptides do not relax facial muscles like botulinum toxins do.

BOTOX ALTERNATIV­ES

If you don’t want or aren’t yet ready for BOTOX, there are a number of topical anti-aging ingredient­s that can help to reduce wrinkles and other signs of aging, although they won’t provide the nearly instant results that injectable neurotoxin­s can. They include:

● SPF — Wearing daily sunscreen is one of the best things you can do to prevent wrinkles.

● Antioxidan­ts —Vitamin C, vitamin E, niacinamid­e and resveratro­l are examples of effective topical antioxidan­ts that work by neutralizi­ng and preventing free radical damage, as well as reducing inflammati­on.

● Retinol - A derivative of vitamin A, retinol is a powerful anti-aging ingredient that boosts collagen and cell renewal.

● Defensins - Defensins are a type of peptide that are much smaller than other peptides, allowing them to reach the deeper layers of your skin, where they stimulate new cell growth.

BOTTOM LINE

Pass on expensive peptide products that claim to work like BOTOX. Instead, try proven anti-aging ingredient­s like antioxidan­ts, retinol and defensins to help slow skin aging.

To stay in the know about the latest skincare research and ingredient­s, follow Baumann Cosmetic on YouTube or @BaumannCos­metic on Instagram or Facebook.

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